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    Food for Thought

    Why American grocery store ham is a gross travesty: And where you can find the true good stuff

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Mar 15, 2014 | 7:05 pm

    What the heck is wrong with American supermarket ham?

    Well, pretty much everything.

    I’ve never been a fan of ham. I love bacon (who doesn’t?), and a crispy-skinned roasted suckling pig is to die for. And those pork tenderloins you can get from Central Market seasoned with Hatch chiles? Check. Or cantaloupe chunks wrapped in paper-thin slices of prosciutto? Check, check.

    But that pale, mushy, almost flavorless spiral thing that comes in a tin can that your relatives serve at Easter? No. Heck no. How is it that we can take a noble pig and turn it into this? Then again we are the country that invented processed white bread, so there you go.

    Apparently ham is like chocolate in Spain. And why not?

    Anyway, with the upcoming Easter holiday and people sending me photos from Spain, (I’ll get to this in a minute) I’ve been thinking about ham a lot. When it comes to breakfast tacos and omelets on weekends I routinely order them with everything BUT ham. And maybe mushrooms. They are both a texture thing and their lesser versions are rarely tasty.

    But American supermarket ham pales (literally) in comparison with the real deal that you find in other countries. Like Spain.

    This summer some friends of mine toured Spain and posted photos on Facebook of . . . ham. Hanging hams in markets, ham dishes and even vending machines that dispense ham snacks. Apparently ham is like chocolate in Spain.

    And why not? Real ham, the kind you find in Europe and some places right here in Houston, is much more delicious than the mass market stuff you’ll find at the supermarket.

    And then my sister just moved to Barcelona. She also sent photos of hams, hams everywhere. In vending machines, in restaurants, even whole legs hanging in grocery stores — glorious, delicious hams everywhere! Not only is Spain the largest producer of cured ham, but its citizens also eat more of it than anyone else.

    A Spanish Food Lesson

    The Spanish people know how to make great ham. Jamón Iberico de Bellota is considered the finest ham in the world, it comes from hogs raised free-range, munching on acorns and herbs. The meat is cured for up to four years before it’s sold for about $150 a pound. Yeah, that’s a heck of a lot more than you would pay for a Honeybaked ham but the difference in taste is amazing.

    The meat is cured for up to four years before it’s sold for about $150 a pound.

    Now if you aren’t heading to Spain before Easter, you can order some fine Spanish hams online from sites like La Tienda, a very drool worthy site. And Central Market usually has some pretty good Spanish hams in the deli section.

    Or, you can go local and stop by Revival Market for some delicious Mangalitsa meat. Co-owner Morgan Weber raises the heritage poodle pigs at his farm in Yoakum,. These pigs taste like pigs should, like they did in the old days before factory farms started turning out super lean, bland tasting pork shot full of hormones and other drugs. Sure, you’ll pay a little more for these piggies, but they’re worth it.

    So this Easter forego the canned ham and get some real pork on the table.

    Do you want that pale, mushy, almost flavorless spiral thing that comes in a tin can that your relatives serve at Easter? No. Heck no.

    canned ham
    SurvilalistsBoards.com
    Do you want that pale, mushy, almost flavorless spiral thing that comes in a tin can that your relatives serve at Easter? No. Heck no.
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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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