Major Chef Shuffle

Major chef shuffle: Houston restaurant power replaces rising star chef with top international prospect

For whatever changes have taken place at Triniti over its three-plus years, the presence of chef/owner Ryan Hildebrand and chef de cuisine Greg Lowry have given the kitchen a decided sense of stability.

That situation changed with Lowry revealing he's left the modern American restaurant for a position as corporate executive chef of Ogden Hospitality, the California-based company behind James Beard Award winner Bradley Ogden's three Houston restaurants: Funky Chicken, Bradley's Fine Diner and the upcoming Pour Society. (The Chronicle first reported Lowry's move.)

"I think Greg and myself both had kind of a feeling that he would always be here," Hildebrand tells CultureMap "You get to a certain point in your career where that’s kind of the goal is to find your forever home kitchen. Greg and I both thought, up until this opportunity presented itself, that this was going to be it."

"Brandon has a little more stylized version of cooking. He’s got a little more international influence just because of his background."

Replacing Lowry will be Brandon Soverall, who's been at Triniti since 2012. Having been born in Trinidad and worked in Germany, the chef brings an international perspective to his cooking that's a departure from Houston-native Lowry.

"Brandon has a little more stylized version of cooking. He’s got a little more international influence just because of his background — where he’s from, where he’s traveled, where he’s worked," Hildebrand says.

"I’m excited to see it, because Brandon has been able to channel that into a practical way of utilizing his skills here."

The Ogden Group describes Lowry's new role as "forging a new culinary identity for Bradley’s Fine Diner and Funky Chicken, meshing the sensibilities of the group led by James Beard Award winning chef, Bradley Ogden, and his own, which offers a lauded knack with local ingredients and regional flavors." The 2014 CultureMap Tastemakers Best Rising Star Chef winner will need all of his considerable skills to turn around the fortunes of Ogden's efforts in Houston, which have mostly been reviled by diners.

Lowry's new menus will begin to roll out by the end of the month, but whether they're enough to save Bradley's Fine Diner from its low sales numbers remain to be seen.

Meanwhile, Soverall steps in for Lowry and will assist Hildebrand in reconcepting his plans for FM903, which Hildebrand previously noted will be built around a version of the hamburger on Triniti's new lunch menu.

"We just finalized some budget questions, and we’ll be green-lighting the architecture firm to continue," Hildebrand says. "They’ve already gotten pretty far along, but now it’s a full court press to get it done."

Brandon Soverall has been promoted to chef de cuisine at Triniti.

Courtesy photo

Brandon Soverall has been promoted to chef de cuisine at Triniti.

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Uptown seafood spot

Lively new seafood restaurant rides into prime Houston location

Buck & Rider seafood restaurant interior

Photo by Kevin Brost, courtesy of Hi Noon Hospitality

Buck & Rider's Scottsdale location offers a preview of the Houston interior

An Arizona-based seafood restaurant has set its sights on Houston. Buck & Rider is the latest addition to Central Park Post Oak, a 17-acre mixed-use development in the Galleria area.

Part of Hi Noon Hospitality, Buck & Rider is a seafood restaurant with three locations in Arizona — Phoenix, North Scottsdale, and Gilbert — with an additional outpost coming soon to Naples, FL. It is known for its lively weekend brunch, daily happy hour, and globally-sourced seafood.

Ranked No. 16 on Yelp’s list of the top 20 oyster houses in America and Canada, meals at Buck & Rider could begin with cold seafood selections such as raw oysters, caviar, snow crab claws, or sushi. Entree choices include options such as shrimp scampi risotto, crab cakes, and daily fresh fish selections. To broaden its appeal, the restaurant also serves Black Angus steaks, pan-roasted chicken, and a burger.

Expected to open in fall 2027, the restaurant will occupy an approximately 9,300-square-foot, jewel box space at the corner of Ambassador Way and Post Oak Boulevard. It joins previously-announced restaurants: The Henry, the “ultimate neighborhood restaurant” from Arizona-based Fox Restaurant Concepts, and Sparrow Italia, an Italian steakhouse from Toca Madera owner Noble 33.

Central Park Post Oak Buck & Rider rendering Buck & Rider will occupy a jewel box space across from The Annie Cafe.Rendering by BOLDRVIZ

“Houston, similar to Phoenix, has a diverse and growing food scene. We’re excited to expand Buck & Rider to another coastal city, following our first opening outside of Arizona in Naples, Florida later this year,” Adam Strecker, CEO and founding partner of Hi Noon Hospitality, said in a statement. “Our expansion to Houston is a strategic growth initiative to bring our proven concept to another market that shares our values of quality, hospitality and coastal culture.”

Announced last year, Central Park Post Oak will consist of three buildings with a combined 1.2 million square feet of office space separated by a three-acre lawn. Houston-based real estate development firm Midway, working with real estate investment firms 3Edgewood and Parkway, is developing the property. Construction is expected to be completed in the fall of 2026 with the restaurants openings to follow.

"Buck & Rider's decision to establish its first Texas location at Central Park Post Oak reinforces the power of pairing premier office tenancy with destination dining," Midway executive vice president Clayton Freels said. "Together with The Henry and Sparrow Italia, Buck & Rider will create a dynamic collection of culinary-forward restaurants that serve office users, visitors, and the broader Uptown community."

Despite the recent closure of The Oceanaire in the Galleria, the area offers a number of seafood options, including Caracol, a Mexican seafood restaurant from James Beard Award winner Hugo Ortega; California-inspired seafood concept Balboa Surf Club; McCormick & Schmick's in Uptown Park; Willie G's Seafood at the Post Oak Hotel; and the recently-renovated steak and seafood restaurant Truluck's.

news-you-can-eat openings