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    What's Eric Eating Episode 88

    Poitín's chef dishes on big changes, plus River Oaks' buzzy new steakhouse

    CultureMap Staff
    Feb 21, 2019 | 4:12 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Dominick Lee joins CultureMap food editor to discuss Poitín Bar & Kitchen. As the restaurant in Sawyer Yards approaches its one-year anniversary, Lee and the restaurant's owner Ian Tucker have made a number of changes in response to customer requests.

    From installing partitions to separate the bar from the dining room to utilizing the space for events (he's looking forward to St. Patrick's Day), Poitín has become a different restaurant than it originally intended to be. No bigger change has come than on the menu, where Lee has moved in a more explicitly Southern direction. Sandler asks him why he made that choice.

    "The best that I always use to explain the change is, we have pork belly that is seasoned with five spice and adobo, which is this Filipino sauce. That dish sold heavily. It's a Southern-inspired dish with these international feels and injections into it," Lee says. "When I realized that was working a lot better and people gravitated towards dishes like this, I decided that I wanted to make Southern food.

    "I believe when chefs focus in on the palate that they come from that they make the best food. It's what you've grown up on. It's the food you resonate with the best. If we do this and give ourselves this identity, then people know who we are instead of people always saying 'Poitín, they make world food.' That was just a constant thing that was driving us nuts."

    The chef discusses other changes at the restaurant, including the new Sunday roast menu inspired by The Exchequer, Tucker's successful bar and restaurant in Dublin. Lee even hints at what sort of restaurant he'd like to open next.

    Prior to Lee's interview, Urban Swank blogger Felice Sloan joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu's plans for Squable, the restaurant they're opening in the former Southern Goods space; popular taco truck La Macro's new home near the Heights; Perry's Steakhouse hiring star chef Rick Moonen; and a deal between craft brewers and beer distributors that could pave the way for to-go sales from breweries. In the restaurants of the week segment, they rave about a recent meal at 2840 at Dukessa, where former Kitchen 713 chef Ross Coleman is catering to an upscale lunch crowd. They also discuss Perry's newly opened location in River Oaks and share some of their favorite dishes from the Rodeo Uncorked! Best Bites competition.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 3 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Poitín's Dominick Lee is this week's guest.

    Dominick Lee
    Trevor Gerland
    Poitín's Dominick Lee is this week's guest.
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    a major award

    Michelin-recognized Houston diner makes Bon Appetit best new restaurants

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 24, 2026 | 11:38 am
    Agnes and Sherman interior
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
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    The hits just keep on coming for Houston restaurant Agnes and Sherman. Bon Appetit has named the Asian American diner as one of its best new restaurants of 2026.

    Published Monday, April 24, the list includes 19 restaurants in 12 states and Washington, D.C. that opened between March 2025 and March 2026. In addition to Agnes and Sherman, Texas is represented by Le Calamar, a French-Texas bistro in Austin.

    Editorial operations manager Kate Kassin hails Agnes and Sherman for signature dishes such as a wedge salad that’s topped with youtiao croutons, lap cheong, and ginger-scallion ranch and the signature cheeseburger fried rice that’s made with shredded iceberg lettuce, two slices of American cheese, sauce, and sesame seeds.

    “It’s a mishmash of two iconic dishes in their own genres but, together, something wholly emblematic of the food that owners Nick Wong and Lisa Lee are putting forth,” Kassin writes.

    Opened in April 2025, Agnes and Sherman puts an Asian spin on the classic American diner. Its received significant regional and national praise, including being named Texas Monthly’s best new restaurant of 2026, as well as earning a James Beard Award finalist nomination for Best New Restaurant and a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Good Morning America recently featured the restaurant during a weeklong series on diners. During the segment, Wong and Lee announced they'd recently become engaged.

    At Le Calamar, Kassin finds first-rate stuffed chicken wings that are cooked on a Japanese binchotan grill. “Likewise, Wagyu hanger steak au poivre boasts a floral sauce that blends black, white, and Tellicherry peppercorns with garlic, brandy, cream, and ginger; it is a dynamic update on the classic,” she writes.

    Le Calamar opened in May 2025 in the former Underdog space. A nominee for best new restaurant in the 2026 CultureMap Austin Tastemaker Awards, the restaurant is known for its chic interior, warm service, and dishes such as gnocchi and and raw oysters with fennel mignonette.

    While Bon Appetit recognizes restaurants are facing challenges ranging from rising costs to AI disruption, the magazine takes an optimistic tone in the article’s introduction.

    “The restaurants we found the most exciting are, of course, delicious, but they were also fearless about challenging the playbooks by betting on community and creativity. These are the traits that help evolve modern American cuisine,” it writes.

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