Eat your veggies

Historic Houston farmers market cultivates fresh Texas-grown produce

A rendering illustrates the changes coming to the Houston Farmers Market.

Courtesy of MLB Capital Partners

Canino Produce Company may have closed, but the Houston Farmers Market will not be without a produce vendor for long. Market owner MLB Capital Partners announced that it has brought on Junior's Produce to provide fruit and vegetables — plus beans, nuts, herbs, preserves, and fresh-squeezed juice — for the market. Junior's will begin operations this Saturday, February 9.

Owner Junior Saldaña brings 30 years of experience in the produce business to his new role. MLB founding partner Todd Mason tells CultureMap that they considered several operators for the role, but that Saldaña emerged as the preferred choice.

“With more than 20 years working at the farmers market, Junior was a natural fit," he says. "He brings a true passion for what he does and the community he serves."

In a release, Saldaña calls the new job a "dream come true" and cites his experience working for both grocery stores and health food stores as giving him the ability to maintain the low prices and gracious service that made Canino's a Houston institution for over 60 years. While the "farmers market" designation is a bit of a misnomer, at least in the sense that it isn't devoted exclusively to Texas crops, Saldaña tells CultureMap he will strive to keep things as local as possible.

“Approximately 60 percent of the produce will be Texas-grown crops such as watermelon, zucchini, yellow squash, mustard greens, collard greens, turnips, cabbage, and eggplant," he says. "Thirty percent will be sourced from California and 10 percent from other states. We will also offer a selection of organic options, including an assortment of leafy greens, carrots, onions, tomatoes, bell peppers, and more.”

Junior's Produce arrives at a time of change for the market. In 2017, MLB purchased the almost 18-acre tract with the plans of transforming into a "destination retail experience offering more diversified products, renovated facilities, and community programming." An animation released last year illustrates some of the additions MLB aims to make to the market, including a fish monger, dedicated children's play area, a restaurant, and better separation for vehicles and pedestrians.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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