No Killen's at HOUBBQ

Houston Barbecue Festival proceeds without the region's best barbecue joint

Houston Barbecue Festival, March 2013, , Crowd goes wild

The Houston Barbecue Festival will still attract a big crowd in 2016, but Killen's Barbecue won't be there.

Photo by Danny Kamin

In just three years, the Houston Barbecue Festival has evolved from an intriguing idea into one of the culinary calendar's most can't miss events. Its status from fledgling upstart to seasoned veteran has been mirrored by its most prominent participant: Killen's Barbecue.

However, it looks like the two have parted ways, at least for the fourth annual event that's being held May 22 at NRG Park. In an email sent Tuesday morning announcing this year's lineup, Killen's Barbecue is not among the list of returning participants. Festival organizers confirmed on Twitter that Killen's wouldn't be back.

When asked if he'd like to offer an explanation for his decision to skip the festival, the usually gregarious Ronnie Killen responded with a polite "No."

The breakup is definitely a shame, since the festival and the restaurant have had a symbiotic relationship throughout their respective histories.

In 2013, Killen's joined the festival as a sponsor, because the Pearland restaurant hadn't opened yet. Attendees got their first taste of Killen's brisket and beef ribs that would go on to earn a prestigious 4.75 rating from Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn and be named by the Food Network as one of the top five barbecue joints in the country.

While the festival's primary draw is the opportunity to sample meat prepared by as many as 24 different barbecue joints from across the Houston area (and a couple of out of town guests), Killen's Barbecue has been first among equals — attracting the longest lines and the most attention.

Of course, change also brings opportunity. Truly devoted barbecue hounds could earn hero status by starting their day at Killen's and then continuing on to the festival. Conversely, with so many barbecue fans at the festival, the line at Killen's could be the shortest it will be all year.

festivals barbecue

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.