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    Culinary delights

    An Austinite learns to love dining out in Houston: Here's her list ofrestaurants (and bars) not to miss

    Layne Lynch
    Jan 1, 2013 | 3:49 pm
    • Philippe Restaurant + Lounge
    • The Pass and Provisions' ricotta, arugula and ham pizza.
    • Pan fish at Underbelly
      Photo by Julie Soefer
    • Braised oxtail at Oxheart
      Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller
    • Giant pretzel at Mongoose and Cobra
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Philippe's Coq au vin Day
    • Hamachi at Uchi
      Photo by Juliainhouston/Twitter
    • The Pass and Provisions
    • Mongoose Versus Cobra interior.
    • Mongoose versus Cobra exterior.

    Editor's Note: Austin food writer Layne Lynch tackled the Houston food scene for CultureMap Austin. Here, she recounts her discoveries.

    When you live in a culinary city as young and creative as Austin, it's easy to forget there are other food hotspots in the world, especially in the Lone Star State.

    I lived in Austin for nearly six years before I started dividing my time between the state capital and Houston. At first, it was difficult to adjust to Houston's culinary scene, mostly because I had been living in the Austin bubble for so long and felt no Houston restaurant could match the likes of Barley Swine, Uchiko, Foreign & Domestic or La Condesa.

    I'm slowly eating my way through Montrose, the Heights, Midtown, Bellaire, Rice Village, and I've become enamored with all that I've come across.

    In the time I've spent in Houston, however, I've learned that my initial assumptions were exceedingly wrong. Though it is quite different in many aspects, Houston's food scene is just as creative and inventive as Austin's.

    I'm slowly eating my way through Montrose, the Heights, Midtown, Bellaire, Rice Village, and I've become enamored with all that I've come across.

    Should you be making your way to Houston anytime soon, consider sampling and savoring a few of these nine hotspots.

    The Pass and Provisions

    This two-in-one restaurant concept comes from the minds of Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan. Provisions, the casual restaurant of the two-part establishment, serves rustic dishes like apple tarte tatin, mussels, and mushroom, truffle and fontina pizza.

    Pass, the fine dining portion of the restaurant duo, opened at the end of November, but has already garnered positive reviews from the likes of Pat Sharpe and numerous Houston restaurant critics. Pass features a different prix-fixe menu every night and only one seating per evening, so you'll need want to plan in advance to attend.

    Sparrow Bar + Cookshop

    I watched Houston chef Monica Pope on Top Chef Masters years ago, but never got around to trying her restaurant t'afia. Over the summer, Pope completely revamped and renovated the entire restaurant, giving it a new name and a fresh concept.

    Known for embracing of farm-to-table cuisine and local ingredients, Pope's newest restaurant, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, is nothing short of astounding, with delicious dishes like steamed mussels, okra with grits and grilled veal sweetbreads.

    Oxheart

    Over the summer, Oxheart was named one of the top 10 best new restaurants in the nation by Bon Appétit magazine, and it's no surprise why. Executive chef Justin Yu has crafted a remarkable menu in his small (34-seat), yet valiant Houston restaurant. I

    highly recommend going in with one or two friends and ordering a handful of plates. I won't recommend any specific dishes though, since everything I've tried thus far has yet to disappoint.

    Underbelly

    Like Oxheart, Underbelly has also been garnering its share of local and national media praise. Houston chef Chris Shepherd draws inspiration from the varied global food cultures rooted throughout Houston to create his dishes, and all his menu items are embedded with a smörgåsbord of delicious flavors and ingredients.

    The menu changes based on seasonality and availability of local ingredients, but I highly recommend the Korean braised goat and dumplings, cornmeal-breaded oysters or seared snapper.

    Latin Bites Cafe

    Latin Bites serves a myriad of cebiches and other seafood-centric offerings. The executive chef, Roberto Castre, recently traveled to Peru and brought back a number of new Peruvian-inspired dishes with him to feature on his new menu.

    Surprisingly, many of the new dishes have Asian-centric ingredients and flavors. My favorites thus far include duck rice, quinoa salad and cebiche de mercado.

    Philippe Restaurant + Lounge

    It's been a long time since I've eaten at a French restaurant I've actually enjoyed. It's not that I have an aversion to French cuisine; in fact, I love French food, but too many restaurants dub themselves French-inspired simply because their cuisine is smeared in butter and cream. Philippe is a different story.

    Each dish I sampled from this sophisticated, elegant menu left me smiling in disbelief, and that rarely ever happens to someone who eats out as much as I do. Every time I was certain I had tasted the best item on the menu, the next course proved otherwise.

    If you're craving French food while you're in Houston, drop whatever you're doing and go to Philippe. I recommend the duck two ways, mushroom ravioli, burgundy beef cheeks and rainbow trout.

    Uchi

    I know, I know. Uchi is already in Austin, so why visit it in Houston? Even I was skeptical when I first heard Uchi was making its way to Houston, wondering "Is it really Uchi without Tyson Cole commanding the kitchen?"

    Uchi Houston, however, has its own unique identity. Your doubts will be put to rest the moment you scarf down dishes like maguro sashimi and goat cheese, the famous jar jar duck, uchiviche and numerous offerings from the daily menu.

    Mongoose Versus Cobra

    I knew I had to include at least one bar on my list, and no bar belongs better than Mongoose Versus Cobra. This elegantly designed industrial bar crafts some of the finest, most creative cocktails I've tasted in a long time.

    The three or four bartenders working at any given day will create most any drink you request, but if you're stumped on what to order, I recommend the house punch, red-headed stranger, or the Jack Lemon.

    If cocktails aren't your cup of tea, there is a great craft beer menu as well. The house pretzel and pickled eggs are worth devouring, too.

    Anvil Bar & Refuge

    Though it is housed in a small building, Anvil's menu of cocktails and brews is rather extensive. Anvil comes from the mind of Bobby Heugel, who has become one of the most respected mixologist/bar entrepreneurs in Houston.

    The five or so cocktails I sipped and sampled were divine. The French 75, The Brave, Pliny's Tonic, and Don't Give Up the Ship are all spectacular, but let your conscience be the guide when perusing Anvil's cocktail menu.

    I've heard the food is also delicious, but I never got around to eating after downing one too many cocktails... if you know what I mean.

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    TK's dinner at Baso

    Star chef Thomas Keller feasts at Michelin-recognized Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 19, 2026 | 4:56 pm
    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon
    Courtesy of Baso
    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

    It isn’t every day that the dean of American chefs dines at a Houston restaurant, but that’s what happened Sunday, October 18 when culinary superstar Thomas Keller visited Baso in the Heights.

    Best known for his restaurants The French Laundry in Yountville, California and Per Se in New York City, both of which hold three Michelin stars, Keller has won multiple James Beard Awards, including the highly covered prizes for Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurateur. The French Laundry held the No. 1 spot in the World’s 50 Best in both 2003 and 2004. Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table profiled him in a 2025 episode.

    Baso co-executive chef Max Lappe tells CultureMap that Charles Carroll, executive chef of the River Oaks Country Club, sent an email to let the restaurant know that Keller wanted to visit while he was in town.

    “I slapped my laptop shut and my heart sank into my ankles,” Lappe says “I felt like I was going to collapse. It was a feeling I rarely experience, just the mail, how much excitement it brought me.”

    “I didn’t believe it for the first 10 seconds. How could this be real? He’s the most important American chef of all time,” Baso owner and co-executive chef Jacques Varon adds. “I’ve had people I admire and respect greatly dine with us but never someone like this come into the restaurant.”

    Rather than throw the restaurant’s entire menu at Keller and his friend, the chefs let him order most of his meal, including sweet shrimp, pepper toast, okra, maitake mushroom, endive salad, and the signature pork chop with pork jowl condiment. The chefs sent Keller two roasted oysters — he liked them enough order to two more — and a tomato dish. He had a slice of Basque cheesecake for dessert.

    “We discussed, how do we take care of him, especially for someone who’s traveled so much and eaten at the best restaurants in the world,” Lappe says. “I imagine there’s — maybe burden isn’t the right word — but it can be selfish to take over a meal and feed someone like your grandma tried to feed you.”

    According to Lappe and Varon, Keller was an excellent guest. He posed for pictures with the staff (see above) and praised the experience. The staff signed a Baso hat as a souvenir.

    Keller’s visit is only the latest accolade for Baso, a live fire restaurant that applies Basque culinary techniques to Texas ingredients. In the spring, Varon and Lappe earned their first James Beard Award semifinalist nomination in the Emerging Chef category. More recently, not only did Baso retain its Recommended status in the Michelin Guide, Varon and Lappe earned the Young Chef Award. Still, Keller’s compliments moved both chefs.

    “As best as you can do when Thomas Keller is in your restaurant, I was pretty calm and collected,” Lappe says about the moment when he delivered one of Keller’s dishes to his table. “I could feel my lip quivering. As soon as I walked back to the kitchen, I walked into a closet and had to let it out a little bit.”

    “He told Gus [Valenga, one of Baso’s captains], ‘I didn’t know restaurants like this exist in Houston,’” Varon says. “That sent me to the moon. That’s one of the most complimentary things I’ve ever been told in my life.”

    Thomas Keller Baso Max Lappe Jacques Varon

    Courtesy of Baso

    Edwin Castro, Fernando Acosta, Max Lappe, Thomas Keller, Jacques Varon, Aaron Gutierrez, Adam Blodgett, and Sam Ainslie.

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