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    Reviewing Parts Unknown Houston

    Anthony Bourdain dispels Houston stereotypes, adds some surprises, in Parts Unknown episode

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 30, 2016 | 10:05 pm
    Anthony Bourdain Plant It Forward
    Anthony Bourdain with Congolese farmers at Plant It Forward in Montrose.
    Photo by a CultureMap reader

    On Sunday night, Anthony Bourdain, the chef-turned author and traveler, debuted the Houston episode of his highly-rated CNN show Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown.

    Thanks to social media and a few preview clips, we’ve known for awhile some of the places Bourdain visited during his week-long stay in June: dinner at the Plant It Forward farm in Montrose with Congolese refugee farmers; lunch at acclaimed Indo-Pak restaurant Himalaya; a Bollywood dance party at Keemat Grocers; and barbecue at Burns BBQ followed by a slab party with Houston hip hop artist Slim Thug.

    Still, the episode held a few surprises that the previews only hinted at in the form of a quinceanera in Pasadena, a trip to a Lee High School, time with a Vietnamese shrimper in Palacios, and a cricket match in Richmond.

    From the beginning of the episode, Bourdain confronted and dismissed his stereotypes about the city he visited. Instead, he showed the diverse array of immigrants who have come to the city over the last 40 years, and let them tell stories about how they’ve been welcomed into the community.

    “Texas, Houston in particular, is a very different place than you might imagine from the stereotypes and the sound bites of its national political figures,” Bourdain says in a voice over. “Immigrants, refugees and non-white Americans have been transforming the city, the food, and culture of Houston for years.”

    On Parts Unknown, Houston becomes the ultimate melting pot, a place that accepts people from all over the world and makes them feel welcome. Nowhere is this point driven home more clearly than when Bourdain visits Lee High School with principal John Trinh and sits in on an ESL class where the day’s lesson is learning introductions with an emphasis on proper handshakes. Then Trinh hosts Bourdain at his home in Pearland, where Trinh’s extended family serves an only-in-Houston smorgasboard of Vietnamese food, Salvadoran tamales and pupusas, and, of course, Cajun-Viet crawfish.

    Almost as interesting as where Bourdain went and whom he interacted with are the people and places that are missing from the episode. Even people from outside the city who have been paying attention to some of the national food coverage lavished on Houston over the last year by writers like Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema or Eater’s Bill Addison might be surprised not to see Underbelly chef-owner Chris Shepherd appear on the screen. Those looking for Bourdain to dine on the tasting menu at Oxheart or validate Anvil’s place in the global cocktail movement might be disappointed by these omissions, but the high-profile place didn’t fit with the story he wanted to tell.

    Rather than seek out the chefs who are interpreting the food created by Houston’s immigrant communities, Bourdain went to the immigrants themselves. In doing so, he saw a side of Houston that even most residents don’t see.

    Of course, Bourdain has a political point to make, too. With the presidential election barely a week away, his final voiceover weighs in on the current debate over immigration.

    “Some people say make America great again. I say American was great all along,” Bourdain states. “Some of us just forgot why. It’s great because your grandfather and my grandfather and just about everybody’s damn grandfather or great-grandfather crammed, snuck, bought or was dragged onto a boat and allowed themselves eventually to dream. You still can. There’s still room. In some places in America, apparently, you are still welcome. Welcome, stranger. This land is your land.”

    No matter what a person might think about that statement, all people should be able to agree that the city comes off very well in the episode. Starting Monday, expect Burns BBQ and Himalaya to get a whole lot busier.

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    Movie Review

    Safe cracking takes center stage in new heist movie Tuner

    Alex Bentley
    May 29, 2026 | 3:14 pm
    Leo Woodall in Tuner
    Photo courtesy of Black Bear
    Leo Woodall in Tuner.

    Of all the ways that movies depict people trying to steal money and other valuables, safe cracking is among the least exciting. By design, it’s a laborious process that only those with a very certain set of skills can do. While clever editing and the right music can enhance scenes of safes being cracked, there’s a reason that the method is among the least used in heist films.

    In the new film Tuner, Niki (Leo Woodall) has a job and a condition that just happens to lend itself well to committing that specific crime. He works as an apprentice piano tuner for Harry (Dustin Hoffman), usually doing the hard work while Harry schmoozes the client. Niki is well-suited for the job because he has a rare condition called hyperacusis, which makes him both sensitive to loud noises and able to hear subtle things that others cannot.

    When he runs across a trio of criminals trying to break open a safe at a house where he’s tuning a piano, he helps them more out of frustration than avarice. But when Harry goes into the hospital and racks up huge bills, Niki decides to join the group to make some quick money. They soon want more than he’s willing to give, and he must find a way to extricate himself from them without losing himself completely.

    Written and directed by documentary filmmaker Daniel Roher (making his narrative feature debut) and co-written by Robert Ramsey, the film has a nice pace to it despite there being relatively little action. Roher and Ramsey spend the first third or so establishing Niki, Harry, and Harry’s wife Marla (Tovah Feldshuh) as characters, letting the audience understand their relationships and how they interact with each other.

    The time they devote to the personal storytelling pays dividends when Niki starts to descend into crime, as his divided loyalties — not to mention the danger of the thefts — insert tension into the plot. That stress is heightened even more when Niki starts a relationship with piano student Ruthie (Havana Rose Liu), as getting closer to her necessitates a series of lies.

    There comes a point, though, where the plot stagnates to a degree. Niki’s end goal, if he has one, is never clear, and it’s obvious that it’s only a matter of time before things start to fall apart. After starting strong in their character development, Roher and Ramsey take shortcuts as the film rushes toward its conclusion. This is most notable in a weird argument scene between Niki and Ruthie that comes out of nowhere and seems to serve no purpose in the story.

    Woodall, who had a memorable turn in season 2 of The White Lotus, is on the cusp of breaking out, and this understated-but-compelling lead role should help him become an even bigger name in Hollywood. Hoffman has a small role, but he remains as interesting as ever despite the lack of screentime. Liu (Bottoms) is also an up-and-coming actor who should become a star with more roles like this one.

    Tuner is a low-key thriller that succeeds because of the way the filmmakers approach the under-used method of robbery. Even if it doesn’t quite reach its potential, the film maintains a high quality throughout thanks to its storytelling and acting.

    ---

    Tuner is now playing in theaters.

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