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    What's Eric Eating Episode 124

    Get to know a red-hot Houston restaurateur, plus 3 can't-miss Heights spots

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 19, 2019 | 11:21 am

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Sambrooks Management Company founder Michael Sambrooks and director of operations Steve Breaker join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss their busy 2019. Since acquiring three restaurants from Cherry Pie Hospitality in September 2018, Sambrooks has made changes at Sam's Fried Chicken & Donuts, converted Star Fish into 1751 Sea & Bar, and opened Tex-Mex restaurant Candente in Montrose.

    The conversation primarily focuses on 1751 and Candente, the new two restaurants Sambrooks and his team opened this year that made CultureMap's list of 2019's best new restaurants. Sambrooks and Breaker share their thoughts behind the development of both menus and discuss some of the challenges they've faced along the way — from the departure of culinary director Lyle Bento to a problematic air conditioning system at Candente.

    Still, both restaurants have been successful enough that Sambrooks acknowledges he plans to turn his attention soon to Pi Pizza, which he plans to rebrand as DoBro’s Pizza and Sandwich. Sandler asks about opening additional locations of Candente, and Sambrooks acknowledges it's something he's thinking about.

    "The Pit Room I don't think could be recreated. It's got that location with the bar next to it and the big patio. 1751 is our high-end flagship; you want that to be a destination," Sambrooks says.

    "When we looked at Candente, we think that could translate to several different neighborhoods within the loop and maybe, potentially beyond that one day. I think it would be the concept we would choose to expand if possible, if the right opportunity came along."

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-hosts Becky Masson and Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Asian smokehouse Loro opening in The Heights; International Smoke closing in CityCentre; the owners of Doris Metropolitan's plans to open a modern Israeli restaurant in Rice Village; and chef Richard Knight's departure from Atlas Diner at Bravery Chef Hall.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, they discuss visits to three establishments that opened recently in and near The Heights: Preslee's Southern Good Eatery, Handies Douzo, and Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 2 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Handies Douzo is the restaurant of the week.

    Handies Douzo
    Handies Douzo/Facebook
    Handies Douzo is the restaurant of the week.
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    Anthony's song

    Prolific Houston pizza chef fires up a new Italian restaurant in River Oaks

    Eric Sandler
    May 8, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Anthony's New York Italian interior
    Courtesy of Anthony's New York Italian
    Anthony's New York Italian is now open near Central Market.

    One of Houston’s most prolific pizzaiolos has quietly opened a new restaurant in River Oaks. Anthony Russo, founder of Russo’s New York Pizzeria, has opened Anthony’s New York Italian in the former Pie Tap Pizza space at 3748 Westheimer.

    While Russo is known primarily for his fast casual restaurants that sling New York-style pies, Anthony’s New York Italian is both more personal and more upscale. It takes inspiration from his Italian heritage — his father grew up in Naples and his mother grew up in Sicily — as well as Russo’s Italian Restaurant, the Galveston eatery his parents operated for almost 20 years.

    “We had veal, lobster, Gulf snapper, a lot of nice, classic dishes. There’s where I grew up in the kitchen,” Russo tells CultureMap. “I was always around fine dining restaurants. My mom and dad used to bring in chefs from Italy. They were excellent chefs. That’s what we had in Galveston for 18 years.”

    With Russo’s at more than 50 locations, the time felt right to open a more upscale concept. Partially inspired by New York restaurants such as Carbone and Quality Italian, Russo thinks Houstonians will appreciate his high-end take on Italian American fare.

    The menu includes lobster fra diavolo, a 24-ounce prime porterhouse, bone-in veal parmesan, frutti di mare (shellfish with tomato sauce over pappardelle), and more. In addition, the dish utilize Italian olive oil that’s pressed by one of the chef’s friends. Anthony’s also makes all of its doughs, sauces, and sausage in house.

    Of course, Russo is making pizza, too. They’re baked in imported Italian ovens using slightly different dough and sauce recipes — along with imported mozzarella and burrata — than his more casual restaurants.

    And, no, Russo isn’t concerned that a pizzeria lasted less than a year in the space.

    “I feel confident this location is going to be a killer for us. We make homemade pasta on site here, fresh from scratch.” he says. “We're bringing fresh lobster. We're bringing fresh clams. We got a nice veal chop. I mean, these are all chef-selected ingredients. I don't think anybody's doing that in town right now.”

    The restaurant is still in such early days that it doesn’t have its own website or social media pages yet. For now, diners can follow Russo on Instagram for updates.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Anthony Russo (@chef_anthony_russo_)


    Anthony's New York Italian is open for dinner Monday-Thursday beginning at 4 pm. It’s open for lunch and dinner on Friday and Saturday beginning at 11 am. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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