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    Foodie News

    New downtown Mexican restaurant brings in hot chef with sneak peek this weekend

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 10, 2013 | 9:45 am

    In August, members-only club The Marque announced it had hired Randy Rucker protege Ben Rabbani to transform its staid dining room into a destination for local, seasonal cuisine. Apparently, that experiment is over.

    Today, El Big Bad, the big brother to Mexican-inspired gastro-cantina El Gran Malo set to open soon in the former Cabo space in downtown Houston, reveals that it has hired Rabbani as its full-time executive chef. He'll take over for Rucker, who's been working as a consulting chef and will stick around for the first month or so that the restaurant is open.

    Although it won't open until November, diners can get a sneak peek of El Big Bad as part of Saturday's A Night at Market Square.

    Co-owner Lea McKinney acknowledges that Rabbani hasn't cooked Mexican cuisine professionally, but she says that he "grew up with a lot of it. He's very familiar with the cuisine."

    As for what appealed to him about the job, McKinney says that Rabbani will have "a lot of freedom to do fun stuff here . . . He fits with us very well."

    El Gran Malo hired chef Greg Lowry, who's now Ryan Hildebrand's right hand man at Triniti, to develop its menu but has never employed a full-time executive chef. McKinney explains that she and partners Steve and Shaun Sharma decided to bring Rabbani in because El Big Bad is a bigger space that "doesn't have the limitations" of EGM's smaller kitchen. As a result of having the extra space, McKinney says that EBB will be "a lot more dynamic and more interesting" in terms of its food offerings.

    Although it won't open until November, diners can get a sneak peek of El Big Bad as part of Saturday's A Night at Market Square. The upstairs will be open from 6 p.m. until 8 p.m. with an offering of three basic dishes and a handful of cocktails.

    "It will definitely be a challenge," McKinney predicts, but one that Houston diners are hoping El Big Bad is able to meet.

    Rabbani will be taking over for Randy Rucker, who's been developing the menu. They worked together at Bootsie's Heritage Cafe and Rainbow Lodge.

    News_Randy Rucker_chef_Bootsie's Heritage Cafe
      
    Randy Rucker Greens and Beans/Twitter
    Rabbani will be taking over for Randy Rucker, who's been developing the menu. They worked together at Bootsie's Heritage Cafe and Rainbow Lodge.
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    BA hearts HOU

    Houston haunt earns only Texas spot on Bon Appètit best new bars list

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 2, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Lee's bar interior
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Lee's is one of America's best new bars, says Bon Appètit.

    A Houston bar is basking in the national spotlight. Bon Appètit has named Lee’s in Rice Village to its list of The 9 Best New Bars of 2025.

    Published last week, the list spotlights new bars in cities ranging from cocktail staples like New York and New Orleans to an establishment in Madison, Wisconsin that served a menu inspired by the Great British Bake-Off. “These places remind us why we go out in the first place: not just to drink, but to drink in community, creativity, and craft,” the magazine writes.

    Lee’s is the only Texas establishment to make the list. Open since January, it’s the companion cocktail bar to Milton’s, the nostalgic Italian-American restaurant that Local Foods Group opened last year. Just as Milton’s is named for LFG owner Benjy Levit’s father, Lee’s is named for his mother. The bar earned a CultureMap Tastemaker Award Bar of the Year nomination for its ability to blend a quirky cocktail menu with a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

    In its entry, Bon Appètit recognizes Lee’s for cocktails such as the Black Hat, a black Manhattan that’s also black in color courtesy of cuttlefish ink, and the Pale Blue Eyes, an Old Fashioned that’s blue thanks to a clarified blue corn syrup. “Much of the inspiration at Lee’s is understated, from drink names that reference the Velvet Underground to complex mixology,” the magazine adds.

    “I am extremely honored for Lee’s to be recognized on such a short, meaningful list by Bon Appètit,” Levit said in a statement. “The article describes a great bar as being about ‘mood, memory, effortless hospitality, and a sweet suspension of time.’ It’s everything we strive for at Lee’s and across all Local Foods Group concepts.”

    Shortly before Bon Appètit named Lee’s to its list, the bar made a quiet change in personnel when director of bars Máte Hartai left the company in mid-May. In his place, the company has named former March bartender Chad Matson as the bar manager for both Lee’s and Milton’s.

    “The LFG team is grateful for [Hartai’s] contributions and wishes him the best in his future endeavors, which will without a doubt be fun and creative,” a representative tells CultureMap.

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    Family friendly Garden Oaks restaurant coming soon to Magnolia

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