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    Italy in 10 Days

    36 hours in Rome: Crowds, Colosseum, Vatican visit and one great dinner

    Jane Howze
    Sep 25, 2014 | 11:55 am

    Last year, my husband and I flew around the world in 17 days, visiting Dubai, the Maldives, Phuket and ending with a flourish for New Year’s in Sydney, Australia. Not exactly relaxed, but working gals need to catch as catch can. If one can traverse the world in 17 days, Italy in 10 days should be a snap. It had been 30 years since I visited Venice, Rome and the Amalfi coast, and I had never visited Tuscany. So off we went.

    Buono Giorno Rome

    With only 36 hours in Rome, we had to pick our spots. Fortunately, our hotel was near the Spanish Steps and shopping heaven. Unfortunately, our hotel was what could best be called “tired.” Note to self: Be wary of hotel sites that trumpet "old world charm."

    Note to self: Be wary of hotel sites that trumpet "old world charm."

    I am not that picky about hotel rooms for business travel, but for vacations I want a big enough room so I don’t find myself wishing I were home instead. I want a room where my husband and I both can stand up at the same time. Sadly our hotel disappointed on both counts.

    Window shopping in Rome for the fashion minded is a feast for the eyes—the Italians know how to dress—but on closer examination there is little you can find that would not be cheaper in the United States. Moreover, with temperatures in the 80s, the heavy winter coats that are part of the fall line offered by the leading designers—well, we just didn’t feel the love or have the desire.

    Doing battle at the Colosseum

    Our first stop was the Colosseum, which has undergone extensive restoration since my last visit when it was covered with scaffolding and green, smog-protecting netting. Located in the center of Rome, the Colosseum is the ancient world's largest amphitheater and has been estimated to hold at least 50,000 people. And from the looks of the line to buy tickets (about $15 a piece) 50,000 people were there.

    Once in the Colosseum, we realized we had made a mistake by not booking a tour, of which there were hundreds. With no guide we only walked around and gazed at the admittedly beautiful site — that is until the heavens opened with a Texas style downpour, complete with thunder and lightning. We discovered that the Colosseum has a lot in common with modern stadiums. There just isn’t the capacity to provide cover from the elements for everyone. With that, off we went.

    Vatican, Inc.

    Vatican City, its own country, is about the size of Central Park. However those without citizenship or papal permission are limited to the Vatican Museum which comprises over 50 galleries containing the Roman Catholic Church's impressive art collection amassed over the centuries. Tours culminate at the Sistine Chapel with its famous ceiling painted by Michelangelo. Heeding the advice of friends we booked a tour in advance. There are so many tours from which to choose. Figuring this would be a once in a lifetime experience, we were drawn to the "VIP: tour that said “visit the Sistine Chapel alone, after the crowds have departed, with your own tour guide….”

    As we waited in front of the entrance with literally thousands of others for our 2 p.m. appointment, I felt a sense of “What are we getting ourselves into?” Our guide arrived holding a sign with our name and I breathed a sigh of relief. She quickly whisked us in the door and up an elevator to the first floor. She then suggested we buy postcards to send to our friends that would show the Vatican postmark.

    In nearly every room there was a retail area selling pictures of the Pope and other spiritual souvenirs.

    We then proceeded on the tour, which was the exact same tour that anyone else would have except that our guide was one of only 280 approved Vatican guides with a vast array of knowledge about the art, the Vatican’s history and a passion for the church — all things you want in a guide. One of the most important things we learned is that 25,000 tourists visit the Vatican Museum every day, and it felt like we were all crammed in the un-air conditioned corridors housed with admittedly breathtaking art. In nearly every room there was a retail area selling pictures of the Pope and other spiritual souvenirs.

    In short, the Vatican tour is a cash cow for the Church.

    When we finally arrived at the Sistine Chapel, we asked if we would be there alone and our guide replied that of course, she would leave us alone to spend as much time as we wanted. What she didn’t say was that there would be all of the other groups crammed in as well. For those of us who are claustrophobic, the beauty and spiritual wonder were hard to absorb in the jammed packed chapel. And those of us hoping for a moment of spiritual contemplation were jarred as people whispered (OK, talked) loudly, babies cried and a stern voice admonished everyone: “Silencio.”

    Our guide was to meet us outside the chapel, yet when we exited, all too quickly, she was nowhere to be found. We saw two exits, chose one and started walking. We never saw her again, though to be fair, she did text us asking where we were. How she thought she would find us in the throng of exiting masses I don't know. In retrospect I’m glad we saw the Vatican. I now have a desire to see a good documentary on it as well as the Coliseum in the comfort of my home without the crowds…and with A/C.

    Far from the crowd

    Maybe it was the jet lag, the crowds or that everyone was a tourist, but we were “Romed out" after only 24 hours. Fortunately, a client who works for an Italian company suggested his favorite restaurant. Da Felice, located in a suburban neighborhood, is way off the tourist path.

    We spent time walking the neighborhood, greeting the residents and envisioning the way locals live. There was an ambience and grace that we simply did not find among the crush of tourists. We were delighted that we were the only Americans in this family run restaurant with a daily changing menu. We enjoyed a sumptuous meal of Spaghetti Carbonara with a local brunello, polished off with the best tiramisu I ever had. All was right with the world.

    We left Rome determined to return — but next time not stay at the Spanish Steps and find a non-tourist experience.

    Crowds waiting to get into the Vatican museum.

    Jane Howze trip to Rome September 2014 Waiting to get into Vatican museum
    Photo by Jane Howze
    Crowds waiting to get into the Vatican museum.
    unspecified
    news/travel

    Get your kicks

    Texas is just the start of the ultimate Route 66 road trip

    Associated Press
    Apr 9, 2026 | 9:30 am
    Cadillac Ranch
    Cadillac Ranch/ Facebook
    Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is an essential stop on a Route 66 road trip.

    ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (AP) — There are faster ways to get from Chicago to Los Angeles, but none have the allure or cultural cachet of Route 66.

    To John Steinbeck, it was the Mother Road that led poor farmers from Dust Bowl desperation to sunny California. To Native Americans along the route, it was an economic boon that also left scars. To Black travelers, it offered sanctuary during segregation. And to music fans, it was the place to get their kicks.

    Route 66 marks its 100th anniversary this year. Despite losing its status decades ago as one of the nation’s main arteries, people from around the world still flock to it to take perhaps the quintessential American road trip and soak in its neon lights, kitschy motels and attractions, and culinary offerings.

    The dream
    Route 66, which runs for roughly 2,400 miles (3,860 kilometers) from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica, California, was stitched together a century ago from a collection of Native American trading routes and old dirt roads with the goal of linking the industrial Midwest to the Pacific coast.

    Oklahoma businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the Father of Route 66, saw it as more than just a way to cross the country efficiently. It was a chance to connect rural America and create new pockets of commerce.

    Avery knew the number 66 would be ripe for marketing and could be seared into drivers' minds, and he was right: Route 66 has been immortalized in movies, books, including Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath and Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, and songs such as Bobby Troup's “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66,” which served as an anthem for post-World War II optimism and mobility.

    If you’ve ever planned to motor west and take the highway that’s the best, the year of Route 66's 100th anniversary just might be the time.

    Many stretches of Route 66 may be littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but there's still much history and magic to be discovered. With each stop the wheels of imagination turn, leaving travelers to contemplate what life was like for the people and communities that made the road hum.

    Here are essential stops and sights to see on a road trip along historic Route 66.

    Route 66 Somewhere along Route 66. Photo by Morten Andreassen on Unsplash

    Illinois
    Chicago has long been one of the country’s economic engines, with access to international waters and railroads that linked all corners of the country.

    For some travelers, the journey is fueled more by the food than the scenery, and there’s plenty to choose from — slices of homemade pie, thick shakes, cheeseburgers and an assortment of fried delights.

    The Cozy Dog Drive In in Springfield, the Illinois capital, is one of the many diners that sprang up along Route 66, and its breaded hot dogs on a stick have stood the test of time. Third-generation owner Josh Waldmire says the recipe is a secret.

    Waldmire’s grandfather, Ed, saw the concoction’s potential as fast and convenient road food and developed a system for frying the dogs vertically.

    Missouri
    Route 66 has its share of twists and turns, and it’s no surprise that a highway famous for its quirky roadside attractions would cross the nation’s most famous river on one of the more peculiar bridges known to modern engineering.

    As the road nears St. Louis, the mile-long (1.6-kilometer-long) Chain of Rocks Bridge hovers more than 60 feet (18 meters) above the Mississippi River.

    Engineers eventually built a straighter, higher-speed option, and a poor resale market spared the original bridge from the scrap heap. Today it’s reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

    A median in Missouri is home to St. Robert Route 66 Neon Park, which features orphaned neon signs that once beckoned travelers to stop at certain sites and businesses along the highway. Often handcrafted, they weren’t only markers for motels, cafes and gas stations, but were also folk art and symbols of local culture.

    Kansas
    The Sunflower State hosts only a short stretch of Route 66, but it packs a punch with the Kan-O-Tex Service Station in Galena. A classic example of roadside fare, the station served as inspiration for the animated 2006 Pixar film Cars.

    Director John Lasseter and his crew took road trips along the route, digging into history and looking for elements that could bring the project to life. It was in Galena where they spotted the old boom truck that served as the basis for the character Tow Mater. The plot wasn’t far off, as so many once bustling towns — like the fictional Radiator Springs — nearly faded away after being bypassed by an interstate.

    Kansas also is home to the Brush Creek Bridge, otherwise known as the Rainbow Bridge. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of few remaining examples of the concrete arched bridges designed by James Barney Marsh.

    Route 66 Neon signs along Route 66. Photo by Mick Haupt on Unsplash

    Oklahoma
    There was a real danger for some who traveled the road, particularly Black motorists passing through inhospitable and segregated areas during the Jim Crow era. The Green Book — a guide first published in 1936 by Victor Hugo Green — listed hotels, restaurants and gas stations that would serve Black customers.

    The Threatt Filling Station near Luther wasn’t listed in The Green Book, but it was a safe haven — not only for getting fuel, but for barbecue and baseball. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was the only known Black-owned and operated gas station along Route 66.

    Route 66 is littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but one example of the highway’s resilient spirit stands tall in Sapulpa, near Tulsa. The restored Tee Pee Drive-In Theater offers a step back into the 1950s, when the booming car culture helped spawn thousands of drive-in theaters nationwide.

    Built in 1949, the drive-in officially opened in the spring of 1950 with a screening of John Wayne’s “Tycoon.” It was one of the few drive-ins at the time to have paved pathways. Over the years, it survived a tornado, a fire that destroyed the concession stand and break-ins before being shuttered for more than 20 years. It reopened in 2023.

    route 66 historic district Get your kicks on Route 66 in Amarillo. Photo courtesy of Visit Amarillo

    Texas
    Blink and you might miss it, but a stop at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is a must for any Route 66 journey. For decades, visitors have been spray-painting the 10 vintage Cadillacs at the site and mulling the transitory nature of time as Bruce Springsteen did in his 1980 song of the same name.

    It’s not a ranch, but rather a public art installation created in 1974 by the art and architecture collective Ant Farm. At first, the cars — which were half-buried front-down at a 60-degree angle — were used for target practice. Others would scratch their initials into the metal. The spray painting started later.

    Arrive in Adrian and you’re halfway through your trip. Steps from a white line marking the midpoint of Route 66 is the Midway Cafe, where the “ugly pies” are anything but.

    If you’re still hungry, head back to Amarillo for a 72-ounce (2 kilogram) steak and all the sides at The Big Texan. If you can finish the meal in an hour or less, it's free.

    New Mexico
    More than half of Route 66 cuts through sovereign Native American lands, often tracing routes used by tribes long before settlers arrived. Much like the railroad in the 1800s, the highway opened the door to a new era of commerce, but it also fueled stereotypes about cultures along the way.

    There are still faded and crumbling references to tipis and feathered headdresses at some stops along the historic highway. The symbols were easily appropriated for marketing by roadside vendors but weren't indicative of the separate and distinct Native American cultures in the area.

    Today, tribes are telling their own stories and showcasing their creations, whether it be pottery, fruit pies or poems.

    Albuquerque boasts the longest intact urban stretch of Route 66. Those 18 miles (29 kilometers) pass through several neighborhoods and business districts, from historic Old Town to Nob Hill.

    Some of the old motor lodges and neon signs along what is now Central Avenue have been restored. Other signs are being reimagined using hubcaps, elaborate lowrider-inspired paint jobs and New Mexico’s classic yellow and red license plates in a nod to the car culture that is very much still alive in the city.

    Arizona
    Musician Jackson Browne was taking his own road trip in the early 1970s when his car left him stranded in Winslow. The experience inspired the lyrics to the Eagles’ hit “Take it Easy.” But it’s certainly not the only song that is a must-have for a Route 66 playlist.

    Bobby Troup created a classic American road anthem in the 1940s with “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” Nat King Cole, Chuck Berry, The Rolling Stones and Depeche Mode carried it through the decades, each covering the song with their own flair.

    While standing on a corner in Winslow, don’t be surprised if someone saunters up with a guitar and starts strumming favorites from their own road trip playlist.

    Before leaving the state, the one-time gold mining town of Oatman features a Wild West atmosphere, daily staged shootouts and beloved burros. Oatman was a destination along one of the original alignments of Route 66 via a treacherous path through the Black Mountains, but it was later bypassed as part of improvements made in the 1950s.

    California
    Once a desert oasis, Roy’s Motel & Café in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark. The towering neon sign is one of the most photographed spots along the road. Inside, foreign currency left by international visitors lines one wall. Across the street, a clothing post decorated with shoes, shirts and other items juts up from the desert floor.

    This stretch of the highway through the Mojave Desert offers a special kind of solitude. The pavement gets rough in spots and the landscape takes charge, showing off Joshua trees, wide-open spaces and the remnants of ancient volcanic activity.

    Much of the area is undeveloped, meaning it looks a lot like it would have when Route 66 was commissioned in 1926.

    After making it through oft-congested Los Angeles, the iconic Santa Monica Pier marks the end of the line, and it’s nothing short of a perpetual party with a steady stream of spectators and performers. Although many stretches of Route 66 have lapsed into decay, the breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean are a reminder of the pursuits made possible by the road over the last century.

    american road tripneon signsroad triproute 66
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