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    Big Barbecue Win

    Houston's best barbecue makes a big impression at major festival after marathon, all-night cooking grind

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 15, 2014 | 4:33 pm

    Only one Houston-area pitmaster served food at the fifth annual Texas Monthly BBQ festival in Austin on Sunday, but the Bayou City was still well represented.

    After a 4.75 star review from the magazine's barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn earned Killen's Barbecue the title of Newcomer of the Year, Ronnie Killen closed his restaurant for a day to bring his crew to Austin for the festival.

    "We're hoping to represent Houston well," Killen told CultureMap about 30 minutes before the gates opened. "We have a ton of food. It's cooked good. Hopefully, we do a good job."

    Killen says he was up until 2 a.m. Sunday morning, and his crew started back up at 5 a.m.

    Rather than focus on only one or two meats, Killen aimed to make an impression by bringing some of every meat he serves at the restaurant that's already considered one of the best in Houston. "We have 51 briskets, six cases of beef ribs, 20 racks of bone-in pork belly, which is about 400 pounds. We have sausage. We have turkey. We have pork ribs," Killen explained.

    They towed two pits to Austin and stayed up almost all night in order to cook the meats. Killen says he was up until 2 a.m. Sunday morning, and his crew started back up at 5 a.m. All the preparation paid off once the general admission attendees entered the festival at 1 p.m., because Killen's featured a consistent line of people eager to try a restaurant they'd mostly only read about.

    Although only Killen's was serving, three Houston pitmasters also attended the event as eaters: Greg Gatlin of Gatlin's BBQ, Wayne Kammerl of The Brisket House and Nichole and Will Buckman of CorkScrew BBQ in Spring. In all, that means four of CultureMap's Top 10 Houston Barbecue Restaurants were represented at the festival on Sunday, or five if one counts Killen's employee Patrick Feges, who's a skilled pitmaster in his own right.

    Asked about why he would drive 200 miles to eat barbecue on his day off, Gatlin explained. "This is my one time in the quarter that I can eat barbecue, and I don’t have to cook it myself."

    "I think it's great to see everybody come together to try a bunch of amazing places from across the state. It’s crazy to see these long lines," Kammerl added.

    While The Brisket House is becoming well-known for its beef ribs, Kammerl still hoped to pick up a few tricks. "The way these guys play with the different spices is really interesting. Everyone’s fairly similar in how they smoke their meat, but the spicing is what makes it unique."

    Gatlin offered a similar thought. "You can always learn something. If you’re not growing and you’re not learning, you’re dead," he said.

    An unofficial poll of the pitmasters and a few other Houston attendees produced a quick consensus about the best bites of the day. For brisket, no one could touch Austin's la Barbecue. Killen's scored with its spicy, juicy jalapeno sausage. A cherry-glazed rib from San Antonio's Two Bros. BBQ Market was an unexpected surprise. Naturally given its James Beard Award-winning pedigree, Louie Mueller Barbecue delivered spectacular beef ribs and a special lamb chop with jalapeno mint jelly.

    Regardless of any person's favorite bite, the spirit of camaraderie that's an essential part of the barbecue scene pervaded the entire festival. Whether someone had driven three miles or 300, everyone seemed to be having a good time. Credit the pleasant temperatures and high quality meat for keeping everyone happy even when some places ran long lines.

    Ain't Texas great?

    Local barbecue enthusiast Anthony Compofelice, right, Nichole Buckman, Will Buckman and Wayne Kammerl were part of the Houston contingent.

    17 Texas Monthly BBQ Festival September 2014 Will Buckman Nichole Buckman Wayne Kammerl
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Local barbecue enthusiast Anthony Compofelice, right, Nichole Buckman, Will Buckman and Wayne Kammerl were part of the Houston contingent.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    something for everyone

    New brewery pours into Houston with craft beer, cocktails, and homebrew

    Ralph Palmer
    Apr 10, 2026 | 12:29 pm
    Farmboy Brewing Company
    Photo by Ralph Palmer
    Farmboy Brewing Company is now open on N. Shepherd.

    The tides of craft breweries in Houston and across the country have shifted dramatically over the past five years, marked by closures and a clear softening of the once unstoppable boom, with names like True Anomaly, Elder Son, and Buffalo Bayou Brewing serving as recent reminders of how quickly the landscape can change. What is emerging in its place is a new phase that is far less rigid about labels and more focused on flexibility and meeting customers where they actually are.

    For Landon Weiershausen, that evolution is not guesswork. It's the entire business plan.

    After more than a decade running Farmboy Brew Shop and working across nearly every space of the beer supply chain, (hops to kegs to fruit) Weiershausen has stepped back into ownership with a new brewery. Farmboy Brewing Company (4816 N Shepherd Dr.) blends a taproom, full cocktail bar, and homebrew retail shop into a single, community-driven space. The location will be familiar to many craft beer fans, as it previously housed both North Shepherd Brewing and Astral Brewing.

    “It’s about giving people what they actually want when they walk in the door,” Weiershausen tells CultureMap.

    Weiershausen’s roots in Houston’s beer world stretch back to 2014, when he opened Farmboy Brew Shop, a go-to spot for local Oak Forest/Garden Oaks homebrewers looking for ingredients, gear, and advice. With the launch of Farmboy Brewing, that business still exists, but it’s now integrated into the new brewery.

    The move creates something unique in the world of Houston beer — a space where hobbyists, beer nerds, and casual drinkers can intersect. In the 9,000-square-foot space, customers can shop for grains and yeast then walk a few steps over and grab a pint or a cocktail.

    “The majority of people coming in for homebrew are also interested in drinking,” Weiershausen says. “Now they don’t have to choose.”

    Instead of fighting changes in the beverage industry, Weiershausen is leaning into diversification. His brewery operates with a mixed beverage license, allowing for a full cocktail program alongside beer, wine, non-alcoholic options, and THC-infused drinks. That last category, while politically contentious in Texas, represents what he sees as an undeniable shift in consumer behavior. Currently, Weiershausen is stocking a few verities of THC-infused offerings from Eureka Heights Brew Co.

    “There’s a huge market for it,” he says. “Whether people like it or not, customers are choosing those products over traditional alcoholic beverages."

    Rather than drawing lines between beer drinkers and everyone else, the goal is to make the space work for large groups that have diverse drink preferences.

    “If someone doesn’t drink beer, or doesn’t drink alcohol at all, we still want them to have options.”

    Despite the brewery name on the door, Weiershausen isn’t rushing his own beer to market. Instead, the tap list currently leans on guest kegs from local and regional breweries such as Great Heights, Spindletap, Saint Arnold, and Lone Pint. This decision is a deliberate move that buys time while new brewing equipment is installed and optimized. It’s a patient approach that prioritizes long-term quality over a fast rollout and reflects lessons learned from years inside the industry. In the meantime, the guest taps double as a nod to relationships that Weiershausen has built over many years.

    “A lot of these are people who took care of me over the years,” he says. “This is a way to return the favor.”

    Once the brewing program is rolled out in the next few weeks, expect the first batch of offering to include a West Coast IPA, Hazy IPA, Light Lager, and an American Wheat. The program itself will also be led by head brewer Steven Treleaven, formerly of Conroe’s B-52 Brewing.

    Weiershausen’s vision prioritizes education. The homebrew shop has always served as an entry point for teaching its customers more about beer, but the expanded space opens the door to something he describes as an “education escalator.” Plans include monthly workshops covering everything from brewing basics to off-flavor detection (a critical skill for anyone serious about improving their homebrew).

    Like most breweries, the space will feature familiar weekly staples including trivia nights, but Weiershausen is also looking to mix in less predictable programming. Think dance classes, themed events, and rotating concepts that go beyond the usual bingo-and-beer formula.

    On the food side, Weiershausen has chosen not to build an in-house kitchen. Instead, the brewery will host food trucks, including the return of fan-favorite El Alabrije, known for its Oaxacan-inspired menu.

    At its core, the concept reflects something bigger than one brewery. It’s a response to a changing market, a shifting customer base, and a city that’s never fit neatly into one category anyway. For Weiershausen, the path forward isn’t about choosing between beer, cocktails, or anything else. It’s about building a place where all of it works together.

    “We’re just trying to create something for the community,” he says. “Whatever that means for them.”

    ----

    Ralph Palmer is a co-owner of the Deckle and Hyde barbecue pop-up and a longtime craft beer enthusiast. Follow him on Instagram at eyefearnobeer.

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