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    Houston's Hottest Food

    The last days of a hot food festival produce a foodie panic: Where to get your fix

    Jodie Eisenhardt
    Aug 18, 2013 | 3:28 pm

    Hatch chilies rock. They just do. I get so excited every year during Hatch season, which includes the 18th annual Hatch Chile Festival at Central Market featuring the New Mexico beauties (it runs through Tuesday).

    There are also several local restaurant menu items that have caught my eye that celebrate the hatch.

    First, let’s talk about the chilies. Hatch chile refers to the varieties of chiles grown in the Hatch Valley, an area stretching north and south along the Rio Grande from Arrey, N.M. in the north end of the state to Tonuco Mountain towards the south of Hatch, N.M.. Most of the varieties of chile cultivated in the Hatch Valley have been developed at New Mexico State University for more than a century.

    I use the mild ones more so than the hot ones and am almost paranoid about running out.

    They range in heat from very mild to quite hot and growing conditions in the Hatch Valley contribute greatly to the consistent flavor, which is unique. Most importantly, distribution outside of the region is limited, so when I can get them, I get happy. They’ve received the “New Mexico True” stamp of approval from the New Mexico Tourism Department so the Hatch Chile Festival is the real deal and not something to be taken for granted.

    For years, I have taken the opportunity during the Hatch Chile Festival to buy the roasted onsite chiles (both mild and hot), do a rough puree in the food processor and then keep the treasures in small freezer bags to use throughout the year. In everything from soups and stews to burgers, corn chowder chicken enchiladas and au-gratin potatoes, or just stirred into mayo for a sandwich spread, I find that the chiles add a unique flavor — sweet, clear and defined.

    I use the mild ones more so than the hot ones and am almost paranoid about running out.

    Through the years, Central Market has continued to expand Hatch product offerings during the festival and this year there are more products than ever. Some that have obtained holy-grail status include the Beemster Gouda from Holland studded with the roasted chiles; a crazy-good apple/Hatch chile cobbler from the bakery; an incredible yummy spread I’m dying to put on crab cakes and a fabulous limited-edition bar of chocolate by small-batch producer Patric American Handcrafted Chocolate.

    I was also excited to learn that Hotel Icon's Line & Lariat's mixologist Houston Farris is currently pouring a new cocktail called the Hatch-22, using the seasonal chile in an infusion cocktail. Hubcap Grill is doing a Hatch Tamale Burger on random nights during the season and I’ve fallen in love with the Hatch Green Chile Double Cheeseburger at Del Frisco’s Grille that's on both the lunch and dinner menu.

    Roasted hatch vodka infusion at Line & Lariat

    Line & Lariat roasted hatch vodka infusion at Line & Lariat
    Photo courtesy of Line & Lariat
    Roasted hatch vodka infusion at Line & Lariat
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    New Year's greetings

    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
    news/restaurants-bars
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