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    Changes at Shade

    Rising star chef joins popular Heights neighborhood restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 7, 2016 | 10:15 am

    The Heights's status as Houston's hottest dining neighborhood is a recent development. New arrivals like Southern Goods, Cane Rosso, Hunky Dory, and Bernadine's have transformed 19th Street into a powerhouse restaurant row, but that doesn't mean more established Heights restaurants are resting on their laurels. Recently, one of the neighborhood's pioneers has made some changes that should ensure it continues its 13-year track record of success.

    Shade, the Southern comfort food restaurant owned by Claire Smith (also the proprietor of Woodbar and Canopy in Montrose), announced Thursday that it has a new face in the kitchen and a new look in the dining room.

    With stints at top Houston restaurants like Brasserie 19, Holley's, and Underbelly, newly hired executive chef Kenten Marin brings a diverse set of experiences to his new role. Raised in Peru, Marin's fresh perspective will see both new items and a fresh perspective to Shade classics like shrimp and grits.

    Other changes are still under development, but recent additions include boar-stuffed zucchini with blistered tomatoes, quinoa risotto with roasted vegetables, and scallop pappardelle with aji amarillo sauce and herb butter. The restaurant has even gotten in on the suddenly white hot poke trend with a version that utilizes snapper and is served with taro chips.

    As for the interior changes, Smith tapped local design firm RMMR Projects to open up the space. Inspired by the outdoors, the aim has been to create a relaxed, vacation-style vibe. Changes include removing posts in the entranceway to open it up and allow more light from the front windows, additional seating in the bar area, and new, custom-made tables.

    "We wanted Shade to still feel like a neighborhood space, keeping in mind the eclecticism and friendliness of the Heights,” said RMMR's Amanda Medsger in a statement. "We achieved this by both opening the space and encouraging more of an interaction with the 19th Street life. We chose shades of white, relaxing and bright shades of blue and other natural feeling materials, seen in the stone, wood wall, plants, ceramics, and fabric choices."

    Now open for breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, additional changes will see a walkup coffee window, an update of the restaurant's patio, and the addition of sidewalk tables to capitalize on 19th Street's pedestrian-friendly demeanor.

    "Just like Claire, we love the small town feel of the Heights and wanted to stay true to that while being inspired by the walkability of urban European streets," Medsger added. "We really aimed to contribute to 19th Street in a way that encourages it to be more sociable and walkable, to add another layer of design that gave people something to look at, not just while inside dining but also when strolling and 'window shopping.'"

    RMMR Projects designed Shade's new interior.

    Shade Heights interior
    Courtesy photo
    RMMR Projects designed Shade's new interior.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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