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    Dosant Dreams

    The cronut is only the beginning: 5 hipper pastries from the mind of Pearland's sweet genius

    Joel Luks
    Jun 24, 2013 | 12:14 pm

    Retired firefighter Raymond Peña's localebrity cachet surged when foodies discovered that this 54-year-old Galveston native had perfected a Texas version of the cronut, a half croissant, half donut pastry first conceived in New York City.

    While "out-of-towners" (and by that I mean insular Inner Loop hipsters that typically don't gallivant outside of Beltway 8 because it's just too far and not cool) have trooped in to Pearland to visit Pena's Donut Heaven & Grill — in turn boosting demand for the bakery's "dosant" and upping the production from 70 treats daily to more than 330 daily — it's business as usual for the suburban folk who dwell in nearby master planned communities and visit Peña frequently.

    Yes, the dosant, dosant, dosant is sitting shotgun for this wild food ride, but locals know there's more to this eatery that's nestled on a corner within an unremarkable, newish shopping strip.

    The burgers at this shop — particularly the Frito Pie Burger, Bun B Burger (bacon, chili, cheddar, jalapenos), Jimmy Carter Burger (crunchy peanut butter and cheese) and the Donut Burger — are reminiscent of the type of creativity found on the menu of Hubcap Grill, with the exception that Peña does offer a veggie burger option. Hot dogs, wraps, chicken fried steak, fried baskets, Tex-Mex and deli sandwiches are also available with side of fries or onion rings.

    Yet Peña's hospitality tale began with donuts, which continue to be a mainstay and the basis for the restaurant's popularity on early mornings, when it's common to overhear quite an array of conversations, like deja brew confessionals, personal drama and amicable family chit chat over coffee plus fried pastry combos.

    Surely there's nothing wrong with making a trek for the dosant, though if you stick around a tad longer — and you have room for additional indulgences — give one of these donut bad boys a try.

    Oreo Cookie Donut
    Think of the Oreo donut as what it would feel like to play Chubby Bunny with the sandwich cookie and a glass of full fat milk. Cookie crumbs dress the crust while the cream filling peeks from the core. It's messy, so no one will judge if you get a facial of white stuff on your nose.

    Apple Fritter
    The apple fritter may be a traditional staple in many bakeries, but there's something about the slightly elastic, brioche-rich texture here that's to-die-for. Want to be extra bad? Dip it in chocolate milk.

    Cocoa Puffs Donut
    For those who go loco for Cocoa Puffs, which is a fantastic snack a capella, Peña's whimsical Cocoa Puff donut variation is a nostalgic trip down memory lane to a time when it was permissible for food to come straight out of a box. The crunch is a welcome complement to the soft cake.

    Fruit Loops Donut
    If you are anti-chocolate cereal, the Fruit Loops donut is a more femme version of its cousin above. Peña opts for strawberry glaze in lieu of white, the color adding a festive appearance to the playful recipe.

    Bacon Bar
    There's no avoiding this oversized, elongated eclair-looking pastry when giving the display case a once over. Its size alone demands attention above all other flavors. It's salty pig bonded to chewier kolache dough with sweet glaze.

    No question the bacon bar is going straight to your thighs, but what option to do you have? Accept the fate.

    Cocoa Puffs donut.

    Pena's Donut Heaven & Grill Pearland June 2013 doughnut
      
    Photo by Joel Luks
    Cocoa Puffs donut.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Return of the Cas

    Award-winning Houston chef reemerges with new Memorial restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    May 28, 2025 | 12:38 pm
    Latuli exterior
    Photo by Frank Frances
    The restaurant occupies a ground-up build.

    Bryan Caswell is back. Six years after closing Reef, the pioneering Gulf Coast seafood restaurant in Midtown that earned him a Food & Wine Best New Chef award and a James Beard Award finalist nomination, the chef has opened Latuli in Houston’s upscale Memorial neighborhood.

    Located just off the Katy Fwy at 8900 Gaylord Dr., Latuli takes its name from the children (Lawson, Tucker and Lillie) of Caswell’s business partner Allison Knight, a former commercial real executive turned hospitality entrepreneur who attended culinary school to prepare for opening a restaurant. Described in press materials as serving Gulf Coast cuisine that incorporates Cajun, Mexican, Italian, Asian, and South Texas ranch-inspired fare, Latuli’s menu also includes nods to Caswell’s history of operating restaurants in Houston. In addition to Reef, the chef owned Stella Sola, an Italian restaurant that drew critical acclaim during its two-year run in the Heights, and El Real Tex-Mex Cafe, a Montrose favorite that closed in 2019.

    Meals at Latuli could begin with bites from its raw bar such as snapper tiradito, ahi tuna, or shrimp cocktail. Shareable starters include the “Double Dip,” a shareable plate that includes both smoked redfish dip and pimento cheese, heirloom tomato salad, an extra large meatball, and the chicken and hummus that was a favorite at PostScript, the short-lived River Oaks restaurant where Caswell consulted on the opening menu.

    Other items on the menu include the crab cake that once earned a shout out from Jay Z, the pork chop that was a Reef staple, wild boar ragu, and wagyu barbacoa. The restaurant will serve steaks from Texas ranches such as 44 Farms, R-C Ranch, and Smith’s own Rafter K.

    Those dishes will be paired with selections from a 100 bottle wine list chosen by sommelier Jeb Stuart, a Houston hospitality veteran who’s best known for his time as the opening general manager of Coltivare. Similarly, the cocktail program focuses on classics that are designed to pair well with the food.

    Smith enlisted New York-based Alfredo Paredes Studio to design the ground-up build. The two-story space includes an upstairs private dining room, a covered patio, and a spacious main dining room. Details include curtains made from vintage blankets, wrought iron signage inspired by Knight’s ranch, and signed Picassos from Knight’s personal art collection.

    “This looks and feels exactly as we intended,” Knight said in a statement. “Alfredo and I approached the project with a shared love for spaces that tell a story. Many of the pieces, including a few treasures we found in the nearby antiques mecca of Round Top, carry personal meaning and history. Every aspect of Latuli reflects that sense of warmth and comfort we envisioned from the start.”

    Latuli exterior
      

    Photo by Frank Frances

    The restaurant occupies a ground-up build.

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