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    reviving the market

    Veteran Houston chef revives Heights neighborhood market and eatery

    Holly Beretto
    May 29, 2019 | 9:15 am

    Change is in the wind for Revival Market. The Heights favorite has announced that Steve Lamborn has come on as chef de cuisine. The move comes after he served for seven years as executive sous chef at now-shuttered The Pass and Provisions.

    "Revival Market has always been the heart of Agricole Hospitality," said Revival's chef and owner Ryan Pera in a press release announcing the news. "We’re looking forward to working with Steve to continue to elevate our menu. He’s an incredibly experienced chef with fresh ideas and extensive knowledge. We couldn’t be happier to have him join the Agricole team."

    Lamborn was attracted to Revival's approach to sourcing sustainable ingredients, something he says reminds him of his own childhood, growing up in Delaware and Philadelphia. His father was a managing partner of a large farm in Delaware, and his mother managed a general store that sold produce, fresh jams, and preserves.

    "We’d sit down for dinner, and my dad would have four different plates of corn on the table," said Lamborn. "He wanted us to try all the different varietals to appreciate the subtle differences in their flavors. Food — and where it came from — was an integral part of my childhood.”

    He's looking forward to putting his stamp on the menu. He's planning to offer some lighter fare and is excited about the opportunity to dive into Revival's butchering program.

    "I’m also planning to diversify the menu a bit and bring in more seafood," he said.

    He's also got his eye on other changes, including adopting an abbreviated bread program, similar to that of Revival's sister property, Indianola, as well as gearing up for dishes that will pair with wine and beer, now that the Heights prohibition on alcohol has been lifted, and Revival is in the process of acquiring its beer and wine license.

    “I want people to come into Revival for a delicious crudo and a glass of wine. Or pick up a rack of ribs and a six-pack of beer to take home. Things at Revival are changing for the better,” he said.

    Revival Market's boudin.

    Revival Market Boudin
      
    Photo by Morgan Weber
    Revival Market's boudin.
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    What's Eric Eating Episode 470

    Two top 10 pitmasters react to Texas Monthly's new top 50 barbecue list

    CultureMap Staff
    May 28, 2025 | 4:36 pm
    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV are two of this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler is joined by three special guest to discuss Texas Monthly’s new list of the 50 best barbecue joints in the state.

    They are:

    • Ernest Servantes, pitmaster and co-owner of No. 1 ranked Burnt Bean Co. in Seguin
    • Leonard Botello IV, pitmaster and owner of No. 9 ranked Truth BBQ in Houston
    • Robert Jacob Lerma, a photographer who has captured some of the most iconic images in Texas barbecue

    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV
      

    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma

    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV are two of this week's guests.



    Servantes is candid in saying that earning No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s list has been a goal of his since he opened Burnt Bean in 2020. In its writeup, the magazine hails the restaurant as “a museum of small-town Texas, with barbecue perfection the main exhibit.” Servantes shares that his wife told him he can’t complain about the hard work or attention, because “you asked for it.” He continues:

    “The pressure to be No. 1. You have to be willing to accept it and say you asked for it. I grind every day. I try to be innovative. I love what I f—ing do. I love to be here. I love to work and innovate. I asked for this. I’m honored to take the No. 1 position, but at the end of the day, we’ll just keep on doing what we do now.”

    Botello has his own perspective on the list. Truth is one of only two restaurants statewide to make the list in 2017, 2021, and 2025. With so many new places opening every year, he’s had to innovate and improve to maintain his status within the world of Texas barbecue.

    “All of the information to cook a good brisket is out there. I’ve put information out there,” he says. “You can buy a Mill Scale or a Moberg [smoker]. So, what’s next? What is going to change the era of barbecue? I think that’s where we’re at today on the list. Brisket, ribs, and sausage aren’t going to make the cut, because so many people do it so good.”

    Sandler turns to Lerma for his perspective on Snow’s BBQ. Located in the small town of Lexington, the restaurant is arguably one of the world’s most famous barbecue joints, complete with an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table documentary series centered around its pitmaster, Tootsie Tomanetz. Ranked No. 9 in 2021, it fell into the unranked, alphabetized portion of the Texas Monthly list for the first time in 2025.

    “To me, it’s quintessential Texas barbecue that encompasses more than food. You have the history with Tootsie. You have this feeling on Saturday morning that reminds me of a Sunday church pot luck with people coming from all over the world. The common denominator is their love for barbecue and their love for this lady and this place,” he says. “Does it need to be number one for me to have a good time there? Absolutely not . . . To me, whether it’s 10 or 25 or one, it’s arbitrary.”

    As for Servantes, he shares that he’s achieved his goals of making No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s list, earning a spot in the Michelin Guide, and a James Beard Award nomination. He’ll celebrate with a great bottle of champagne and then get back to work serving people barbecue.

    “I feel like Thanos right now with all the stones. People say, what’s next? What’s next is what I asked for. We’re bringing people from all over the world to try the barbecue and tell my story to everybody,” he says.

    “I’m still evolving. We’ll be snapping necks and cashing checks.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about Servantes’ plans for the future. Botello also shares more thoughts on the evolving role of pitmasters in the larger culinary scene. Sandler and Lerma discuss some of the other places in the top 10 as well as some of the restaurants that earned honorable mentions.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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