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    d'or duo

    Houston's beloved boutique hotel welcomes 2 fresh faces leading food and drink program

    Eric Sandler
    May 2, 2022 | 4:51 pm

    Two fresh faces are leading the culinary program at Montrose’s favorite boutique hotel. La Colombe d’Or recently welcomed chef JB Babaran to lead its kitchen and Calvin Salemi as food and beverage director.

    Babaran and Salemi replace chef Jonthan Wicks and front of house specialist Chris Fleischman, both of whom helped the hotel open its restaurant Tonight & Tomorrow and its companion Bar No. 3 last year. The property closed for two years during which it received a $10 million renovation and real estate development firm Hines partnered with La Colombe d’Or’s owners the Zimmerman family to build a 34-story luxury high-rise on the property.

    Babaran, a native of the Philippines, brings experiences from River Oaks Country Club, The Houstonian, and Turner’s to Tonight and Tomorrow’s Kitchen. Salemi’s resume includes work in Paris, Bangkok, and New York City’s acclaimed Minetta Tavern. He comes to Houston from Guam, where he led all food and beverage outlets at Dusit Thani, a five-star luxury resort.

    “Our new culinary and beverage teams bring a tremendous amount of creativity and experience to La Colombe d’Or and have put together exciting seasonal menus and flavors for visitors of our hotel,” hotel principal Dan Zimmerman said in a statement. “We look forward to welcoming our hotel guests and our local community to experience what only we can deliver within our unique environment at La Colombe d’Or.”

    Babaran’s new menu includes dishes inspired by both coastal European and classic French flavors. They include: cacciucco, a stew of lobster, octopus, shrimp, clams, mussels, scallop, and finfish in a red wine tomato broth; sauteed Gulf red snapper topped with jumbo lump crab; lamb shank barbacoa; and more. Of course, La Colombe d’Or classics like crab ravigote and French onion soup remain available.

    Bar No. 3’s new seasonal cocktail menu takes its names and inspiration from sculptures found on the hotel property. For example, the ‘East of the Pecos’, a drink made with tequila and mezcal, is named after the cantilevered, yellow-painted steel installation by artist Rolf Westphal. Similarly, ‘RockGrowthRoot,’ a cocktail that combines dark rum and coffee liquor, is named after the Corten steel installation by Arik Levy. Pair them with new dishes on the bar menu such as a duck carnitas tostada or steak frites.

    “I’m thrilled to call La Colombe d’Or my new home and bring my cooking techniques to a Houston institution,” Babaran said. “As a long-time Houston resident, I understand the palate of the city and look forward to introducing new and interesting flavors and ideas on our seasonal menus in the restaurant and bar.”

    As part of the renovations, La Colombe d'Or now offers 32 rooms divided between the mansion, the tower, and nine garden bungalows that are grouped around a common courtyard. Hotel guests have access to a variety of amenities shared between the hotel and residences: multiple gardens, a private park, a state-of-the-art fitness facility and pool with downtown views, and an art gallery with rotating exhibits.

    Cacciucco, a fish and shellfish stew in a red wine tomato broth.

    La Colombe d'Or hotel caccuicco
    Courtesy of La Colombe d'Or
    Cacciucco, a fish and shellfish stew in a red wine tomato broth.
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    The Donn of Tiki

    Texas-born tiki legend shines in new documentary with Houston screening

    Brianna Caleri
    Oct 13, 2025 | 3:00 pm
    The Donn of Tiki film still
    Still from The Donn of Tiki
    The Donn of Tiki uncover's tiki culture's origins through one influential bar owner.

    It seems like the 20th century phenomenon of tiki bars would have emerged organically, with no sole progenitor, but a quick online search always turns up the late, supposedly Texas-born bar owner Donn Beach. A new documentary called The Donn of Tiki follows the history of "tiki culture" from this influential origin, aiming to "separate fact from fiction," according to a press release.

    The James Beard Media Award-nominated film will screen in Houston at the River Oaks Theatre on Tuesday, October 14. Austin can catch it at the Regal Westgate Stadium 11 on October 15.

    In the film's first moments, it defines tiki as "Cantonese food, Caribbean mixology, and South Pacific decor combined to create an aesthetic that was exotic, yet undeniably American." It also wastes no time in characterizing Beach, portrayed in this film as a whimsical claymation figure, as an unreliable narrator.

    Although Ernest Raymond Gantt, a.k.a. Donn Beach, was based in Hollywood when he opened his bar Don the Beachcomber in 1934, he was born in Mexia, Texas — or at least that's what the film settles on, using census records. The current website for the Don the Beachcomber brand, which was purchased by 23 Restaurant Services in 2022, repeats Beach's claim that his birthplace was New Orleans, Louisiana.

    The film goes on to detail the escapism of tiki culture, the surprising subtly of the mixology despite the aesthetic overkill, and the business intricacies of bootlegging and commercializing indigenous practices in Hawai'i. As it'd be a crime to film a bland documentary about tiki culture, all the interviewees pull these historical threads while wearing vivid Pacific island prints.

    Even taking into account Beach's penchant for yarn-spinning and legendary contribution to cultural appropriation, the film's official description calls him "a champion for authenticity, both in his work, and within himself."

    Audience members at the Houston screening will be able to learn more from co-director Max Well during a post-screening Q&A. For now, local screenings offer the only opportunities the general public will have to see the film. However, an FAQ page on the documentary's website says the team is working on a Blu-Ray release with more content, including recipes, and they expect the film to eventually be available on demand on platforms such as Amazon Video and Apple TV.

    The River Oaks Theater will host two screenings at 7:15 pm and 8:45 pm. Tickets ($21) are available here.

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