A lucky sold-out crowd of 125 had their taste buds enticed by a talented lineup of all-female chefs, bartenders and wine professionals from Houston and Austin at event space 5226 Elm last weekend. Dubbed “Bitches for Bitches," the multi-course chef’s tasting and silent auction benefited Lucky Dog Rescue.
The event netted more than $23,000 for the cause, with virtually everything being donated including ingredient support from Whole Foods and the participating chefs along with product from Hudson Ferus Vodka, St. Arnold and Renaissance Wines. Chefs Randy Evans, John Sheely, Philippe Gaston and many others donated Chef’s Tastings and gift cards to contribute significantly to the effort via the silent auction where items like a weekend at the soon to open Lone Star Court in Austin combined with dinner at Uchi went for $825 and an “Opening Night Tasting” with chef Brandi Key at the upcoming Coppa Osteria fetched $620.
Masson was eager to do something unique for this one and called upon a league of fellow female chefs to join the effort.
“The auction items are dream dining experiences for us — we wouldn’t miss this event!” said attendee April McGee who was clearly thrilled to win the Coppa tasting.
Owner of a rescue dog from the streets of Houston and currently a foster for Lucky Dog Rescue, pastry chef Rebecca Masson of Fluff Bake Bar spearheaded the first “Sweet & Savory” event in April, 2010. Due to the overwhelming response, her events have become highly anticipated foodie gatherings, raising much-needed funds for the ever-increasing number of dogs in need of rescue and placement.
“These events have enabled us to virtually double our rescue efforts from when the organization was founded in 2009,” said Laura Finkeldey, president of Lucky Dog Rescue. Considering the extreme numbers of stray animals on the streets of Houston (recent studies report there are 1.2 million), it’s a never-ending need.
Chefs Star
Masson was eager to do something unique for this one and called upon a league of fellow female chefs to join the effort. Claire Smith of Shade and Canopy kicked things off with passed appetizers of tender duck confit and mushroom frisee served on potato crisps (think delicate flower-petal shaped “Ruffles”) along with a fantastic traditional English curry blend of spices for her curried crab served on a whole-wheat pita crisp.
Young chef Patricia Burdette of Cresent Moon Wine Bar blew us away with her appetizer of chilled, extraordinarily tender octopus carpaccio served with an earthy sauteed beech mushroom salad brightened with just a hit of lemon juice. Her lamb “lollipop” was prepared sous vide with rosemary and seared just before serving — with a dollop of tangy red bell pepper and mango chutney. Utterly divine.
“These events have enabled us to virtually double our rescue efforts from when the organization was founded in 2009."
Robin Berwick from Midtown’s Double Trouble and Alba Huerta from Anvil served up a refreshing “Lucky Dog Punch” made with Hudson Ferus Vodka. And this was only the beginning.
For the first seated course, chef Amanda McGraw (who recently left Brasserie 19 and is now at Tiny Boxwood’s) served her famously delicious pickled Texas gulf shrimp with smoked crème fraiche, celery and fennel, paired beautifully with a Riesling from Australia.
Key followed with a hearty second course of rabbit sausage with a crazy-good crunchy whole-grain mustard sauce — a wonderful contrast to the waxy red creamer potatoes — and finished with charred green onions, served family style on large platters that lined the tables. Winner! The dish was nicely paired with a Truly Noble Julep cocktail.
The third course was the cheese course — a combo effort from Karen Man, the pastry Chef at Oxheart and Elizabeth Thoede from Houston Dairymaids. Man’s impossibly delicate brioche crisps with fennel and golden raisin relish served alongside the Matos St. Jorge cheese and the freshest, creamiest ‘spring’ chevre from Pure Luck Farms in Dripping Springs made for a delicious revelation. Paired with St. Arnold’s Brown Ale, many said it was the best combination of the evening.
The fourth course — the first “dessert” course — was a masterful creation by Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Pastry Chef, Jodi Elliott from Foreign & Domestic in Austin. Her “yogurt” sorbet had such a fresh, tart flavor — not too sweet — combined with the tart dried cherries and the bright green dill syrup (yes, dill) and scatterings of crumbled baked phyllo. It was my favorite course of the night.
The fifth course was a nice contrast to the fourth — a delicate, buttery petite apple-almond Danish with vanilla bean and honey, topped with an adorably crunchy “Lucky Dog” brittle tuile by Katie Rangel from Michael’s Cookie Jar, paired with Saint Arnold Santos.
Next up, the “host bitch” (she won’t mind being called that), Rebecca Masson did a genius twist with tangy, crunchy sous vide-prepared rhubarb alongside some magical mousse-like concoction created with Vahlrona’s “dulcey cremeux” — a relatively new 32 percent buttery, toasty, salty chocolate that was perfectly complemented by a rose-scented meringue. It was paired with a layered shot glass (but not a shot) of Jamoca flavored liqueurs to sip alongside. Very nice.
The seventh course featured Callie Speer (wife of Uchi director of culinary operations Philip Speer) from Swift’s Attic in Austin. For those who feared a lack of chocolate, Callie came through with a combination of dark chocolate, salty almond, ginger and black sesame paired with a sparkling Shiraz from Australia.
On the way back into the reception area, armed with goody bags from Whole Foods, guests were greeted with Katz Coffee and a “push pop to go” of ice cream from Fat Cat Creamery, which will soon open a storefront on 19th Street in the Heights. The "Gin-Gin Mule” was an inspired creation, with flecks of lime zest with the rich gingery ice cream.
It was the perfect, refreshing end to an outstanding meal and a fantastic evening — for the bitches, and everyone else involved.
Rebecca Masson's dulcey crémeux with rhubarb, streusel and rose
