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    What's Eric Eating Episode 190

    Meet the artisan behind the MFAH's new cafe, plus fine dining in Montrose

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 22, 2021 | 1:10 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jonathan Benno joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Cafe Leonelli, the casual Italian restaurant that just opened in the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston's Kinder building. The conversation begins with Benno tracing the arc of his career, which includes working for six years as chef de cuisine at Per Se, acclaimed chef Thomas Keller's three-star Michelin restaurant in New York City.

    Cafe Leonelli is a decidedly casual affair. It serves focaccia, pastries, and Italian-American staples like meatballs and chicken cacciatore along a cafeteria-style serving line. Sandler asks the chef to explain how his fine dining background shapes the food at a casual concept.

    "There were a number of things that really resonated with me when I started at the French Laundry 25 years ago. And those principles remain with me today, Benno says. "That's cleanliness, organization, discipline, sense of urgency. We're making focaccia and scooping meatballs here, but those fundamentals we're trying to impress on a young team here. Commitment to quality ingredients . . . Working with local vendors, trying to source ingredients locally I think is really important."

    The conversation touches on a number of other topics, including what diners can expect from Cafe Leonelli; a brief mention of Le Jardinier, a vegetable-forward fine dining restaurant from chef Alain Verzeroli that will also open at the Museum; and the welcome chef Benno has received from his colleagues in the Houston restaurant industry. Sandler also asks the chef about the possibility of more concepts in Houston and where in town he's been eating.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Tres Amigos Cafe y Cantina replacing Shepherd Park Draught House; Underground Hall owner Daut Elshani teaming up with chef Geoff Hundt to open a new restaurant in Garden Oaks; and chef Ben McPherson developing BOH Slice, a fast casual pizza concept based on his stand at Bravery Chef Hall.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson dive deep into a recent meal they shared at March, the fine dining, tasting menu restaurant led by Goodnight Hospitality partners chef Felipe Riccio and master sommelier June Rodil. The restaurant is expensive — a nine-course dinner for two with wine pairings costs about $700 after tax and tip — but the duo rave about the menu's creativity and the quality of the service they experienced.

    "I recognize that this is beyond the means for a lot of people," Sandler says, "but just like I'm never going to pay the money to sit courtside at a Rockets game or for the very best theater tickets, people who have the means and appreciate this style of dining — there's nothing like this in Houston right now."

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Cafe Leonelli has opened at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.

    Cafe Leonelli Museum of Fine Arts Houston exterior
    Photo by Claudia Casbarian
    Cafe Leonelli has opened at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.
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    water, water everywhere

    The quest for a Topo Chico replacement — we rate 9 sparkling waters

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Sparkling water taste
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    We purchased sparkling water at five stores across the inner loop.

    Topo Chico drinkers nationwide are in a bit of a tizzy. Coca-Cola, which acquired the cult-favorite sparkling mineral water in 2017, announced that the product will be unavailable for at least the next few months.

    CNN reports the shortage is due to “facility upgrades at the water source and production facilities in Mexico.”

    “We are now making further investments at the source to improve source stability and quality and enable increased production, requiring us to temporarily stop production,” Coca-Cola said in a letter to CNN.

    For Topo Chico fans, the shortage brings an obvious question. What should a person drink until the supply is restored? Or, what’s a permanent replacement that will avoid this issue altogether?

    After collecting suggestions from people via Instagram, I went to Spec’s and inner loop grocery stores to purchase nine varieties of sparkling water with one goal in mind — find something that’s similar enough to Topo Chico that it will earn a spot in my refrigerator.

    In the interests of science, I only included sparkling water brands that are similar in size (approximately 12-ounce bottles) and price (between $1 and $1.50 per bottle). Whenever possible, I purchased glass bottles instead of cans or plastic. Although many are available in flavors, I only purchased unflavored waters. All waters were chilled overnight in a refrigerator prior to tasting.

    Sparkling water taste test Each water was chilled overnight prior to tasting.Photo by Eric Sandler

    Not surprisingly, my top three choices came down to two other Mexican sparkling waters and a convincing dupe from H-E-B.

    Most Similar to Topo Chico

    Agua de Piedra
    Purchased from Spec’s (can also be found at La Michocana), this water from Nuevo Leon, Mexico can be found at several restaurants and coffee shops around town. It offers both strong carbonation and just enough saltiness to satisfy a Topo craving. As long as I can source it reliably, this will be my new house water.

    Mineragua
    Available at both Whole Foods Market and H-E-B, this water from Jarritos is almost as carbonated as Topo Chico. Its flavor profile is salty with a slight, citrus-style acidity. I prefer the flavor of Agua de Piedra, but others may like this more.

    1877 Mineral Water by H-E-B
    H-E-B’s house brand sparkling mineral water is sourced from Texas, in Mineral Wells. It has carbonation that persists from opening until finishing. Its slightly salty flavor will be welcomed by Topo Chico drinkers. Overall, it’s probably the best choice for more people, since it’s so readily available.

    Less Like Topo, but Still Tasty

    Rambler Sparkling Water
    This mineral water from Austin is available everywhere, including many restaurants and bars. Since it's only available in cans, its more mild carbonation doesn’t match Topo Chico’s; however, it has a lightly salty taste that makes it very refreshing. This is a good option for those who find Topo to be too fizzy.

    Tehuacan
    Purchased at Central Market, this water is sourced from springs within Citlaltépetl, Mexico’s highest mountain. The mountain’s volcanic rock gives the water a noticeable saltiness with a slightly sour taste. Although it wasn’t quite to my taste, its strong carbonation and distinct flavor could appeal to other Topo devotees.

    Private Selection Sparkling Mineral Water
    Available at Kroger, this water is neither as carbonated nor as salty as Topo Chico. Still, it has enough fizz and minerality to do in a pinch, particularly for people who prefer shopping at Kroger over other grocery stores.

    Your Mileage May Vary

    Richard’s Sparkling Rainwater
    Admittedly, a non-mineral water was unlikely to emerge as a favorite in this taste test. Since it’s made with filtered rainwater, Richard’s has a very clean taste and a mild level of carbonation.

    Saratoga Carbonated Spring Water
    Like Richard’s, this water is too lightly carbonated and too mildly flavored to satisfy a Topo craving. Still, it’s clean and refreshing, which could appeal to non-Topo drinkers.

    I’ve Had Better

    Liquid Death Mountain Water (Sparkling)
    Bland and flat-tasting, this water was the only one I wouldn’t purchase again. Maybe the flavored versions are better.

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