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    8 things to know

    8 things to know about Houston food right now: openings, closings, and a major chef change

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 23, 2018 | 9:02 am

    A major chef change tops this week’s news. Montrose restaurant Aqui and chef de cuisine Gabriel Medina have parted ways, CultureMap has learned.

    General manager Steven Lo confirmed Medina’s departure but politely declined to comment on the circumstances. Medina has yet to respond to CultureMap’s request for comment about the situation or what his future plans might be.

    Chef-owner Paul Qui, who is still awaiting trial on charges for domestic assault stemming from an incident in March 2016, and former Kuneho chef de cuisine Mia Li are spending more time at the restaurant in the wake of Medina’s departure, according to Lo. Sous chef Niki Vongthong and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year winner Jill Bartolome are still with the restaurant.

    Medina, who came to Aqui after successful stints at Kata Robata, Soma Sushi, and acclaimed Tokyo restaurant Narisawa (among others), helped lead Aqui to widespread acclaim, including a four-star review from Chronicle critic Alison Cook and a nomination for Medina as one of the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star Chefs of the Year. The New York Times reported that Aqui would have been nominated for the country’s Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Awards if not for Qui’s assault charges.

    MidiCi, the California-based Neapolitan pizza chain, has closed its Greenway Plaza/Upper Kirby location at 2925 Richmond Ave. after less than a year in business. Although the space still has its equipment and furniture, the restaurant has been removed from the company's website and its Facebook page has disappeared. Locations in Katy and Pearland remain open.

    Che Inka, a Peruvian and Argentinian restaurant in Rice Military, recently closed. Despite generally positive reviews, a "For Lease" sign now hangs above the space at 5535 Memorial Dr. Argentina Cafe, the restaurant's sister concept in the Galleria area, remains open.

    River Oaks residents with a taste for General Tso's chicken take note: Cafe Ginger has moved to its new home at 1574 W. Gray. The popular Chinese restaurant moved approximately half a mile to make way for The Driscoll at River Oaks, Weingarten Realty's 30-story residential tower that will be built on the site. Cafe Ginger will be BYOB at its new location until it receives its liquor license.

    Houston's second Velvet Taco opened quietly last month at 907 Westheimer Rd. The Dallas-based restaurant is known for its creative tacos, loaded tater tots, and rotisserie meats. With a two-story space, late night hours (open until 4 am on Friday and Saturday), and casual atmosphere, it's a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

    Memorial-area favorite Leibman’s Eatery, Market, and Gifts (formerly Leibman's Wine & Fine Foods) has reopened in its new location at 10100 Katy Freeway. Although smaller than the Memorial Drive store it replaces, the new Leibman’s still features the same wine, gifts, and deli that has made it a neighborhood staple for almost 40 years.

    Owner Sharon Leibman, the daughter of founders Ettiene and Ralph Leibman, has expanded the deli’s selection and seating area to allow for dining during breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While some items are new, signature dishes like the chicken salad Afrique and Gone In a Minute dip are still available and made with their classic recipes.

    Popular Italian restaurant Grazia Italian Kitchen has opened its third Houston-area location in Katy at 22764 Westheimer Pkwy., the restaurant announced on Facebook. Currently open for dinner only, lunch and brunch services will begin in May. Expect the same pizzas, pastas, steaks, and seafood items that have made the restaurant successful at both its Pearland and Clear Lake locations — including the award-winning smoked short ribs and risotto.

    Creamistry, a California-based chain that serves ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, will open its third Houston-area location in Friendswood at 211 W. Eldorado Blvd., Ste. D. The new location will join outposts near the Galleria and in the Memorial area when it opens in May.

    Chef Gabriel Medina has left Aqui.

    Gabriel Medina Aqui
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Chef Gabriel Medina has left Aqui.
    openingsnews-you-can-eatchefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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