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    Love Letter to Houston Restaurants

    National critic pens love letter to Houston restaurants: Someone else gets it

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 15, 2016 | 3:08 pm

    Another national critic understands how awesome Houston's food scene is. On Thursday, Bill Addison, Eater's food critic who travels the country from his home in Atlanta, dropped a self-described "love letter to Houston's extraordinary restaurant culture" that goes beyond the big names and shows what makes eating here so special.

    "As a nation, we know the culinary greatness and variety we have in our best gastronomic cities: Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Chicago. I'm not convinced, though, that enough of America grasps the glory of Houston, the city that easily rounds out the country's top five food destinations," Addison writes in the lead paragraph of his article titled "18 Reasons Your Next Meal Should be in Houston. Later, he continues his praise: "in my near-constant travels, no city more constantly astounds me on every visit than Houston. Its extraordinary breadth (more than 10,000 restaurants) and the remarkable blend of cultures — the crossroads geography of this place lays its culinary foundation."

    Addison's article shows the depth that comes from years of visits (he used to work for the Dallas Morning News) that he supplemented with a recent, week-long catch up trip. Like Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema, who also ranked Houston as the country's fifth best food city after traveling the nation, Addison got outside the loop to Chinatown, Hillcroft, and beyond. It stands in stark contrast to a recent New York Times article titled "Houston's Culinary Bragging Rights" that profiled four high-profile, inside the Loop restaurants but did little to showcase the city's culinary diversity.

    The list of 18 dishes blends classics like fajitas at Ninfa's and barbacoa at Gerardo's — also featured on CultureMap's list of 10 Houston dishes to eat before you die — with more modern favorites like the Korean goat and dumplings at Underbelly and bone marrow pho at Pho Binh by Night. He even hits a range of recent arrivals like Helen, Foreign Correspondents, and Chinatown's Uyghur Bistro.

    Count Ronnie Killen as the list's big winner for landing both the chicken fried steak at Killen's Steakhouse and a five meat plate from Killen's Barbecue on the list. Oxheart, the only restaurant on Addison's list of the country's 38 essential restaurants, also gets some love for the dumplings that chef Justin Yu and cook Samuel Chang first developed for its dinner at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

    Snubs are a little trickier to sort out, but let's just say that Addison's view of Houston dining is pretty cutting edge. Old-school fine dining destinations like Tony's, Da Marco, and Mark's are nowhere to be found, and Addison writes that he was "disappointed" by a visit to Pondicheri.

    Both Sietsema and Addison sit on the James Beard Award committee that determines the semifinalists for the restaurant and chef awards. As the praise mounts, Houston's restaurant community will begin to earn the national respect it deserves, as demonstrated by the nominations of Helen Greek Food & Wine and The Pass. If the city keeps the momentum going, it may even start to win a few. Wouldn't that be fun?

    Fried chicken at Barbecue Inn.

    Barbecue Inn Houston fried chicken with french fries
    Photo by Jon B./Foursquare.com
    Fried chicken at Barbecue Inn.
    news-you-can-eatlistsmedia
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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