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    Smoke Signals

    Reality star chef's 3 restaurants ready to fire in Upper Kirby

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 11, 2020 | 4:00 pm

    The wait for Tim Love's Houston debut has come to an end. The acclaimed, Fort Worth-based chef will open three new restaurants in Upper Kirby's Levy Park on Thursday, March 12. They are:

    • The Woodshed Smokehouse: "an homage to all things wood grilled, roasted, steamed, braised and slow-cooked"
    • The Love Shack: the chef's take on a classic burger joint
    • Side Dough: a double-decker bus serving coffee and pastries

    Some two years in the making, the new restaurants are Love's first Houston establishments. Best known for Lonesome Dove, his Fort Worth restaurant that will celebrate its 20th anniversary this year, the acclaimed chef operates establishments in Dallas, Fort Worth, Austin, and Nashville. He's also a reality TV star known for his appearances on Iron Chef America, Top Chef Masters, and Restaurant Startup, a Shark Tank-style show he hosted with Masterchef judge Joe Bastianich.

    “Houston has an unimpeachable food scene and some of the most curious and welcoming diners my team and I have had the pleasure of serving, Love said in a statement. "A sprawling space with an outdoor element is hard to come by so when the opportunity came to be considered for Levy Park, I jumped at the chance. It’s really the perfect fit with a laid back oasis-in-the-city vibe I’m excited to be a part of."

    Woodshed is the largest and most significant of Love's Houston restaurants. Located on Wakeforest Ave between Richmond Dr. and Hwy. 59 feeder road, the restaurants seats approximately 100 in its main dining room, with another 35 available on its patio and a private dining room that holds 16. The building features a custom smoke room as well as rotisseries and grills. It opens for lunch and dinner daily at 11 am.

    Similar to its sibling in Fort Worth, Woodshed's menu lists not just a dish and its ingredients but also the type of wood used to season the dish: mesquite, hickory, pecan, or oak. Proteins include the usual beef, chicken, and pork as well as wild game such as venison and antelope.

    The offerings are extensive. Starters include crispy Brussels sprouts with lime vinaigrette, smoked whitefish dip with camp bread and tortilla chips, and "Kick Ass Nachos." Similarly, entrees range from Southern staples like chicken fried steak and a pulled pork sandwich to globally-inspired tastes such as a Peking-style duck that diners must reserve 24-hours in advance. One other signature item is the tacos of the day, which are made with pork, lamb, venison, goat, or antelope.

    Love Shack is a considerably more no-frills affair. Located in a kiosk on the western side of the park near Eastside St., it serves burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, nachos, and more, as well as wine, beer, lemonade, and root beer on draft. Since the kiosk is located near the dog park, Love Shack will also offer canine-friendly items such as housemade rawhide bones. It also opens for lunch and dinner daily at 11 am.

    Like Woodshed, Side Dough is located on Wakeforest. Open for breakfast and lunch, the double decker bus will serve a full range of coffee drinks plus grab-and-go items such as breakfast tacos, sandwiches, and pastries. It will operate daily from 7 am until 5 pm.

    "We are thrilled to welcome Tim Love and his dining concepts to Levy Park,” park director Stephanie Kiouses said. “Levy Park’s guests are a vibrant, diverse mix of visitors and we are excited to add these exciting culinary offerings to our existing park amenities, events and programs for our beloved parkgoers to enjoy.”

    A look inside Woodshed Smokehouse.

    Woodshed Smokehouse Levy Park Tim Love interior
      
    Courtesy of Love Management Inc
    A look inside Woodshed Smokehouse.
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    What's Eric Eating Episode 470

    Two top 10 pitmasters react to Texas Monthly's new top 50 barbecue list

    CultureMap Staff
    May 28, 2025 | 4:36 pm
    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV are two of this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler is joined by three special guest to discuss Texas Monthly’s new list of the 50 best barbecue joints in the state.

    They are:

    • Ernest Servantes, pitmaster and co-owner of No. 1 ranked Burnt Bean Co. in Seguin
    • Leonard Botello IV, pitmaster and owner of No. 9 ranked Truth BBQ in Houston
    • Robert Jacob Lerma, a photographer who has captured some of the most iconic images in Texas barbecue

    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV
      

    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma

    Ernest Servantes and Leonard Botello IV are two of this week's guests.



    Servantes is candid in saying that earning No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s list has been a goal of his since he opened Burnt Bean in 2020. In its writeup, the magazine hails the restaurant as “a museum of small-town Texas, with barbecue perfection the main exhibit.” Servantes shares that his wife told him he can’t complain about the hard work or attention, because “you asked for it.” He continues:

    “The pressure to be No. 1. You have to be willing to accept it and say you asked for it. I grind every day. I try to be innovative. I love what I f—ing do. I love to be here. I love to work and innovate. I asked for this. I’m honored to take the No. 1 position, but at the end of the day, we’ll just keep on doing what we do now.”

    Botello has his own perspective on the list. Truth is one of only two restaurants statewide to make the list in 2017, 2021, and 2025. With so many new places opening every year, he’s had to innovate and improve to maintain his status within the world of Texas barbecue.

    “All of the information to cook a good brisket is out there. I’ve put information out there,” he says. “You can buy a Mill Scale or a Moberg [smoker]. So, what’s next? What is going to change the era of barbecue? I think that’s where we’re at today on the list. Brisket, ribs, and sausage aren’t going to make the cut, because so many people do it so good.”

    Sandler turns to Lerma for his perspective on Snow’s BBQ. Located in the small town of Lexington, the restaurant is arguably one of the world’s most famous barbecue joints, complete with an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table documentary series centered around its pitmaster, Tootsie Tomanetz. Ranked No. 9 in 2021, it fell into the unranked, alphabetized portion of the Texas Monthly list for the first time in 2025.

    “To me, it’s quintessential Texas barbecue that encompasses more than food. You have the history with Tootsie. You have this feeling on Saturday morning that reminds me of a Sunday church pot luck with people coming from all over the world. The common denominator is their love for barbecue and their love for this lady and this place,” he says. “Does it need to be number one for me to have a good time there? Absolutely not . . . To me, whether it’s 10 or 25 or one, it’s arbitrary.”

    As for Servantes, he shares that he’s achieved his goals of making No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s list, earning a spot in the Michelin Guide, and a James Beard Award nomination. He’ll celebrate with a great bottle of champagne and then get back to work serving people barbecue.

    “I feel like Thanos right now with all the stones. People say, what’s next? What’s next is what I asked for. We’re bringing people from all over the world to try the barbecue and tell my story to everybody,” he says.

    “I’m still evolving. We’ll be snapping necks and cashing checks.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about Servantes’ plans for the future. Botello also shares more thoughts on the evolving role of pitmasters in the larger culinary scene. Sandler and Lerma discuss some of the other places in the top 10 as well as some of the restaurants that earned honorable mentions.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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