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    Food for Thought

    Chefs screaming, throwing knives and attacking food: How Houston's best stack up to TV stereotypes

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 9, 2013 | 4:41 pm

    Did you see the Cheezburger humor site post with a shot of a chef opening a walk-in cooler that reads “Walk-in Cooler: Scream therapy for chefs for over 60 years.”

    Now that’s funny.

    And apparently a lot of chefs thought so as well. There were plenty of commenters who admitted to using the walk-in to release a little kitchen frustration along with the occasional pot smoking and dead body storage. I’m pretty sure that last one was a joke.

    Anyway, running a commercial kitchen is not for the faint of heart. On your feet slaving over a hot line for 14-hour days, dealing with bitchy customers, short handed and exhausted, it can be a bit of a stressor.

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    Anyone who watches food reality TV or reads memoirs like The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness, and the Making of a Great Chef by original bad boy celebrity British chef Marco Pierre White, knows how some chefs handle the pressure. In his memoir, the enfant terrible of the kitchen recounts a scene where he threw an entire cheese plate, cheese by cheese onto the wall by the pass and left the cheeses there, stuck to the wall, because the waiter had not cut one of the pieces to his liking.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen. Not in Texas anyway.

    For the most part, Houston’s hot chefs are pretty mellow. Maybe it’s just the Texas way, but with the exception of one or two, most of our chefs just roll with the punches.

    How do they do it?

    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the soon-to-open Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.

    Exercise, in fact, seems to be a recurring theme to keep local chefs from throwing knives and pots at staff and customers.

    “I love to ride my bike,” says Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Cafe. “And I go to spinning class in the mornings. I have learned to make time to do this because it keeps me centered and happy.”

    Ditto for a local corporate executive chef.

    “For me, the gym is the best,” says Dan Phalen of Luby’s/Fuddruckers. “But when I don’t have time for that, I love a good sitcom or a funny movie and have a good laugh. When the weather is nice, it's cigars and port out on the deck, and Friday night is always Margaritaville!”

    Now see, this is why I’m not running a commercial kitchen. I’d be in the margaritas way before Friday night.

    If you’ve ever eaten at Haven, it’s like dining in heaven. So you wouldn’t think chef Randy Evans would have a lot of stress.

    “Ha,” he scoffs. “I just walk away and walk through the restaurant’s garden.”

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    And the next set of answers takes Houston chefs even further from the chef enfant terrible stereotype.

    Soren Pedersen at Sorrel Urban Bistro says he handles stress by: “Meeting challenges with as much anticipation as possible and not overreacting to things that don’t matter.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen.

    “Also my philosophy is that if I need to yell or scream to get things done, I have not put the right team together," Pedersen says. "Otherwise a cold beer after the night’s craziness always brings things in perspective. Every day is a new day!”

    And from philosophy to prayer:

    “Before, I used to eat when I was stressed,” says Ooh La La pastry queen Vanessa O’Donnell. “But since October, I have been going to the gym to a spinning class. It works much better and is obviously better for me.

    "I also am a woman of faith and it gives me peace of mind knowing that God will never give me anything that I can’t handle and if He'll bring me to it, He’ll get me through it.”

    Over at the hot Hawthorn, chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio agrees.

    “For me it’s prayer. Prayer focuses me on the One who keeps me in the palm of His hand. God is peace.”

    Apparently Houston chefs are in better physical shape and are more spiritual than others, which must be why Houston is such a hot restaurant scene.

    Oh, and they cook really well, too.

    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the about to be Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.

    Photo by © Michelle Watson CultureMapSNAP.com
    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the about to be Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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