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    Food for Thought

    Chefs screaming, throwing knives and attacking food: How Houston's best stack up to TV stereotypes

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 9, 2013 | 4:41 pm

    Did you see the Cheezburger humor site post with a shot of a chef opening a walk-in cooler that reads “Walk-in Cooler: Scream therapy for chefs for over 60 years.”

    Now that’s funny.

    And apparently a lot of chefs thought so as well. There were plenty of commenters who admitted to using the walk-in to release a little kitchen frustration along with the occasional pot smoking and dead body storage. I’m pretty sure that last one was a joke.

    Anyway, running a commercial kitchen is not for the faint of heart. On your feet slaving over a hot line for 14-hour days, dealing with bitchy customers, short handed and exhausted, it can be a bit of a stressor.

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    Anyone who watches food reality TV or reads memoirs like The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness, and the Making of a Great Chef by original bad boy celebrity British chef Marco Pierre White, knows how some chefs handle the pressure. In his memoir, the enfant terrible of the kitchen recounts a scene where he threw an entire cheese plate, cheese by cheese onto the wall by the pass and left the cheeses there, stuck to the wall, because the waiter had not cut one of the pieces to his liking.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen. Not in Texas anyway.

    For the most part, Houston’s hot chefs are pretty mellow. Maybe it’s just the Texas way, but with the exception of one or two, most of our chefs just roll with the punches.

    How do they do it?

    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the soon-to-open Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.

    Exercise, in fact, seems to be a recurring theme to keep local chefs from throwing knives and pots at staff and customers.

    “I love to ride my bike,” says Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Cafe. “And I go to spinning class in the mornings. I have learned to make time to do this because it keeps me centered and happy.”

    Ditto for a local corporate executive chef.

    “For me, the gym is the best,” says Dan Phalen of Luby’s/Fuddruckers. “But when I don’t have time for that, I love a good sitcom or a funny movie and have a good laugh. When the weather is nice, it's cigars and port out on the deck, and Friday night is always Margaritaville!”

    Now see, this is why I’m not running a commercial kitchen. I’d be in the margaritas way before Friday night.

    If you’ve ever eaten at Haven, it’s like dining in heaven. So you wouldn’t think chef Randy Evans would have a lot of stress.

    “Ha,” he scoffs. “I just walk away and walk through the restaurant’s garden.”

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    And the next set of answers takes Houston chefs even further from the chef enfant terrible stereotype.

    Soren Pedersen at Sorrel Urban Bistro says he handles stress by: “Meeting challenges with as much anticipation as possible and not overreacting to things that don’t matter.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen.

    “Also my philosophy is that if I need to yell or scream to get things done, I have not put the right team together," Pedersen says. "Otherwise a cold beer after the night’s craziness always brings things in perspective. Every day is a new day!”

    And from philosophy to prayer:

    “Before, I used to eat when I was stressed,” says Ooh La La pastry queen Vanessa O’Donnell. “But since October, I have been going to the gym to a spinning class. It works much better and is obviously better for me.

    "I also am a woman of faith and it gives me peace of mind knowing that God will never give me anything that I can’t handle and if He'll bring me to it, He’ll get me through it.”

    Over at the hot Hawthorn, chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio agrees.

    “For me it’s prayer. Prayer focuses me on the One who keeps me in the palm of His hand. God is peace.”

    Apparently Houston chefs are in better physical shape and are more spiritual than others, which must be why Houston is such a hot restaurant scene.

    Oh, and they cook really well, too.

    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the about to be Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.

    Photo by © Michelle Watson CultureMapSNAP.com
    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the about to be Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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