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    something's cooking

    Former Houston chef rebrands with casual new Hill Country bistro

    John Egan
    Jan 11, 2021 | 4:33 pm

    An acclaimed former local chef is tantalizing the Austin-area restaurant scene with a new eatery in Wimberley.

    Chef Ryan Hildebrand stunned Houston in November 2019 when he exited his famed FM Kitchen & Bar. Now a newly minted Wimberley resident, Hildebrand is collaborating with two childhood buddies on Hildee’s Dine-Inn, with the name incorporating his and his grandfather’s nicknames. Hildebrand describes the concept as a “Hill Country bistro.”

    “I can’t really think of a word other than bistro that leaves it open to interpretation. I don’t love the word bistro, but it gives you the ability to do everything,” Hildebrand tells CultureMap. “I used to call it a smokehouse, but people would immediately think that it’s a barbecue restaurant. And that’s not what it is at all.”

    Hildebrand says he and his wife and their two young daughters settled in Wimberley after regularly visiting the Hill Country town as a getaway destination when they lived in Houston.

    The chef has been working as hospitality consultant since his departure from FM Kitchen & Bar. He and his business partners purchased an undeveloped 1.6-acre plot in Wimberley a little over a year ago as a potential restaurant site. Today, Hildebrand is juggling this new venture and his consulting projects.

    “I’m at a point in my career where I really wanted to step back into the kitchen a little more and get back to the roots of why I started all of this,” says Hildebrand, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.

    Renderings for Hildee’s, which will be on Winters Mill Parkway near Blue Hole Regional Park and Cypress Creek, show a no-nonsense rectangular structure with a rustic-looking brown exterior, a large outdoor porch, and a minimalist interior supplying plenty of natural light pouring through large windows.

    Austin-based Maker Architects is designing the restaurant. The firm’s other work includes Vinaigrette, the South Congress and Kimber SOCO hotels, and Central Machine Works.

    Hildebrand says the restaurant, with more than 5,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space, will feature a full kitchen as well as a full bar with cocktails, wine, and beer. It’s being geared toward brunch, lunch, and dinner service, as well as small private events like wedding rehearsal dinners.

    Hildee’s menu will marry inspiration from both FM Kitchen & Bar and Triniti, the now-shuttered high-end Houston eatery where Hildebrand was chef. The new Wimberley spot will blend the laidback vibe of a smokehouse with touches of fine dining, Hildebrand says.

    “I don’t want it to be uncomfortable. It’s very casual, very comfortable — just like Wimberley,” he says. “I really wanted to do something that worked well in Wimberley, that people can enjoy when they’re coming off the river or they’re camping and hiking or they want to have a nicer dinner.”

    Items on the Hildee’s menu will include soup, salad, steak, brisket, smoked salmon, trout, quail, venison, fajitas, black pepper potato muffins, and burnt-ends rangoon. Hildebrand also plans to offer weekend picnic baskets packed with foods like fried chicken and fixins.

    “We’re doing a style of restaurant that nobody else is doing out there,” Hildebrand says.

    Construction on Hildee’s is tentatively set to start in February, with the restaurant on track for a July or August opening, according to Hildebrand. The restaurant, staffed by roughly two dozen people, will operate Wednesday through Sunday.

    Austin's Maker Architects is leading the design.

    Hildee\u2019s Dine-Inn rendering
    Rendering courtesy of Maker Architects
    Austin's Maker Architects is leading the design.
    hill-country
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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