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    Karma is a Biscuit

    Houston's Sugar Hooker fires back with a very special pop-up

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 5, 2018 | 12:12 pm

    Rebecca Masson isn’t the type of person to get mad. She gets even.

    The chef-owner of Fluff Bake Bar (affectionately known as the Sugar Hooker for the tempting nature of her baked goods) has been leading a social media campaign to compel Eater Houston to remove her Midtown bakery from an article titled “Houston’s Saddest Restaurant Closures of 2017.” While the text of the article is correct — Fluff’s dining room has been closed since it was damaged by water from a broken pipe — Masson objects to seeing her restaurant included on a list that also included Oxheart, Holley’s, Bernadine’s, and Triniti.

    “These are all places that have closed and will never come back,” Masson says. “In my mind, the storefront, you can’t come in, but you sort of can. We’ve been doing bake sales. We’ve done holiday pick ups. My business is operating the same as before we had tables and chairs. To me, we’ve never closed.”

    Over a series of posts on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter, Masson has tried to persuade Amy McCarthy, the Dallas-based writer who serves as Eater Houston’s editor, to remove Fluff from the list. She’s drawn support from a wide variety of people including Chronicle food critic Alison Cook, acclaimed San Antonio chef Jason Dady, and the owners of New York’s popular Big Gay Ice Cream. She even nominated Eater Houston for President Trump's "Most Dishonest & Corrupt Media Awards of the Year."

    Mr. Trump, @EaterHouston is a dishonest news outlet damaging the reputation of a well meaning business that routinely works with charities. Including my business w other local business that have closed and mine is not. https://t.co/pwFbysV9jo

    — Fluff Bake Bar (@fluffbakebar)

    January 3, 2018

    Instead of complying with Masson’s request, McCarthy edited her initial text to say Fluff Bake Bar accepts online orders (it doesn’t) and clarified that it will reopen soon. Asked about why she's so upset, Masson says she doesn’t understand why McCarthy never contacted her prior to publishing the article.

    “At this point, somebody at Eater needs to take notice,” Masson says. “She’s not doing her job correctly. I find it so irresponsible. My email is on the website. The phone number to the shop is there. You’re friends with me on Facebook. You can private message me. I will respond to you, as I do any request from the press. She did not make any attempt to reach out to me.”

    Rather than just stay angry about the situation, Masson is responding with a little humor and some sure-to-be-tasty food. Just as she turned a few negative Yelp reviews into a special “Baked With Hate” pop-up, Masson will host a special bake sale that she’s calling “The rumors of our demise have been greatly exaggerated by Eater” that will be held on Saturday from 10 am until noon at Izakaya, Fluff’s next door neighbor (318 Gray at Bagby).

    In collaboration with Izakaya executive chef Jean Philippe Gaston, Masson has created a menu of dishes that includes five dishes: Ph’eux News Pho made with Izakaya’s housemade spam; Karma is a Biscuit (steak, eggs, and gravy on a biscuit); Come at the Kouign You Best Not Miss (yuzu-hibiscus kouign amann); There Will be Blood (sausage and potato hash with soft-scrambled eggs); and I Just Came Here for the Show (foie gras caramel popcorns doughnuts). She’s also selling t-shirts that read “Karma is a Biscuit.”

    “I (thought) I should just treat this like those silly yelpers and make fun. Take this pain in the ass thing and turn it around,” Masson says. Screw it. As per usual, I’m taking something ridiculous and turning it into something ridiculously delicious.”

    McCarthy has yet to respond to CultureMap’s request for comment about Masson’s plans, but she has tweeted obliquely about all the criticism she’s received.

    there's really nothing like waking up to a variety of social media messages from people calling you an idiot!

    — Amy McCarthy (@aemccarthy) December 29, 2017

    Maybe McCarthy will make the trip from Dallas for some Ph’eux News Pho and a t-shirt. After all, reasonable people may disagree with the writer's decision to include Fluff in her article, but everyone can agree that kouign amann are delicious.

    Work continues on rebuilding Fluff's dining room.

    Fluff Bake Bar Rebecca Masson construction
      
    Fluff Bake Bar/Facebook
    Work continues on rebuilding Fluff's dining room.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 471 and 472

    Texas Monthly's BBQ Snob dishes on the magazine's new top 50 list

    CultureMap Staff
    Jun 6, 2025 | 5:41 pm
    Texas Monthly's BBQ Snob dishes on the magazine's new top 50 list
    Texas Monthly's BBQ Snob dishes on the magazine's new top 50 list
    Texas Monthly's BBQ Snob dishes on the magazine's new top 50 list

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the magazine’s new list of the 50 best barbecue joints in Texas. Seven Houston-area restaurants made the list, led by Truth BBQ at No. 9.



    What may surprise Houstonians is which barbecue joints made Texas Monthly’s list. Familiar names like Feges BBQ, Blood Bros. BBQ, and Killen’s Barbecue have been relegated from the top 50 to an honorable mentions list. In their place are newer restaurants such as Bar-A BBQ in Montgomery, Rosemeyer Bar-B-Q in Spring, and Brisket & Rice in Cypress.

    The two writers discuss what stood about the new Houston restaurants on the list, as well as the honorable mentions. Vaughn shares that Roegels Barbecue Co. in Briargrove almost made the top 50 based on a strong meal he had there. Sandler asks Vaughn whether the magazine felt compelled to choose between Blood Bros. and Brisket & Rice, since they’re both serving an Asian-influenced take on Texas barbecue.

    “It wasn’t about two different places serving similar cuisines. With Blood Bros., the things I love about them are really not their straight up sliced brisket, pork ribs, and sausage,” Vaughn says. “In comparing those items with others in the area, it didn’t seem fair to our readers to send them there saying it’s one of the 50 best barbecue restaurants. All things considered, it’s one of the 50 restaurants I’d want to go to eat barbecue, but maybe some of the specials — the banh mi, the boudain, the pho-strami, that sandwich was an absolute revelation. Comparing the barbecue with a place like Brisket & Rice, the brisket, ribs, and sausage were just a little better than Blood Bros.”

    After a thorough discussion of the Houston newcomers, Sandler turns to a few statewide questions. Tune in to hear Vaughn’s explanation for why Snow’s BBQ in Lexington and Franklin Barbecue in Austin — arguably the two most famous Texas barbecue joints in the world — moved out of the ranked top 10 and into the alphabetized top 50. They also discuss the restaurants that made the top three: Burnt Bean Co. in Seguin, LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue in Austin, and Goldee’s Barbecue in Fort Worth.

    The conversation concludes with a look ahead to the magazine’s best new list that will be published in 2027 as well as Vaughn’s thoughts on the Houston barbecue pop-up that would have a strong shot at the top 50 if it ever begins serving food at least once per week.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Since Fulmer is a co-founder of the Houston BBQ Festival, he has his own thoughts on the Texas Monthly list. He and Sandler also discuss the reopening of Cecil’s Pub.



    In the restaurants of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler share first impressions of Silk Road, the dim sum restaurant in a West U. hotel that’s generating a lot of buzz. They conclude by talking about Doko, the new sushi restaurant in Autry Park from the chefs behind Handies Douzo and Aiko.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Daniel Vaughn Texas Monthly
      

    Courtesy of Texas Monthly

    Daniel Vaughn is this week's guest.

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