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    Texas travel

    A quintessential Texas road trip to Shiner beckons with beer and barbecue

    Melissa Gaskill
    Dec 27, 2021 | 4:01 pm
    Spoetzel Brewery
    No trip to Shiner is complete without a visit to Spoetzel Brewery.
    Photo by Melissa Gaskill

    A koozie in the gift shop at the Spoetzl Brewery demands, “Eat Meat. Drink Beer.” That pretty much sums up any good journey to Shiner, a town about 80 miles southeast of Austin that’s home to roughly 2,000 souls and the famed brewery that produces iconic Shiner beers.

    For the meat, options abound along the route to Shiner. For lunch, consider a stop in Lockhart for some of Central Texas’ best barbecue. There’s Smitty’s Market, where the line starts right next to the open pit and the ’cue is served on sheets of paper, old-school style, like all the best Texas barbecue. (Smitty’s also serves Shiner beer, but the eatery only takes cash, so come prepared.)

    Other celebrated Lockhart options include Black’s Barbecue and Kruez Market. There’s also City Market (it’s cash only here, too) and Luling Barbq, literally across the street from each other in the town of Luling.

    The beer part of this adventure, naturally, happens most deliciously in Shiner. Czech and German immigrants founded a brewery here in 1909 after discovering artesian water. Bavarian Kosmos Spoetzel bought the operation, named it for himself, and continued using traditional methods as its brewmaster from 1914 to 1950. Today, Spoetzel is one of the largest independent craft brewers in the country, selling beers in all 50 states and Mexico, every drop of it brewed here.

    That water is key, says Jimmy Mauric, current brewmaster.

    “Beer is 93 percent water, so the local water makes Shiner special,” he explains. “The water is pristine, not chlorinated, and we use the well water only for our beers and seltzers.”

    Other ingredients used at the brewery include roasted barley malt grain, a special blend of hops, and three types of yeast, including two proprietary strains. For its seasonal beers, the brewery sources special ingredients, like peaches and dewberries, locally as much as possible.

    A tour of the brewery is a must. Tour packages start at $15 for guests 21 and older, $10 for guests younger than 21, and run approximately every hour, from 11 am Monday through Saturday and 1 pm Sunday. The last tour is at 4 pm every day.

    You’ll be treated to a history video, a stop by a kitchen where the guide explains the beer-making process, a peek at shiny copper fermenters, and a wall of caps from all retired employees since the company started recording keeping. Plus, you’ll get a brief visit to a mock fermentation tank to check out a creative video on that process and the tiny yeast that power it.

    A viewing deck overlooks the massive bottling line where the iconic brown bottles travel on moving conveyor belts, piling up like traffic on I-35. The last stop is a classic honky-tonk-style bar, walls covered with historic photographs and a display case of the different seasonal special beers the brewery has released throughout the years.

    The tour ends with beer tastings — which you will definitely crave by this time — and visitors can purchase a pint (or two) of their favorites while enjoying a respite at one of the onsite picnic tables on the sprawling lawn outside.

    Other local must-visit stops include Howard’s, at 1701 N. Avenue East, which looks like the typical corner gas station convenience store in every small town, but actually offers many wonders, including beers on draft and a charming biergarten out back that often features live music.

    Choose from several hundred beers at Antiques, Arts and Beer, each served with complimentary peanuts and popcorn. The historic 1911 building features tin and barnwood walls, art and antiques, and, out back, a pet-friendly covered deck.

    Shiner’s Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church is worth a photo stop. The red brick Romanesque Revival-style church, dedicated in 1921 and listed in the National Registry of Historic Places, features a dramatic altar backed by a painted mural, statues, and stained-glass windows. Take a look inside, and feel free to offer up a prayer of thanks for Shiner beer.

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    news/travel
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    LATE CHECKOUT

    These 2 haunted Texas hotels promise a spirited overnight stay

    Brandon Watson
    Oct 23, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Hotel Emily Morgan
    The Emily Morgan Hotel/ Facebook
    The Emily Morgan is steps away from the Alamo.

    If you hear something knocking during a vacation in San Antonio, it might not be housekeeping. Two of the city's downtown landmark hotels — the Gunter and the Emily Morgan — have been named among the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s 25 most haunted hotels in the U.S.

    Each year, the nonprofit’s Historic Hotels of America program recognizes iconic properties where things are said to go bump in the night. It’s a playful way to highlight the organization’s work to preserve the nation’s diverse historic buildings and neighborhoods, whether one believes in the supernatural or not. The San Antonio pair were the only Texas properties to earn the hair-raising honors.

    “The list invites heritage and cultural travelers to discover historic hotels where lore and legends make for memorable stays,” explained the trust in a release. “For believers and skeptics alike, these one-of-a-kind hotels preserve tales of guests who never want to leave and staff who never stopped helping.”

    The Emily Morgan returned to the list after a year’s reprieve (maybe someone forgot this year’s blessing). The trust noted that the 102-year-old building is considered one of North America’s most active paranormal sites, owing to its original use as a medical building. Carved grotesques on the facade writhe from tooth pain and stomachaches. Inside, spectral nurses are said to be still providing care.

    “On the fourteenth floor, guests have reported a hospital-like smell and, on rare occasions, visions of a hospital scene rather than their guestroom when they open the door from the hallway,” wrote Historic Hotels. “On the twelfth floor, guests have reported bathroom doors opening and closing on their own, lights flashing, and apparitions of nurses pushing rickety gurneys down the corridor before vanishing.”

    Gunter Hotel Not pictured: Gunter's resident shadowy figure.Photo by Daniel Kelleghan Photography

    Although medical manifestations are unsettling enough, the other San Antonio hotel on the list has a more gruesome claim to fame. Built in 1909, the Gunter Hotel boasts a room that is only slightly less notorious than The Shining’s Room 237. Room 636 was the site of one of Alamo City’s most famous murders.

    In 1965, a housekeeper found ex-con Walter Emerick standing beside a blood-soaked bed. Police found empty wine bottles, bloody footprints, strands of blonde hair, and women’s clothing, but never found the body. Emerick left a psychic stain all over downtown, booking it to the St. Anthony’s room 536 (he reportedly asked to stay in 636 again), where he offed himself before arrest. The Gunter never quite recovered from his brief stay.

    “Since the 1960s, guests and staff have reported unsettling phenomena, including unexplained cold spots, flickering lights, and faint whispers or footsteps when no one is present,” said Historic Hotels. “Some claim to have seen a shadowy figure lingering near the doorway or caught the faint scent of cigar smoke despite the hotel’s smoking prohibition.”

    Still, the dark specters have not kept the Gunter from receiving another honor this year. Historic Hotels recently named it the Best City Center Historic Hotel, given to the property that “best celebrates its history in the guest experience and provides exceptional customer hospitality and service.”

    Both of San Antonio’s haunted hotels have largely embraced their eerie reputations. The Emily Morgan proudly touts its mysterious occurrences on one of its webpages. The Gunter glosses over some of the more grisly details of room 636 on its own page, and assures guests the room has since been remodeled.

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    news/travel

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