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    Head West

    What to see — and skip — on a magical West Texas journey to Marfa

    Justine Harrington
    Dec 13, 2019 | 3:21 pm

    Marfa. Mythical creative mecca? Starkly gentrified desert town that attracts hipsters like flies to artisanal honey? Far-flung West Texas oasis that seems more like a film set than a functioning town?

    In a relatively short amount of time, Marfa has been through several transformations, and, for better or worse, in its current manifestation, it’s become a place where you can order $40 beef tongue carpaccio and then sip $2 Lone Star tallboys with the rancher whose cow you just ate. While there’s no denying that it’s now a major destination for art-world tourists, underneath the hip, artsy sheen, Marfa retains its quirky, dusty, small-town soul.

    Here’s what to see — and what to skip — when you make the magical trek out west.

    See

    Ballroom Marfa
    Showcasing regularly changing exhibits of visual art, music, and film, Ballroom Marfa is a must-see gallery. Housed in a converted old dancehall, this offbeat space is the heart of Marfa’s contemporary art scene (next to Chinati, that is).

    Lost Horse Saloon
    If you want your non-Texan friends to think they’ve had a real adventure, take them to the Lost Horse Saloon, where you’re bound to see as many cowboy hat-clad locals as tourists. Though Marfa isn’t short on glitzy drinking establishments, the Lost Horse offers true dive vibes: think $1 drafts on Thursdays, free pool, rustic wood-paneled walls, saddles, and taxidermy.

    The Marfa Lights Viewing Center
    Though it may seem cheesy at first, trying to catch a glimpse of the famed Marfa Lights is all part of the Marfa experience. Cozy up with a travel mug of whiskey coffee, and keep your eyes peeled for the ghostly orbs that dance and shimmer on the horizon line between the prairie and the mountains.

    Hotel Paisano
    This historic, charming property — where Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean camped out during the filming of the 1956 classic Giant — is still the coolest hotel in town. With its Mediterranean-style outdoor fountain and courtyard, classic Texan ranch decor, and retro-chic vibes, the Hotel Paisano is a stately relic of Marfa’s past.

    INDE/Jacobs
    Artist Donald Judd was hell-bent on creating inventive exhibition spaces in Marfa, and this minimalist gallery continues Judd’s legacy into the present, with its clever, sculptural shape and sleek design touches.

    Ayn Foundation
    If you’re in town on a weekend, be sure to stop by the Ayn Foundation to see The Last Supper by Andy Warhol — there’s nothing as disorienting as seeing a giant, wall-sized Warhol in a tiny, remote Texas town.

    Marfa Book Company
    In the lobby of the Hotel Saint George, the Marfa Book Company boasts an incredibly well-curated selection of art and architecture books, poetry journals, and local fiction, plus cool prints, apothecary products and housewares for sale.

    The Sentinel
    The former home of funky bar Padre's is now the headquarters of the area's oldest newspaper, the Big Bend Sentinel, as well as an all-day gathering space for coffee, cocktails, and community. The paper's new owners, who acquired it this year, opened The Sentinel as a means to connect the community to the newspaper in a new way and further the mission of local, independent journalism.

    The Chinati Foundation (self-guided viewing)
    Marfa’s main attraction is well worth your time, of course. Judd left his imprint on the landscape with the Chinati Foundation, a 340-acre former military base that now houses works by Judd, Dan Flavin, John Chamberlain, and other contemporary artists. It’s free to see the outdoor works and $10 for self-guided viewing of select indoor works.

    Skip

    Prada Marfa
    Hate us if you want, but Prada Marfa is 100 percent skippable. The Insta-famous art installation is cool, sure, but most people drive all the way out there (it’s 30 minutes from Marfa, in Valentine), spend five minutes snapping jumping selfies, then leave. You’re better off spending more time in town — or driving to Big Bend National Park.

    Freda
    If you’re in the market for a $460 silver cuff or a $690 blue geode ring, by all means, pay a visit to Freda, a “concept and lifestyle store.” Otherwise, feel free to skip this pricey shop and go inhale burritos at the beloved Marfa Burrito next door.

    Renting bikes at El Cosmico
    Yes, Beyonce once rode around Marfa on an El Cosmico bike, and a horde of influencers followed suit. Yet, wandering aimlessly on foot is the best way to get a feel for this eclectic town, with its surreal visual wonders and strange nooks and crannies that can make you feel like you’re trapped in a dream.

    The tour of Chinati/Judd Foundation
    Unless you’re a diehard Judd head, it’s cool to skip the full-day and half-day tours of Chinati (opting for self-guided viewing, instead), and the same goes for the Judd Foundation, which offers public tours of Judd’s Marfa studios and home.

    Chinati, Marfa’s main attraction, is well worth your time.

    Marfa, TX/Chinati Foundation
    Photo courtesy of Kit and Ace
    Chinati, Marfa’s main attraction, is well worth your time.
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    1. tree-mendously stylish

    New, art-filled boutique hotel debuts in Houston with bold vintage flair

    Emily Cotton
    Dec 5, 2025 | 1:59 pm
    Hotel Daphne lobby
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

    Taking one step beyond the threshold of the new Hotel Daphne in the Heights is — in a word — transformative. Layered with handcrafted details, various textiles, warm-natured tones, and vintage and custom pieces that embrace contemporary whimsy, Houston’s newest property from Austin-based company Bunkhouse Hotels has truly outdone itself.

    The five story, 49-room property features an all-day restaurant called Hypsi, along with a picturesque walled-courtyard, jewel-box library, lobby retail shop, and a perfectly-curated art collection that could easily rival the best galleries. Those looking to make a splash will be delighted to know that a pool, dedicated outdoor bar, and 10 poolside bungalow suites are currently in the works to open in the spring of 2027. Hotel Daphne is Bunkhouse’s second Houston property, joining the Hotel Saint Augustine that opened in Montrose in 2024 and earned a prestigious Michelin Key in October.

    Setting itself apart from other new build properties, Hotel Daphne has taken painstakingly-precise care not to have disturbed the numerous mature Live Oak trees surrounding the building, giving the hotel a “we’ve always been here” quality that locals can appreciate. Those very trees inspired the hotel’s name, after Daphne of Greek mythology, who famously changed herself into a laurel tree and represents allure and restraint.

    “With Hotel Daphne, we set out to create a project that bridges Houston Heights’ eclectic energy with its residential roots to seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscape,” Timothy Blanchard, founder, principal architect, Blanchard A+D tells CultureMap. “Drawing on the area’s commercial and historic cues, we shaped the building around large heritage oak trees to create a place that feels welcoming, restrained, and quietly refined.”

    The hotel’s exterior features stepped parapets, dark steel sash windows, and soft gray shutters that bridge the scale between neighboring bungalows and historic industrial structures. Local landscape firm McDugald Steele rounds out the exteriors team with lush selections befitting the building and playing nicely with native surroundings, while giving nods to the Heights’ architectural charm and its origins as a utopian society founded in the 1890’s.

    Bunkhouse designed the interiors in-house, with 80 percent of the furniture and decor designed and selected during the initial design phase, leaving the remaining 20 percent to be selected post buildout. Select pieces like the show-stopping, circular modular sofa in the lobby, were sourced during the recent Round Top Fall Antiques Show. Situated beneath a vintage Murano chandelier, the sofa’s striped linen has been swapped for a more commercial-friendly Gem Velvet from Brentano, while the exposed sides have been dressed in a playfully-patterned Bargello from Nobilis. Suffice it to say: she’s Instagram-ready.

    “We always like to keep a healthy mix of vintage. When everything is custom or off the shelf, the end result can feel planned, prescriptive, and a little too perfect. Leaving room for the unplanned is where a dose of magic happens,” explains Tenaya Hills, head of design for Bunkhouse Hotels and JdV by Hyatt. “If you use up every inch of space with things you decided months before, you lose the creativity that hits you while you’re out shopping for vintage, or even when you’re sitting around with your team in the finished space thinking, ‘Okay, what does this space actually need?’ And also — it’s just fun.”

    A right turn off of the lobby leads to Hotel Daphne’s library. Absolutely drenched in a gorgeous, high-gloss blue, the impressive cabinets and bookcases house everything from books to ceramics and found objects — feel free to grab a book off the shelf and get cozy. Grounded by a handwoven rug by Shame Studios, the library offers three custom tables for gaming, providing an onyx chess set, marble checkers, and one table left bare for board games or other amusements. The library’s French doors can be closed off for private events, meetings, and dinners as well.

    Rounding out the first floor, Italian-style restaurant Hypsi, led by two-time James Beard Award nominee Terrence Gallivan, nods to the area’s Prohibition-era supper club history. Opulent and playful details include a blueberry lava stone bar outfitted with leather Cassina chairs, an indoor fireplace framed by an antique mantel, banquettes piled with psychedelic pillows, vintage Gerli chairs reupholstered in velvet, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti.

    Hypsi’s adjoining vine-wrapped courtyard and Hotel Daphne patio offer outdoor dining. Playful Gubi patio furniture, paired with vintage, mosaic-tiled tables hand-painted to depict nymphs and the like, is available for more informal lounging. Remember those books in the library? Pair one with a cocktail or coffee while taking in an afternoon breeze.

    The remaining four floors are all guest rooms. Hotel Daphne offers a robust selection of double-queen rooms and single-king rooms, with both configurations available in ADA options. Select rooms, like the Terrace King Rooms, offer outdoor balconies. The Terrace King Premiere is 890 square feet, featuring a king bed, lounge area, workspace, and a terrace with dining and lounge furniture — perfect for entertaining a small group outdoors.

    Larger groups may opt for one of the two suites. The Balcony Suite is 850 square feet, featuring a king bed, a bistro table with seating, a parlor room with lounge area, dining table for six, wet bar, and a Juliet balcony. The Penthouse Suite is 1,150 square feet, featuring two rooms with king beds, plus a lounge area, a parlor room, dining table for eight, lounge area, wet bar, and two bathrooms. The Penthouse Suite is a three-key suite and each space can be booked individually.

    Guest rooms feature custom upholstered beds with floral velvet headboards inspired by Trebah Gardens. In fact, the fabric itself is Trebah Velvet by Osborne & Little.

    “We love that fabric and it brought exactly the mood we were looking for,” explains Hills. “Against the room’s more classic backdrop, we wanted an element that felt a little trippy and not-so-perfect, something that captured the spirit of the hotel. The pattern has this dreamy, slightly surreal quality that lets a subtle, ethereal, almost acid trip note come through. The hotel takes inspiration from the Heights’ beginnings as a planned utopian community, but we’ve layered in its history of 1930s clandestine drinking culture and the patina of time to a home that would have occurred on that original idealism. Trebah felt like the perfect way to thread those stories together, refined on the surface, with a little fray underneath.”

    The beds are all dressed in luxe Sferra linens (bath towels are also Sferra), and rooms are additionally outfitted with mohair seating, Arts & Crafts-style credenzas, plus natural stone tables and vintage finds. Adjoining bathrooms are wrapped in rich green Fireclay tiles that play magnificently with onyx vanities. Hotel Daphne’s signature amenities are by Dr. Vranjes of Florence, Italy, and are available for purchase in the lobby’s gift shop, including its signature scent, Dr. Vranjes’ Onyx Rose Tobacco.

    Also available in the gift shop are Hotel Daphne’s signature guest room robes. Collecting robes from Bunkhouse properties has become somewhat of a thing, to say the least.

    “Bunkhouse has a tradition of creating a custom robe for every property, says Hills. “Daphne’s robe was inspired by vintage men’s pajamas, designed to bring a masculine touch to balance the softer, feminine details throughout the rooms. Its striped pattern and colorway were directly drawn from the Trebah Velvet fabric used on the headboards. This connection makes the robe feel distinct but fully integrated with the overall guest room palette.”

    If the carpeting looks familiar, it’s not a trick of the mind. The spaces not clad in brass-inlaid, herringbone wood floors are swathed in patterned carpeting inspired by William Morris’ iconic “Strawberry Thief” pattern, but adjusted and created using AI — that’s certainly one way to mix old with new.

    In an interesting twist to Bunkhouse tradition, a substantial portion of the art on display is held in a private collection. Hotel owner Ben Ackerley and his father will rotate select pieces from the Ackerley Family Collection for guests of the hotel to enjoy. Bunkhouse art director Dina Pugh sourced works by Austin-based painter Alexandra Valenti that are on display in the guest rooms and hallways.

    An additional 160 works of art in the property belong to the Ackerley Family Collection. In January of this year, Hesse McGraw, formerly executive director of Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, came on as Hotel Daphne’s art director. Find works by Vernon Fisher and Kent Dorn on display in the hotel’s lobby, plus artists Kelli Vance and Dorothy Hood on view in the library. The giant Matt Kleberg overlooking the dining room at Hypsi is on loan from Houston’s Hiram Butler Gallery until January, when a commissioned work by the same artist will be completed. The untitled work will be difficult to miss with its 15’ x 8’ stature.

    Ackerley believes that sharing his family’s collection with the city will benefit living, Texas-based artists in a myriad of ways, especially by putting them in front of other potential collectors.

    “99-percent of collectors have no relation to the artists. They look at it as an investment and have no emotional connection to the work or the person behind it,” says Ackerley. “Whereas, we collect people we hang out with. We support living, contemporary Texas artists, and 80-percent of what you’ll see in this hotel is that — there is plenty of cool art.”

    Bunkhouse was purchased by Hyatt Hotels in October 2024, but there are no signs of Hyatt branding in the hotel. The plus is that rooms can be booked with points through Hyatt’s rewards program. Rooms at Hotel Daphne begin at $359 per night.

    Hotel Daphne lobby

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

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