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    Off the beaten path? What path?

    Devils advocate: Solitude is set ablaze in West Texas desert oasis

    Stephan Lorenz
    Jun 11, 2011 | 10:11 am
    • Ferns grow in cool places, where springs flow from the canyon walls.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The region lies in a transitional zone where the Hill Country to the east gradesinto the Chihuahuan Desert to the west.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Devils River is popular with canoeists and kayakers.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • There are many reminders within the park that this used to be a working ranch.Many of the rugged canyons protect Native American archeological sites.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Springs pour millions of gallons of the purest water into the river year-round.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Devils River forms an oasis in this otherwise arid country.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Within the park, about one mile of river is accessible.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Over 20 miles along winding gravel will bring visitors to the heart of thissparsely settled country.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Today the park is surrounded by private land.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Loma Alta is the closest service station, but offers just the basics.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The vegetation is surprisingly lush within the floodplain of Dolan Creek.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • It’s a long haul west from Houston to reach the remote Devils River StateNatural Area.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The few trails in the state natural area are open to hiking and mountain biking.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    We couldn’t say that we hadn’t been warned. The place was remote — a long, long way out there. Seven hours into the drive, with darkness falling quickly, we experienced it firsthand: Devils River State Natural Area is definitely off the beaten path.

    No wonder less than 1,000 visitors a year find themselves among the stark canyons, wilderness vistas and refreshing springs. It’s a pack-it-in, carry-it-out kind of place. But those who do make the long trip are rewarded with solitude, peaceful camping, and empty swimming holes.

    Far, far away from those city lights

    After a long day hauling west, we hadn’t even yet arrived ourselves. Running out of daylight along U.S. Route 277, we eventually turned onto the caliche of Dolan Creek Road in the dark. The rough gravel track wound through 22 miles of increasingly rugged country toward the state natural area.

    Stars were ablaze above black hills by the time we set up camp. The park ranger, still working at 10 p.m., informed us that it was going to be a 'busy' weekend, with at least four other campers present.

    “Busy” and “crowded” took on another definition out here.

    The park encompasses nearly 20,000 acres of dense brush, limestone cliffs, plateaus, and springs that form an oasis in the desert. Hidden among rugged terrain are many archeological sites, including caves with pictographs, open only by reserved tour.

    About one mile of riverfront is accessible within the park, offering a put-in for paddlers, swimmers and fishermen.

    The devil's in the details

    Since the forecast called for 104 degrees, we wasted no time the next morning in making our way to the river. To decrease the impact on the ecologically fragile area, visitors must hike to the river along a gravel road. The lure of cold springs and deep swimming holes put a spring in our step, belying the heat baking the mesquite flats around us.

    Upon seeing the narrow ribbon of water from high rimrock, the early explorer Colonel John Coffee Hays exclaimed that it looked like "the devil’s river" to him. The name stuck.

    Today, it's recognized as one of the last free-flowing rivers in Texas, with some of the cleanest water in the world. It flows unhindered for 94 miles, through sparsely settled Val Verde County before emptying into Amistad Reservoir. It has a 40-mile floatable stretch, frequented by canoeists and kayakers.

    Quenching the thirst for nature

    We wandered upstream and soon found several springs flowing from the steep cliffs — some of which poured 22,000 gallons of water a minute into the river. We filled bottles with pure water spilling from fern-lined grottoes.

    A little further upriver stood a grove of stately oaks and sycamores, and we waited out the peak of the afternoon heat there. Listening to frogs calling sporadically over the constant gurgle of water made it easy to lounge for a couple of hours.

    Strong winds and solid cloud cover on day two allowed us to hike in the desert. The park has a few shorter trails, and a 12-mile loop open for mountain biking and hiking.

    We tackled a short section along Dolan Creek that passed through brushland and ended at an impressive pecan grove. In sync with the wilderness character of the park, the majority of trails are poorly maintained, so be prepared.

    Know before you go

    Before visiting the park, it is necessary to make camping reservations. Keep in mind that summer temperatures are extremely high — bring enough food and water.

    Dolan Creek Road can close during flash floods, so be sure to get updates on current conditions. If driving from Houston, gas up in Rocksprings. The closest gas station at Loma Alta doesn’t offer more than a few sodas and sketchy bathrooms.

    It’s a long way, so once you’re out at the natural area, spend a few nights and enjoy the solitude.

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    Riverside Reno

    Fresh makeover turns Hill Country hotel into modern riverside refuge

    Brianna Caleri
    Jun 12, 2025 | 2:36 pm
    Hacienda Del Rio Hotel and Bar
    Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio\u200b
    No matter how cosmopolitan the hotel gets, nothing can beat the trees around this pool.

    After a two-year renovation and rebranding, Hacienda Del Rio Hotel and Bar has opened in Gruene, a historic district within New Braunfels. Formerly the Gruene Outpost River Lodge, the property along the Guadalupe River now has 48 renovated rooms, new outdoor sports like pickleball, and updated amenities at the pool.

    The River Lodge's previous aesthetic was DIY and rustic, but the new Hacienda Del Rio has a much more cosmopolitan, contemporary design. The new look is full of midcentury styles, but with other eclectic elements mixed in. A press release declares the space was "designed in the spirit of Spanish colonial architecture," but don't expect anything old-fashioned.

    Hacienda Del Rio\u200b Hotel and Bar interiorThese earthy tones mellow out an otherwise energetic space.Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio

    Texas-based hotel group French Cowboys was behind this major makeover, which started in April 2023. That puts Hacienda Del Rio in a family with Camp Comfort and The Meyer Hotel in the Hill Country town of Comfort; the Claire Hotel near Canyon Lake; the Gruene River Inn and Heidelberg Lodges in New Braunfels, and Webber East in Austin.

    The Hacienda can accommodate up to 178 guests in a variety of room layouts including kings, double queens, and suites. Bathrooms and showers are new, and rooms are outfitted with smart TVs, plus custom steel doors and windows. Photos of guestrooms, although they are colorful, show off a streamlined sensibility.

    A new clubhouse and cocktail bar draws guests who may not be staying overnight. Coffee and breakfast will be available in the morning, followed by daytime snacks, and finally a full bar in the evening. Anyone who stops by can enjoy beer, wine, and signature cocktails, plus shuffleboard, a pool table, and even some workspace. There will also be a new conference room for presentations, retreats, and more.

    Hacienda Del Rio\u200b Hotel and Bar interiorThis lounge is open to hotel guests and the public.Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio

    Departing from the artsy interior to New Braunfels' beautiful surroundings, guests can play pickleball, beach volleyball, and basketball on a half-court, plus fire pits near the river and kayaks, paddleboards, and floats. River adventures will be facilitated by Paddle Texas, which will offer rentals and experiences. Finally, a renovated pool and deck provide more leisure space.

    “‘Del Rio’ reflects the area’s deep connection to the Guadalupe River, where guests can jump in, float, or just hang out by the water, whether it’s at the river or our pool," said French Cowboys co-founder Dylan Petrich in a press release. "And Hacienda captures our vision of creating a vibrant, social place where people can kick back, enjoy the outdoors, and grab a drink, all in one of the Hill Country’s most iconic destinations, without breaking the bank."

    Rates start at $125 per night, and the food and beverage space is open every day. Introductory rates are available for those who book through December 31, 2025.

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