Off the beaten path? What path?

Devils advocate: Solitude is set ablaze in West Texas desert oasis

Ferns grow in cool places, where springs flow from the canyon walls.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The region lies in a transitional zone where the Hill Country to the east gradesinto the Chihuahuan Desert to the west.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The Devils River is popular with canoeists and kayakers.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
There are many reminders within the park that this used to be a working ranch.Many of the rugged canyons protect Native American archeological sites.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Springs pour millions of gallons of the purest water into the river year-round.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The Devils River forms an oasis in this otherwise arid country.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Within the park, about one mile of river is accessible.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Over 20 miles along winding gravel will bring visitors to the heart of thissparsely settled country.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Today the park is surrounded by private land.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Loma Alta is the closest service station, but offers just the basics.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The vegetation is surprisingly lush within the floodplain of Dolan Creek.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
It’s a long haul west from Houston to reach the remote Devils River StateNatural Area.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The few trails in the state natural area are open to hiking and mountain biking.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz

We couldn’t say that we hadn’t been warned. The place was remote — a long, long way out there. Seven hours into the drive, with darkness falling quickly, we experienced it firsthand: Devils River State Natural Area is definitely off the beaten path.

No wonder less than 1,000 visitors a year find themselves among the stark canyons, wilderness vistas and refreshing springs. It’s a pack-it-in, carry-it-out kind of place. But those who do make the long trip are rewarded with solitude, peaceful camping, and empty swimming holes.

Far, far away from those city lights

After a long day hauling west, we hadn’t even yet arrived ourselves. Running out of daylight along U.S. Route 277, we eventually turned onto the caliche of Dolan Creek Road in the dark. The rough gravel track wound through 22 miles of increasingly rugged country toward the state natural area.

Stars were ablaze above black hills by the time we set up camp. The park ranger, still working at 10 p.m., informed us that it was going to be a 'busy' weekend, with at least four other campers present.

“Busy” and “crowded” took on another definition out here.

The park encompasses nearly 20,000 acres of dense brush, limestone cliffs, plateaus, and springs that form an oasis in the desert. Hidden among rugged terrain are many archeological sites, including caves with pictographs, open only by reserved tour.

About one mile of riverfront is accessible within the park, offering a put-in for paddlers, swimmers and fishermen.

The devil's in the details

Since the forecast called for 104 degrees, we wasted no time the next morning in making our way to the river. To decrease the impact on the ecologically fragile area, visitors must hike to the river along a gravel road. The lure of cold springs and deep swimming holes put a spring in our step, belying the heat baking the mesquite flats around us.

Upon seeing the narrow ribbon of water from high rimrock, the early explorer Colonel John Coffee Hays exclaimed that it looked like "the devil’s river" to him. The name stuck.

Today, it's recognized as one of the last free-flowing rivers in Texas, with some of the cleanest water in the world. It flows unhindered for 94 miles, through sparsely settled Val Verde County before emptying into Amistad Reservoir. It has a 40-mile floatable stretch, frequented by canoeists and kayakers.

Quenching the thirst for nature

We wandered upstream and soon found several springs flowing from the steep cliffs — some of which poured 22,000 gallons of water a minute into the river. We filled bottles with pure water spilling from fern-lined grottoes.

A little further upriver stood a grove of stately oaks and sycamores, and we waited out the peak of the afternoon heat there. Listening to frogs calling sporadically over the constant gurgle of water made it easy to lounge for a couple of hours.

Strong winds and solid cloud cover on day two allowed us to hike in the desert. The park has a few shorter trails, and a 12-mile loop open for mountain biking and hiking.

We tackled a short section along Dolan Creek that passed through brushland and ended at an impressive pecan grove. In sync with the wilderness character of the park, the majority of trails are poorly maintained, so be prepared.

Know before you go

Before visiting the park, it is necessary to make camping reservations. Keep in mind that summer temperatures are extremely high — bring enough food and water.

Dolan Creek Road can close during flash floods, so be sure to get updates on current conditions. If driving from Houston, gas up in Rocksprings. The closest gas station at Loma Alta doesn’t offer more than a few sodas and sketchy bathrooms.

It’s a long way, so once you’re out at the natural area, spend a few nights and enjoy the solitude.

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Hill Country wineries beckon + 9 more Texas travel ideas for June

Photo courtesy of Texas Hill Country Wineries

The Barrels & Bites pass offers Hill Country wine lovers upscale tasting experiences or curated food and wine pairings.

School's out, summer has arrived, and with it comes a bounty of weekend getaway inspiration for Houston travelers.

Travelers on the hunt for the ultimate summer adventure outside of H-Town can head down Austin for a Father's Day barbecue showdown, leap to the coast for a restaurant takeover at a Galveston hotel, or say hello to Maisie the Highland cow at a new farm retreat in Jewett, Texas.

Here are CultureMap's top picks for a June vacation around Texas.

Around Texas

As summer arrives and gas prices remain high, fuel-conscious Texas travelers can book their next road trip with transportation startup Shutto, which recently launched new routes connecting major cities like Dallas, Austin, Houston Galleria, and The Woodlands. Each route includes a pit stop at Buc-ee's — a quintessential road trip moment — and travelers can also book private, customizable trips beyond the scheduled routes. Fares start at $87 per person to Austin and $97 per person to Houston, and trips can be booked online.

Central Texas and the Hill Country

The historic Faust Hotel in New Braunfels has finally completed its thoughtful restoration and reopened its doors for Hill Country travelers. All 45 guest rooms and 15 deluxe suites have been updated with king beds, custom vanities, 55-inch streaming televisions, retro Frigidaire mini-fridges, and much more. The hotel's new signature restaurant, Wilhelm & Werner, mixes Texas and European culinary influences with dishes like an "apple strudel" of foie gras and pork, saffron tagliatelle with Gulf shrimp, and poulet rôti with a savory bread pudding. Nightly rates at the Faust Hotel begin at $215 in June.

Faust Hotel New Braunfels The revamped Faust Hotel blends the property's historic bones with new furnishings. Photo by Jason Risner

A Gonzales County wellness retreat is celebrating its one-year anniversary with a roster of new services, events, workshops , and more to come later this year. Ottine Mineral Springs is now offering private Watsu experiences, a massage performed in the mineral pools by licensed therapists before the general public arrives. The oasis will soon offer poolside cabana rentals, and open a climate-controlled indoor lounge and soaking space. Guests can book day passes (starting at $65), events, and spa services online. Reservations are required.

Limestone Fields, a new farm retreat on Lake Limestone in Jewett, is now accepting reservations for stays on its 16-acre property that sits along Lake Limestone. Guests are welcome to explore the expansive area, which also includes a working farm with chickens, ducks, and two Scottish Highland cows. Limestone Fields hosts 10 furnished cabins with front decks that overlook a pond and back decks that open to the lake. Stays start at $200 a night and usually have a two-night minimum. Prices vary with seasonality.

Maisie the Scottish Highland cow at Limestone Fields Maisie is a miniature Highland cow that lives on the farm.Photo by Ashley Estave

Texas trade organization Texas Hill Country Wineries is offering a new way to experience its participating wineries' vintages with a new Barrels & Bites weekend event pass running from June 12-14. During the weekend, passholders can visit up to four wineries each day for winemaker-led experiences including elevated tastings or curated food and wine pairings. New this year is the Grand Tasting event at Ron Yates in Johnson City on Friday night from 5-7 pm, where passholders and single-ticket holders can try samples from 21 different wineries. Individual passes are $175, couples passes are $300, and single tickets for the Grand Tasting are $35 per person.

Austin

Adventurers can take their barbecue-loving dads for a smoke-filled weekend at Omni Barton Creek Resort & Spa in Austin for Father's Day weekend from June 19-20. The resort will host its second annual barbecue festival, Smoke: A Celebration of Fire and Flavor, bringing together the most prolific pitmasters and acclaimed restaurants for two days of live-fire cooking and live entertainment. The weekend kicks off with a VIP dinner experience on Friday featuring a multicourse meal of elevated barbecue dishes from chefs, and the barbecue showdown will commence Saturday with an open-air tasting event, live music, and a fireworks finale. Weekend bundle passes are $479 per person, with single admission tickets available for each day of the festival.

San Antonio

Magik Theatre, a beloved San Antonio children's performing arts center, is getting ready to for its grand reopening after months of renovations with a celebration party and a performance of The Very Hungry Caterpillar starting Saturday, June 13. The reopening party will feature a ribbon-cutting at Hemisfair Park, plus children's activities, a live DJ, and more. The Party in the Park is free to the public. Tickets for The Very Hungry Caterpillar, which will run until August 2, range from $26.50-$33.50 per person.

On the Gulf Coast

Galveston's seaside refuge Hotel Lucine is hosting the third annual Bludorn by The Sea dining series from June 12-13. Acclaimed Houston chef Aaron Bludorn will stage a two-night takeover of the hotel's on-site restaurant, The Fancy, with a raw bar pop-up from 4-7 pm, and elaborate four-course dinners planned each night. A Courtyard Party will precede Saturday's dinner from 12-3 pm with a yakitori-style grill-out and live music. Dinner reservations for Friday and Saturday ($95 per person) can be booked via OpenTable, and visitors are encouraged to book a stay at the hotel for the weekend.

Dallas-Fort Worth

June brings the arrival of World Cup season, and one Dallas-Fort Worth hotel is making its debut just in time to welcome FIFA fans from all over the world. The retro Caravan Court Hotel in Arlington will open at 205 N. Collins St. on June 1, less than a mile away from AT&T Stadium. The hotel offers 143 luxuriously appointed guest rooms, an in-house restaurant, martini bar, and a rooftop lounge. Room rates begin at $109 per night in June.

Photo courtesy of Texas Hill Country Wineries

The Barrels & Bites pass offers Hill Country wine lovers upscale tasting experiences or curated food and wine pairings.

Hotel Vin in Grapevine has launched a new "Route 66 Pit Stop" package in celebration of the iconic roadway's 100th anniversary. The package includes an Americana snack basket, Texas wine flight, disposable camera for capturing the journey, and grab-and-go breakfast for the road. Guests can also visit “The Vin Pit Stop" Lounge at WineYard Grille + Bar, the hotel's al fresco dining concept, for light bites, road trip-inspired specialty cocktail flights and Texas wine. Nightly rates for the "Route 66 Pit Stop" package start at $419.

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