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    Popp Culture

    A milestone casualty in Afghanistan reaches all the way to Hawaii, putting D-Dayin perspective

    Steve Popp
    Jun 5, 2010 | 4:48 pm
    • A scene from the mini-series, "The Pacific". It's hard not to think about thoseimages while in Hawaii.
    • The late Marine Cpl. Jacob Leicht
    • Admiral Chester W. Nimitz pins a Navy Cross on Doris Miller at ceremony on boarda warship in Pearl Harbor, May 27, 1942.
    • Lanai Island, Hawaii is ultra picturesque — and it gives one a lot of time tothink. A lot.
    • Did you know dolphins sleep with one eye open? That's the kind of knowledge youcan gain in a week away.

    My wife and I took a much-needed weeklong vacation to Lanai, Hawaii, this past week. We left behind the grind of the workweek, mounting “to do” lists and, as it turns out, a malfunctioning refrigerator.

    To fully embrace our Pacific retreat, once we landed in Hawaii we pledged to ignore our e-mail accounts. I also quarantined myself from any hint of social media, any mention of “breaking news,” and any television show with a pundit.

    As a consequence of being sequestered on a remote Hawaiian island without a steady stream of substantive news, I was able to focus my attention on finding the answers to more pressing questions of my vacation:

    • Do dolphins sleep? Yes, and approximately eight hours a day. It’s called “logging,” and it is similar to napping. Yet, fascinatingly, when dolphins sleep only half of their brain is inactive and only one eye is closed.
    • Can one overdose on pineapple? Yes, especially on an island developed by the Dole family.
    • How many pages did James Michener dedicate to chronicling the formation of the Hawaiian archipelago in his 1959 book Hawaii? Surprisingly, Michener spent only 16 pages on rock formations and lava; this is compared with the 921 pages he spent detailing the rest of the history of the islands.
    • Should a guy ever pair a Speedo and a T-shirt, with nothing else, at the same time? Never, despite the Speedo renaissance as reported by CultureMap's Steven Thomson.

    Reality Check
    The one disadvantage I discovered in going somewhat “off the grid” is that getting up to speed on the events of the world after a week off can be jarring.

    As I sat in the Honolulu Airport, acclimatizing to humanity and to the news of the day, I found particularly depressing the Associated Press story that explained how a “grim milestone was reached when NATO reported that a service member was killed in a roadside bombing in southern Afghanistan."

    The AP later reported that the 1,000th American casualty of the war in Afghanistan was Marine Cpl. Jacob Leicht of Kerrville. According to his brother, this 24-year-old, born on the Fourth of July, told people he “always wanted to die for his country and be remembered."

    With Memorial Day last Monday, and with the 66th anniversary of the D-Day invasion this Sunday, there’s no better time than now for us all to take some time off and reflect on those, like Jacob Leicht, who have sacrificed for this country.

    Memorial Day Origins
    Congress mandated the last Monday in May as an official holiday in 1971, yet Memorial Day originated in the wake of the American Civil War. It was meant to commemorate fallen service members of that conflict.
    In 1868 the veteran group the Grand Army of the Republic described the purpose of the day as one for “strewing with flowers, or otherwise decorating the graves of comrades who died in defense of their country during the late rebellion, and whose bodies now lie in almost every city, village, and hamlet churchyard in the land."

    I wanted to relay that historical tidbit about Memorial Day to the driver of a pickup truck who idled in front of me at a stoplight near downtown Houston this weekend.

    On his bumper was a sticker with a Texas flag and the words “SECEDE” emblazoned over it.

    You see, when I see the word “secede,” I don’t think of state pride or principled stances about state sovereignty. Rather, I think of Bull Run, Shiloh, Antietam, Gettysburg, Spotsylvania and Cold Harbor; and I think of the thousands of Americans, from the North and South, who died there.

    Had the light not turned green, I would have also recommended to the driver of said secessionist pickup truck that he pick up Drew Gilpin Faust’s 2008 book This Republic of Suffering: Death and the American Civil War. In the book, Faust employs staggering statistics to quantify the extent of the war’s carnage, and she chronicles how Americans coped and dealt with death during the conflict.

    Faust estimates, as other historians have done as well, that the number of American casualties during Civil War was 620,000. This figure was “approximately equal to the total fatalities in the Revolution, the War of 1812, the Mexican War, the Spanish American War, World War I, World War II, and the Korean War combined."

    Faust explains that “the Civil War’s rate of death, its incidence in comparison with the size of the American population was six times that of World War II.” And Faust notes, “One in five white southern men of military age did not survive the Civil War." Shockingly, Faust calculates that approximately two percent of the American population died in the American Civil War.

    To put it in another way, Faust estimates this “would mean six million fatalities” today.

    I doubt Rick Perry will utter any secessionist talk in the general election campaign against Bill White. But if he does, I’m going to mail Governor Perry my personal copy of This Republic of Suffering to read.

    Doris Miller
    Despite my inattention to the news in Hawaii this past week, I found it next to impossible not to think about World War II while staring out onto the Pacific Ocean. Scenes from the haunting HBO series The Pacific were still seared in my imagination, and our close proximity to Pearl Harbor brought to mind that day that still lives in “infamy.”

    Yet just a stone’s throw from my house here in Houston is another memorial to a hero who fought and died in World War II. The Doris Miller Center, a library and former elementary school in HISD, sits amid a canyon of townhomes on Feagan Street in the Rice Military neighborhood.

    The center is named after Doris “Dorie” Miller, originally from Waco, who became the first African-American awarded the Navy Cross “for his extraordinary courage in battle.” During the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, Miller rescued fellow sailors and fired an anti-aircraft gun at attacking Japanese planes. What made Miller’s conduct even more extraordinary was “it was Miller's first experience firing such a weapon.” As an African-American sailor, Miller served “in the segregated steward's branch of the navy” and as a result was “not given the gunnery training received by white sailors.”

    Tragically, Miller was killed in action in 1943 when the aircraft carrier Liscome Bay he was serving on was torpedoed and sunk in the Pacific Ocean. In memoriam, the Navy “honored Doris Miller by naming a dining hall, a barracks, and a destroyer escort for him.” You may have seen Cuba Gooding Jr. playing Miller in Hollywood’s 2001 Pearl Harbor. While the movie overall was forgettable, the actions of those at Pearl Harbor, like Dorie Miller, are not.

    The Associated Press story documented how for one soldier, "Capt. Nick Ziemba of Wilbraham, Massachusetts, serving with the 1st Battalion, 17th Infantry Regiment in southern Afghanistan," the number "1,000 was an arbitrary number and would have no impact on troop morale or operations." "We're going to continue to work," Ziemba declared.

    And this time of year, the least we can all do is respect and remember their service and sacrifice.

    unspecified
    news/travel

    Get your kicks

    Texas is just the start of the ultimate Route 66 road trip

    Associated Press
    Apr 9, 2026 | 9:30 am
    Cadillac Ranch
    Cadillac Ranch/ Facebook
    Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is an essential stop on a Route 66 road trip.

    ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (AP) — There are faster ways to get from Chicago to Los Angeles, but none have the allure or cultural cachet of Route 66.

    To John Steinbeck, it was the Mother Road that led poor farmers from Dust Bowl desperation to sunny California. To Native Americans along the route, it was an economic boon that also left scars. To Black travelers, it offered sanctuary during segregation. And to music fans, it was the place to get their kicks.

    Route 66 marks its 100th anniversary this year. Despite losing its status decades ago as one of the nation’s main arteries, people from around the world still flock to it to take perhaps the quintessential American road trip and soak in its neon lights, kitschy motels and attractions, and culinary offerings.

    The dream
    Route 66, which runs for roughly 2,400 miles (3,860 kilometers) from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica, California, was stitched together a century ago from a collection of Native American trading routes and old dirt roads with the goal of linking the industrial Midwest to the Pacific coast.

    Oklahoma businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the Father of Route 66, saw it as more than just a way to cross the country efficiently. It was a chance to connect rural America and create new pockets of commerce.

    Avery knew the number 66 would be ripe for marketing and could be seared into drivers' minds, and he was right: Route 66 has been immortalized in movies, books, including Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath and Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, and songs such as Bobby Troup's “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66,” which served as an anthem for post-World War II optimism and mobility.

    If you’ve ever planned to motor west and take the highway that’s the best, the year of Route 66's 100th anniversary just might be the time.

    Many stretches of Route 66 may be littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but there's still much history and magic to be discovered. With each stop the wheels of imagination turn, leaving travelers to contemplate what life was like for the people and communities that made the road hum.

    Here are essential stops and sights to see on a road trip along historic Route 66.

    Route 66 Somewhere along Route 66. Photo by Morten Andreassen on Unsplash

    Illinois
    Chicago has long been one of the country’s economic engines, with access to international waters and railroads that linked all corners of the country.

    For some travelers, the journey is fueled more by the food than the scenery, and there’s plenty to choose from — slices of homemade pie, thick shakes, cheeseburgers and an assortment of fried delights.

    The Cozy Dog Drive In in Springfield, the Illinois capital, is one of the many diners that sprang up along Route 66, and its breaded hot dogs on a stick have stood the test of time. Third-generation owner Josh Waldmire says the recipe is a secret.

    Waldmire’s grandfather, Ed, saw the concoction’s potential as fast and convenient road food and developed a system for frying the dogs vertically.

    Missouri
    Route 66 has its share of twists and turns, and it’s no surprise that a highway famous for its quirky roadside attractions would cross the nation’s most famous river on one of the more peculiar bridges known to modern engineering.

    As the road nears St. Louis, the mile-long (1.6-kilometer-long) Chain of Rocks Bridge hovers more than 60 feet (18 meters) above the Mississippi River.

    Engineers eventually built a straighter, higher-speed option, and a poor resale market spared the original bridge from the scrap heap. Today it’s reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

    A median in Missouri is home to St. Robert Route 66 Neon Park, which features orphaned neon signs that once beckoned travelers to stop at certain sites and businesses along the highway. Often handcrafted, they weren’t only markers for motels, cafes and gas stations, but were also folk art and symbols of local culture.

    Kansas
    The Sunflower State hosts only a short stretch of Route 66, but it packs a punch with the Kan-O-Tex Service Station in Galena. A classic example of roadside fare, the station served as inspiration for the animated 2006 Pixar film Cars.

    Director John Lasseter and his crew took road trips along the route, digging into history and looking for elements that could bring the project to life. It was in Galena where they spotted the old boom truck that served as the basis for the character Tow Mater. The plot wasn’t far off, as so many once bustling towns — like the fictional Radiator Springs — nearly faded away after being bypassed by an interstate.

    Kansas also is home to the Brush Creek Bridge, otherwise known as the Rainbow Bridge. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of few remaining examples of the concrete arched bridges designed by James Barney Marsh.

    Route 66 Neon signs along Route 66. Photo by Mick Haupt on Unsplash

    Oklahoma
    There was a real danger for some who traveled the road, particularly Black motorists passing through inhospitable and segregated areas during the Jim Crow era. The Green Book — a guide first published in 1936 by Victor Hugo Green — listed hotels, restaurants and gas stations that would serve Black customers.

    The Threatt Filling Station near Luther wasn’t listed in The Green Book, but it was a safe haven — not only for getting fuel, but for barbecue and baseball. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was the only known Black-owned and operated gas station along Route 66.

    Route 66 is littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but one example of the highway’s resilient spirit stands tall in Sapulpa, near Tulsa. The restored Tee Pee Drive-In Theater offers a step back into the 1950s, when the booming car culture helped spawn thousands of drive-in theaters nationwide.

    Built in 1949, the drive-in officially opened in the spring of 1950 with a screening of John Wayne’s “Tycoon.” It was one of the few drive-ins at the time to have paved pathways. Over the years, it survived a tornado, a fire that destroyed the concession stand and break-ins before being shuttered for more than 20 years. It reopened in 2023.

    route 66 historic district Get your kicks on Route 66 in Amarillo. Photo courtesy of Visit Amarillo

    Texas
    Blink and you might miss it, but a stop at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is a must for any Route 66 journey. For decades, visitors have been spray-painting the 10 vintage Cadillacs at the site and mulling the transitory nature of time as Bruce Springsteen did in his 1980 song of the same name.

    It’s not a ranch, but rather a public art installation created in 1974 by the art and architecture collective Ant Farm. At first, the cars — which were half-buried front-down at a 60-degree angle — were used for target practice. Others would scratch their initials into the metal. The spray painting started later.

    Arrive in Adrian and you’re halfway through your trip. Steps from a white line marking the midpoint of Route 66 is the Midway Cafe, where the “ugly pies” are anything but.

    If you’re still hungry, head back to Amarillo for a 72-ounce (2 kilogram) steak and all the sides at The Big Texan. If you can finish the meal in an hour or less, it's free.

    New Mexico
    More than half of Route 66 cuts through sovereign Native American lands, often tracing routes used by tribes long before settlers arrived. Much like the railroad in the 1800s, the highway opened the door to a new era of commerce, but it also fueled stereotypes about cultures along the way.

    There are still faded and crumbling references to tipis and feathered headdresses at some stops along the historic highway. The symbols were easily appropriated for marketing by roadside vendors but weren't indicative of the separate and distinct Native American cultures in the area.

    Today, tribes are telling their own stories and showcasing their creations, whether it be pottery, fruit pies or poems.

    Albuquerque boasts the longest intact urban stretch of Route 66. Those 18 miles (29 kilometers) pass through several neighborhoods and business districts, from historic Old Town to Nob Hill.

    Some of the old motor lodges and neon signs along what is now Central Avenue have been restored. Other signs are being reimagined using hubcaps, elaborate lowrider-inspired paint jobs and New Mexico’s classic yellow and red license plates in a nod to the car culture that is very much still alive in the city.

    Arizona
    Musician Jackson Browne was taking his own road trip in the early 1970s when his car left him stranded in Winslow. The experience inspired the lyrics to the Eagles’ hit “Take it Easy.” But it’s certainly not the only song that is a must-have for a Route 66 playlist.

    Bobby Troup created a classic American road anthem in the 1940s with “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” Nat King Cole, Chuck Berry, The Rolling Stones and Depeche Mode carried it through the decades, each covering the song with their own flair.

    While standing on a corner in Winslow, don’t be surprised if someone saunters up with a guitar and starts strumming favorites from their own road trip playlist.

    Before leaving the state, the one-time gold mining town of Oatman features a Wild West atmosphere, daily staged shootouts and beloved burros. Oatman was a destination along one of the original alignments of Route 66 via a treacherous path through the Black Mountains, but it was later bypassed as part of improvements made in the 1950s.

    California
    Once a desert oasis, Roy’s Motel & Café in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark. The towering neon sign is one of the most photographed spots along the road. Inside, foreign currency left by international visitors lines one wall. Across the street, a clothing post decorated with shoes, shirts and other items juts up from the desert floor.

    This stretch of the highway through the Mojave Desert offers a special kind of solitude. The pavement gets rough in spots and the landscape takes charge, showing off Joshua trees, wide-open spaces and the remnants of ancient volcanic activity.

    Much of the area is undeveloped, meaning it looks a lot like it would have when Route 66 was commissioned in 1926.

    After making it through oft-congested Los Angeles, the iconic Santa Monica Pier marks the end of the line, and it’s nothing short of a perpetual party with a steady stream of spectators and performers. Although many stretches of Route 66 have lapsed into decay, the breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean are a reminder of the pursuits made possible by the road over the last century.

    american road tripneon signsroad triproute 66
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