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    Rethink Georgetown

    Consider this charming town with its beautiful town square for your next Lone Star jaunt

    Shelley Seale
    May 16, 2016 | 9:05 am

    Looking for a bit of nostalgia in your next close-to-home travel destination? Savvy Texas travelers know that nothing beats Georgetown, just north of Austin.

    In addition to the historic district containing 46 Victorian structures on the National Register of Historic Places, this tidy community boasts the most beautiful town square in Texas. Georgetown has lots of options for eating, drinking, shopping, and exploring.

    Green city
    Filled with green spaces, Georgetown is also the second city in the United States to be supplied by green power. Already about 75 percent of the way there, the city will be fully run on solar and wind energy by 2017. With nearly nine miles of hike-and-bike trails along the San Gabriel River, including a 1.6-mile granite trail that loops around San Gabriel Park, Georgetown keeps outdoors lovers happy.

    Didn't bring your bicycle? The city offers a bike-sharing program that allows you to check out a bike to explore the trails and town — and it's completely free.

    If your four-legged friend is with you, check out the dog-friendly, pecan tree-shaded Bark Park or the 300-acre Berry Springs Park and Preserve. During hot months, cool down at Blue Hole (a scenic lagoon on the South Fork San Gabriel River), the downtown splash pad and pool (kids love it and it’s free), or get out on Lake Georgetown with a kayak or paddle board.

    Family adventures
    Kids of all ages are intrigued by Inner Space Cavern, one of the best preserved caves in Texas and one of the few places where prehistoric remains are found. Hidden for 10,000 years, the cavern has been constantly changing, allowing for spectacular displays and breathtakingly beautiful formations.

    The Georgetown Challenge Course is also a fun way to spend time as a family. It’s a year-round team course consisting of low obstacles, 22 new and exciting high elements (including parallel zip lines), and two climbing walls.

    Cultural connections
    The vibrant cultural scene includes the historic Georgetown Palace Theatre, a renovated movie house now offering live theater productions year-round; the Williamson Museum with free hands-on exhibits and tours; and the Georgetown Art Center, a transformed fire station that's home to innovative art exhibits and programs such as group painting nights, various public classes, and open studio sessions.

    You can also immerse yourself in art just by strolling around and appreciating the various public sculptures and artwork around town. This self-guided tour includes pieces along Main Street, San Gabriel Park, and the Georgetown Public Library.

    Events
    In addition to having the most charming town square, Georgetown is also known as the “red poppy capital of Texas.” The city is one of the few places in the United States where red poppies grow naturally every spring, celebrated annually at the free Red Poppy Festival.

    On the first Friday of every month, merchants in the town square stay open late for evening shopping and gallery hopping, with live music and other special events. In the summer, enjoy live music at the courthouse for the Music on the Square Summer Concert Series. All concerts are free and take place from 6:30 to 8:30 pm on Fridays in June, July, and August. Bring your chairs or blanket, and perhaps pick up dinner at a local restaurant to take with you.

    Georgetown's historic downtown is filled with boutique shops, restaurants, wine tasting rooms, and more.

    City of Georgetown, Texas
    City of Georgetown, Texas/Facebook
    Georgetown's historic downtown is filled with boutique shops, restaurants, wine tasting rooms, and more.
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    36 Hours in Granbury

    Enjoy a delightful weekend escape near Fort Worth in the tiny town of Granbury

    June Naylor
    Jun 17, 2016 | 10:30 am
    Enjoy a delightful weekend escape near Fort Worth in the tiny town of Granbury
    Photo by June Naylor
    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.

    We need quick getaways to recharge our batteries, and one of the easiest go-tos is Granbury. Less than an hour's drive southwest of Fort Worth (and around a four-hour drive from Houston), the Hood County seat offers a great dose of food and drink, fun places to poke around on the square, a lovely night's sleep, and sublime hints of Hill Country scenery.

    And if you haven't been lately, it's time to revisit. All you really need is just 36 hours to get the most out of your escape.

    Eating
    To fortify yourself for the traipsing around, make a lunch stop at Ketzler's, a terrific little German bistro anchoring one corner of the courthouse square. Dive into plates of freshly made bratwurst and knackwurst; excellent potato pancakes; a fabulous schnitzel with sides of warm red cabbage (hinting of red wine, cinnamon, and nutmeg); and kraut (with bacon, carraway, and apple), and marvel at how authentic the place is. Painted wood reliefs depicting Bavarian villages hang on the stone walls and German music plays on the sound system.

    While there, we eavesdropped on a young woman interviewing for a job — partially in German. She couldn't get over how much like her mom's homeland the restaurant feels.

    There's a lovely beer garden out back to enjoy any of several German brews, as well as local beer. A full bar is soon to be installed, as well.

    The dinner that must not be missed is a few doors down and upstairs at Eighteen Ninety Grille, Granbury's premier upscale dining spot. More elegant than we dared hope, this delightful surprise is a pleasure from start to finish. The food is fabulous because the restaurant owners snagged chef Michael Watkins from the popular Winslow's Wine Cafe in Fort Worth.

    We're already addicted to two of his appetizers: the Texas Trilogy, which wraps local chicken and quail inside smoked bacon and a little jalapeño, all skewered and grilled, and the seared ahi, sesame crusted and served in ruby slices over arugula, avocado, and radish in a ginger-soy dressing. New York strip, expertly cooked and given a wild mushroom treatment, is divine, as is the bodacious pork chop, served with a smoked pear chutney.

    The wine list is filled with good things, including a beautiful Fess Parker Pinot Noir. We like just hanging out here; the staff is welcoming, and there's warmth and comfort in the original rock walls. Watch for the restaurant's bar and lounge to open downstairs sometime in April.

    We can't ever head home from Granbury without a burger stop at Grump's, a decidedly casual spot out on Highway 377 with good grub and cold beer. Best bets are the bacon cheeseburger (pepper Jack, please) with grilled onion and green chilies, plus a side of fried pickles. It helps soak up all the brews we enjoy at the Saturday afternoon gathering at what's rapidly becoming the most notable brewery in Texas.

    Drinking
    At Revolver Brewing, several hundred people show up for the noon-3 party each Saturday afternoon. And what a show: You're clearly a regular if you bring your own camp chairs, or you arrive at 11:50 am if you want to snag one of the picnic tables scattered on the grounds. A local band plays on a stage, and everyone spreads out to enjoy the fresh air — and that beer.

    For the $10 admission (for everyone over 18, kids are free), you get the entertainment and a "tour," which is actually a 15-minute chat in the tank room with one of the very knowledgeable and entertaining brewers. He tells you how Revolver scored a major coup by recruiting brewmaster Grant Wood from Samuel Adams in Boston, and that tells you the source of the smarts for making sensational brews like the smash-hit Blood & Honey, Sidewinder, Ironhead IPA, and many more.

    Arrive before 2 pm, and your 10 bucks buys you four generous pours. After 2 pm, it's two generous pours. Either way, you get a nice Revolver pint glass to keep. There's always a food vendor onsite, selling meals to enjoy outside.

    Wine lovers, head out to Barking Rocks Winery, scarcely 10 minutes from downtown, where you could be greeted at the car by Cellar, the sweet winery dog, who just wants a little love. Inside, local legend/character Tiberia, the winemaker with just one name, and his staff pour wines at tastings on Saturday afternoon and on the first Friday evening of each month.

    Tiberia speaks our grape language, as we're not fond of sweet wines: His Roussane Reserve is a lovely oaky white, his rosé is slightly effervescent and perfect in sangria, and his Syrah is something we enjoy alone or with steaks. The grounds at Barking Rocks are lush and inviting, perfect for spreading out to listen to the live music on Friday evenings.

    As long as you're wandering, head just 20 minutes down the road to the new location of Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese Co. Self-described "recovering lawyer" Dave Eagle began making extraordinary cheese in Granbury in 2010, immediately won some international awards, and the growing business demanded he expand his space.

    Now in a 1910 storefront in Lipan, his cheeses are hugely popular sellers at Central Market and at Scardello Artisan Cheese in Dallas, as well as restaurants like Ellerbe Fine Foods and Cafe Modern. While visiting, we can see the cheesemaking process, taste his Gouda-style cheeses, and — coming soon — enjoy all-organic ice cream he's making with the same local milk he uses for his cheeses.

    Walking the square
    The courthouse square in Granbury is one of the first in Texas, having undergone serious restoration and invigoration in the late 1970s and early 1980s. The limestone buildings remind of us those in Fredericksburg and other Hill Country towns, and each one framing the square and the very recently renovated courthouse holds a stash of retail and other diversions.

    We are most taken with some newer finds, including St. Helen's, a shop with cool things for the home, including candles and clocks and dinner table goods; Home Sweet Home, where we found cool flasks and great bedding; and Eighteen Ninety Marketplace, downstairs from the same-named restaurant, a shop reminding me of those in Napa, selling truly fabulous olive oils, vinegars, and spices.

    One of the biggest additions of sorts to the square is the Granbury Opera House, a fixture since the 1880s. Fallen on hard times, it was recently and magnificently restored, and a new board of directors has made the place wonderfully viable and relevant. Even if you don't see a show there — lots of Broadway-type shows, as well as tributes to Elvis, Rat Pack, and more — it's worth a stop just to admire the place.

    Slumber in style
    Granbury has a fine supply of B&Bs for nice overnights. We're utterly hooked on the Inn on Lake Granbury; there's just not a more luxurious, sumptuous option around.

    Inn owners Jim and Cathy see to every imaginable comfort, offer wine and substantial snacks in the afternoon, and serve a breakfast we dream about long after we're home. Our favorite digs are the lakeside suites, which give a good view of the water and the grounds. We've whiled away many happy hours in Adirondack chairs and on the wooden swing overlooking the lake, and beside the rock-lined saltwater swimming pool.

    Like us, you'll wish your getaway lasted several more days at this place.

    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.

    Inn at Lake Granbury
    Photo by June Naylor
    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.
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