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    West Texas Wonder

    Capital of Quirkiness: Marfa's independent spirit draws fashion and art lovers

    Kendall Morgan
    Feb 1, 2014 | 8:07 am

    Remote yet refined, the tiny West Texas town of Marfa (pop. 1,899) has become a surprising center of art and culture — and the fashionista's current location du jour.

    It’s all Donald Judd’s fault. Without his colonization of Presidio County in the mid-1970s, Marfa might just be known in cinematic footnotes as the location of the 1956 Elizabeth Taylor/Rock Hudson/James Dean film Giant.

    But it was Judd’s move to Marfa in 1973 and subsequent establishment of the Chinati Foundation on the 340-acre grounds of the former U.S. Army Fort D.A. Russell that put this tiny Texan town on the map. Today, Chinati is just a small part of Marfa’s artistic focus.

    “You really have to work to get there, but I love shooting there,” says Dallas photographer Thom Jackson. “The isolation is wonderful, and it gives you room to create.”

    The Judd Foundation also maintains tours of its Architecture Studio, Art Studio, and Cobb and Whyte Houses, and galleries — from the cutting-edge nonprofit Ballroom Marfa to the emerging artist-focused Galleri Urbane — show a wide range of work, including painting, photography, film and sculpture.

    Where the artists go, the adventurers follow, and last year’s 60 Minutes expose of Marfa as “The Capital of Quirkiness” only confirmed the town’s reputation. You might as well not be on Instagram unless you’ve got a shot leaping in front of the Prada Marfa installation in nearby Valentine, Texas. The place has most definitely reached critical hipster mass.

    They may descend during October’s Chinati weekend, or for the annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music & Love at El Cosmico, but on an average weekend you could still spot the likes of Natalie Portman dining in the environs of the foodie haven that is Cochineal.

    These days, you’re also likely to see crews from Nordstrom, GQ or British Vogue shooting on the dusty streets. Local location manager and producer Ginger Griffice (who mans the Marfa Soap Company on the side) helped put these — and other — projects together. She says that the town’s perfect storm of light and location make it a photographer’s dream.

    “In 2006, There Will Be Blood and No Country for Old Men were both shot here, and a lot of creative directors got interested [in Marfa],” she says. “The light and the landscape can’t be understated; at different times of the year, the light is different, the grass changes.

    “Also, everyone has a great time here. There’s an independent spirit the West is known for that you can pretend you’re part of for a second.”

    Pioneering spirit

    For the images (originally for Models.com) shot on a ranch outside the city limits, Swedish model Julia Hafstrom, Dallas-based photographer Thom Jackson and New York casting agent Andrew Weir channeled that same pioneering spirit, resulting in the rustic yet enchanting shots you see in the slideshow above.

    Jackson, who has shot in Marfa for multiple clients, says the town and its environs are “getting a lot of play because of the remoteness. You really have to work to get there, but I love shooting there.

    “It’s wide-open spaces, and the arts community exists alongside ranchers and cattle people. The isolation is wonderful, and it gives you room to create.”

    Hafstrom (who has previously worked with brands such as Dior, Tommy Hilfiger and Prada and photographers like Steven Meisel, Craig McDean and Mario Testino) found her West Texas sojourn an inspiring experience, especially the chance to climb on rocks and up cattle chutes in ultra-high St. Laurent heels.

    “I’ve always loved location shooting, because you can get a feel of the pictures,” she explains. “It’s more emotional, and you challenge yourself. And Marfa is very cool. The town is so special and trendy; it’s a different place in the middle of nowhere.”

    Here’s more of what makes Marfa a must-see destination:

    TO SEE

    Ballroom Marfa, 108 E. San Antonio St.
    Visual art, film and music collide at this avant-garde space right in the center of town.

    Chinati Foundation, One Cavalry Row
    The epic contemporary art museum featuring permanent installations by Donald Judd, John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin, among others, can be viewed through self and guided private and group tours.

    Eugene Binder Gallery, 218 Highland St.
    A can’t-miss modernist gallery with painting, installation and performance on view.

    The Ice Plant, 100 N. Nevill St.
    The Chinati Foundation is unveiling the newest work of internationally acclaimed New York artist Zoe Leonard, on view through December 2014.

    Judd Foundation, 104 Highland Ave.
    For a deeper look at Judd’s private living and working spaces, visitors can tour Judd’s multiple properties around downtown Marfa.

    Prada Marfa
    A permanent sculpture by artists Elmgreen and Gragset (at least until the Texas Department of Transportation has its way), Prada Marfa is a must-see photo op for all visitors. To save the installation until you get there, visit Save Prada Marfa.

    TO STAY

    El Cosmico, 802 S. Highland Ave.
    Not quite glamping, hotelier Liz Lambert’s mix of teepees, tents and trailers is nonetheless a bohemian rhapsody for adventurous travelers.

    Hotel Paisano, 207 Highland St.
    The headquarters for the cast and crew of Giant, the hotel still features Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor suites, plus an onsite gallery, gift shop and restaurant.

    Marfa House on the Hill, 201 S. Aparejo St.
    This stylish turn-of-the-century adobe home was refurbed by Dallas landscape designer Robert Bellamy. It is available to rent to Marfa visitors.

    Thunderbird Marfa, 601 W. San Antonio St.
    A classic ’50s motel, updated for the modern age with industrial interiors that mix wood and concrete to aesthetic perfection.

    TO EAT

    Cochineal, 107 W. San Antonio St.
    Fresh ingredients are hard to come by in Marfa, but you wouldn’t know it dining at Cochineal. Opened by two ex-pat New York restaurateurs, everything on the menu is effortlessly delicious — especially the legendary date pudding.

    Fat Lyle’s, 719 S. Highland Ave.
    Daily specials and sandwiches abound, but Tuesday-night tacos are what the locals love.

    Future Shark, 120 N. Highland Ave.
    Marfa’s beloved Food Shark trailer’s brick-and-mortar offshoot serves up healthy cuisine for breakfast and lunch in a modern cafeteria environment.

    Maiya’s Restaurant, 103 Highland St.
    A Marfa institution since 2002, Maiya’s offers tasty (if slightly overpriced) Italian.

    Pizza Foundation, 102 U.S. 90
    Even East Coast pizza snobs admit the Pizza Foundation knows its dough. Go early, as these thin-crust pies have a tendency to sell out.

    TO DRINK

    Lost Horse Saloon, 306 E. San Antonio St.
    Marfa’s dive bar deluxe run by an eye-patch-wearing cowboy, the Lost Horse offers cold beer and live tunes.

    Padres, 209 W. El Paso St.
    National touring bands, pool tables, decent burgers, funky décor and a cool patio make this Austin-esque spot a nightlife must.

    TO SHOP

    Cast + Crew, 203 E. San Antonio St.
    This Etsy shop has expanded to a physical location, offering revamped 20 century modern furniture.

    Cobra Rock Boot Company, 107 S. Dean St.
    Its first style — the perfectly designed unisex South Highland Boots — is a fashion blogger must-have. Now the dynamic shoemaking duo has introduced a second style worth adding yourself to wait list.

    Freda, 207 S. Highland Ave.
    A Lilliputian lifestyle store, Freda has a little bit of everything — from Pamela Love jewelry to vintage LPs.

    Garza Furniture, 103 Nevill St.
    Garza’s designers created the furniture for Austin’s beloved Hotel San Jose, and the saddle leather designs only get better with age. Call ahead: The showroom is only open by appointment.

    Marfa Book Co., 105 S. Highland Ave.
    A expansive selection of Texan authors, plus poetry readings and a backroom gallery, make this downtown bookshop a cultural destination.

    Tienda M, 108 S. Highland Ave.
    Tienda M offers the simply styled, luxe Dosa clothing line along with accessories and gifts.

    Wrong, 110 W. Dallas St.
    Housed in a former church, Camp Bosworth and Buck Johnson’s shop and gallery features quirky gifts and ongoing guest art exhibits along with Bosworth’s jaw-dropping hand-carved works in wood.

    These images were shot for Models.com on a ranch just outside the Marfa city limits.

    Models.com photo shoot in Marfa, Texas
    Photo by Thom Jackson
    These images were shot for Models.com on a ranch just outside the Marfa city limits.
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    Now hear this

    New Texas museum shines spotlight on Tejano music history

    Edmond Ortiz
    Dec 18, 2025 | 11:30 am
    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, tejano music
    Photo by Edmond Ortiz
    Roger Hernandez serves as board president of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum.

    For a city that proudly calls itself the capital of Tejano music, San Antonio has long been missing a permanent place to honor the genre’s pioneers and preserve its history. That gap officially closed In December with the opening of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum at 1414 Fredericksburg Rd.

    The music couldn’t have found a better steward than its founder and board president. Roger Hernandez has had his finger on the pulse of Tejano music for decades. His company, En Caliente Productions, has provided a platform for countless performing artists and songwriters in Tejano, conjunto, and regional Mexican music since 1982.

    Hernandez says his wife, who ran a shop at Market Square years ago, would often get questions from visitors about the location of a physical Tejano music museum, a thing that simply did not exist. In 2022, he banded together with friends, family, and other local Tejano music supporters to make the nonprofit Hall of Fame a reality.

    “I decided I've been in the music scene for over 40 years, it's time to do a museum,” Hernandez recalls.

    Hernandez says a brick-and-mortar Tejano music museum has long been needed to remember musical acts and other individuals who grew the genre across Texas and northern Mexico, especially those who are aging. Recently, the community lost famed Tejano music producer Manny Guerra and Abraham Quintanilla, the renowned Tejano singer/songwriter and father of the late superstar Selena Quintanilla-Perez. Both deaths occurred roughly one week after the Totally Tejano museum opened to the public.

    “They're all dying. They're all getting older, and we need to acknowledge all these people,” Hernandez says.

    The Totally Tejano Museum — named after Hernandez’s Totally Tejano Television Roku streaming — has 5,000 square feet of space packed with plaques, photos, promotional posters, musical instruments, and other memorabilia honoring the pioneers and stars of the beloved genre. Mannequins wear stage outfits from icons like Laura Canales and Flaco Jimenez, and a wall of photos remembers late greats. Totally Tejano Television plays legendary performances on a loop, bringing the exhibits to life.

    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, Tejano music The newly opened Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum includes a growing collection of memorabilia. Photo by Edmond Ortiz

    Hernandez says the museum will soon welcome permanent and rotating exhibits, including traveling shows, a Hall of Fame section, and an area paying homage to Chicano music crossovers, such as the late Johnny Rodriguez, the South Texas singer-songwriter who blended country with Tex-Mex music. Plans call for the organization to hold its inaugural Hall of Fame induction in February 2026.

    Eventually, a 2,000 square feet back room will be converted into additional display space and host industry gatherings, community symposiums, and record and video release parties. The museum also plans to add a gift and record shop and a music learning room where visitors can listen to early Tejano music and browse archival photos. Hernandez is already talking with local school districts about educational field trips.

    Much like Tejano itself, the museum is a grassroots production. Hernandez and fellow board members have used their own money to rent, renovate, develop, and maintain the museum space. The board also leads the selection of the Hall of Fame honorees and curates the exhibits.

    Hernandez has been heartened by the museum’s reception, both from media outlets and music fans around Texas and beyond.

    “We had a radio station come in this morning from Houston to interview us,” he says. “People have come in from Lubbock, Texas. We have had people from Midland, Texas. We have another person who emailed us who’s coming in from New York. People are learning all about us.”

    That includes many of the musicians who helped shape the genre. Johnny Hernandez, Sunny Ozuna, Elida Reyna, and Danny Martinez from Danny and The Tejanos are among the luminaries who have already graced the halls.

    The Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum is now open 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Sunday, and closed Monday. Admission is free, but donations are encouraged. Fans can call 210-314-1310 for more information.


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