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    Travelin' Man

    Where time stands still: Seminole Canyon preserves sense of wonder in lonelycorner of Texas

    Stephan Lorenz
    Feb 18, 2012 | 3:09 pm
    • This bronze statue stands guard at the rim of Seminole Canyon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Fossils are common along the trail leading toward the shelter.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The three human figures in this photo are one of the more famous paintings inFate Bell Shelter and are well preserved.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The guided group hikes into the canyon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Here are more recent markings left by early settlers.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Overhanging rocks provided protection for early inhabitants.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Animal and abstract shapes abound in the shelter.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • We're looking out from Fate Bell Shelter in Seminole Canyon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The canyon floor is scoured clean by flash floods.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The view from the Fate Bell Shelter.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Past Del Rio, the country turned from dry brush to desert. U.S. Route 90 swung west, leaving the city, past Amistad Reservoir — its water low, but still oddly tinged blue among the dull cliffs and arid hills.

    It had been a solid six-hour drive from Houston to Del Rio, and we'd welcomed the chance for a break to fill up and grab a snack. West of here, the Chihuahuan Desert sprawled for hundreds of miles — a land of undulating rock, sand and canyons, nearly swallowing the few scattered towns.

    Fortunately, we had just under an hour to go before turning south onto the short paved road leading into Seminole Canyon State Park. A brown sign, easily missed, pointed to the left, not offering a hint at the uniqueness of the site.

    Before heading back, the ranger asked us to be quiet, sit and linger. I took in the view, listening to the faint wind stirring dry branches in the handful of trees growing among scattered boulders.

    We stepped out, stretched our legs and looked across the seemingly smooth and unbroken ocotillo flats. A few paces from the parking lot revealed the first views of Seminole Canyon — a deep gash in limestone running in twists and turns all the way to the Rio Grande, six miles distant.

    The ghosts of Texas past

    Seminole Canyon State Park, 2,200 sparsely vegetated acres, sits in a lonely corner of Val Verde County near the Rio Grande and Mexican border. These lands have been inhabited for at least 12,000 years, and bones of large bison and mammoth are evidence of a successful hunting culture in a lusher landscape.

    After climate changes and drier conditions prevailed, other cultures settled in the area about 7,000 years ago. These people left unique rock paintings in canyons along the Rio Grande, Pecos and Devils Rivers.

    We arrived just in time to join one of the daily tours offered at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. during the winter season. Visitors cannot access the shelter and rock art outside ranger-led hikes in order to protect the fragile paintings.

    An overlook near the visitor center offered explanations about the region, and a large bronze statue — its design based on the rock paintings — overlooked the canyon.

    What goes down must go up

    During the hike down, we learned about edible plants found in the desert. The ranger also pointed out materials used by early inhabitants for basket weaving and making sandals.

    The bottom of the canyon was scoured clean by flash floods. Limestone, almost silver in the strong sun, stood out among sand and pebbles. Vertical cliffs rose on one side, while boulder-strewn slopes climbed from the canyon floor on the other.

    Ten minutes later, we climbed the short trail to Fate Bell Shelter, where we saw the first paintings, along with more recent markings left by early settlers. Above us, time immortal was visible in colored layers of rock.

    Many of the pictographs are about 4,000 years old. These archaic people lived in a land and environment that resembled conditions today. Small groups would seek shelter under natural rock overhangs and hunt small game in the surrounding desert and grasslands.

    Fading away into mystery

    We continued to a larger shelter. On the floor, archeologists had discovered many layers of grass left by generations of people seeking refuge beneath the large overhang. Some tufts of straw remain visible to this day.

    The walls here have numerous pictographs depicting human and animal shapes, in addition to abstract forms. Over the decades, much of the color — which often is a combination of minerals and animals fats — has faded.

    Fortunately, early explorers transcribed what they saw on the walls with watercolors. But even with these records, the specific meanings of the paintings remains a mystery.

    Stop and stay for awhile

    Before heading back, the ranger asked us to be quiet, sit and linger. I took in the view, listening to the faint wind stirring dry branches in the handful of trees growing among scattered boulders.

    At my feet, polished fossilized shells from an ancient sea stuck out from the rock. In the distance, I could see the drop where ice age hunters chased mammoths over the edge. I was within touching distance of a 1,000-year-old painting of a human figure slowly fading.

    Seminole Canyon, this lonely corner of Texas, offered a fresh perspective of time and a sense of wonder.

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    Texas getaways

    New restaurants and bars give Texas coastal town a grown-up glow-up

    Celestina Blok
    Jun 22, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Texas Clear Water Oyster Gardens
    Texas Clear Water Oyster Gardens/Facebook
    Sip-and-shuck oyster farm tours are new in Port Aransas

    Port Aransas, the beloved Texas coastal destination about three-and-a-half hours from Houston, has long been a favorite family beach getaway, where visitors can slip into "island time" with 18 miles of shoreline waves, sandcastle-worthy beaches, and plenty to keep kids entertained.

    But lately, the island has been giving grownups more reasons to get excited about the trip — or make one entirely on their own. A wave of new openings over the past few months has brought fresh bars, restaurants, boutiques, and other attractions that make Port A an even better getaway for couples, friends, and adults looking for more than a day at the beach.

    Here are eight new things to see and do in Port A this summer — or any time of year.

    Bars & Restaurants

    The Boat Bar
    Opened in March, this floating bar – originally a charter fishing boat known as The Island Queen – is anchored at the Port Aransas marina, providing a taste of the island life with its gentle motion on the water and some of the best views of the bay. The double-decker vessel offers beer, wine, frozen cocktails, and a food menu from neighboring businesses that can be delivered. (Don’t miss the black drum nachos from Jeremiah’s Dock Grill.) With seating for around 60, there’s plenty of room to stretch your sea legs. The Boat Bar is pet-friendly and family-friendly, with children welcome before dark. Open 12-10 pm daily. 154 W. Cotter Ave.

    Sip Yard
    This three-story open-air bar debuted in 2024, providing a first-of-its-kind new option for island imbibing. The ground level is family-friendly with yard games, a full bar, a stage for live music, large screens for game-watching, and multiple food vendors offering items like build-your-own pizza, tacos, Asian bowls, and Cajun cuisine. The second floor is 21-and-up and offers a livelier scene within earshot of any live music and activity below. The uncovered top floor provides picnic table seating and a breezy, bird’s eye view of the Gulf. Note that there is an occasional cover charge depending on live music acts. Open 11 am-10 pm Sunday-Thursday and 11 am-midnight Friday-Saturday. 123 W. Cotter Ave.

    Stout’s at the Shore
    Opened last summer by South Texas native and restaurateur Jason Stout, this elevated take on coastal cuisine is located in the heart of one of Port Aransas’ most popular vacation rental communities, Cinnamon Shore. This is Stout’s first culinary venture on the Gulf Coast, but his restaurant resume includes San Antonio-based Stout’s Pizza Company and Stout’s Signature, a fine dining restaurant that also has a location in Fredericksburg. Stout’s at the Shore is a dinner-only destination with unique cocktails like lavender smoked old fashioneds and a menu that ranges from steamed mussels and Rockefeller oysters to blackened snapper, beef tenderloin bolognese, and filet with compound herb butter and chimichurri. While the restaurant is geared toward adult dining, there is a kids menu, along with options for outdoor seating. 201 Social Cir.

    Tiki Jay’s
    Jason Stout also just opened Tiki Jay’s, a tiki bar with rum cocktails served in playful barware and mugs; and food offerings such as poke bowls, fish tacos, pulled pork sliders, and pineapple upside down cake. Opened in late May, the casual bar and restaurant is located just steps from Stout’s at the Shore. Open 4-10 pm daily. 125 Market St.

    Shopping

    The Boutiques at Cinnamon Shore
    Opened in 2025, The Boutiques at Cinnamon Shore encompass three distinct shops (Paloma, Low Tides, and The CS Collection) featuring clothing and resort wear for men, women, and children. Customers will find logo items, gifts, and high-quality T-shirts along with trendy boutique apparel and accessories including hats, sunglasses, and jewelry. There are great sale racks, too. 125 Market St.

    Saltwater Gypsies
    This fine food and gift market reopened in downtown Port Aransas in 2023 after a long hiatus due to Hurricane Harvey, which caused major destruction on the island in 2017. But there’s now a brand-new satellite location of Saltwater Gypsies, opened in April at Cinnamon Shore. The gourmet market sells everything from pantry staples and fresh eggs to tableware, sunscreen, pet treats, and cookbooks. Customers can stop by either location to stock their coolers while grabbing souvenirs and unique gifts in a pinch. 403 N. Alister St., 5009 Hwy 361.

    Texas Clear Water Oyster Gardens

    Texas Clear Water Oyster Gardens/Facebook

    Sip-and-shuck oyster farm tours are new in Port Aransas

    Attractions

    Salt Island Trail at the Nature Preserve at Charlie’s Pasture
    One of Port Aransas’ most noteworthy attractions is the 1,217 acres of upland, tidal flat, marsh, and estuarine habitats that encompass the Nature Preserve at Charlie’s Pasture. It’s here that migrating and resident birds find peace amid a rare chunk of undeveloped coastal plain. There are trails where visitors can observe the habitats, but Hurricane Harvey destroyed them all in 2017. The Salt Island Trail, a $2.3 million project that was completed in early in 2025, was the last of the trails to be reconstructed. The trail is 2.2 miles round trip and features boardwalks through tidal saltmarsh that lead to the two-story Salt Island Tower. Also visit the Pavilion at the Nature Preserve for complimentary yoga every Tuesday at 12:30 pm. Registration is required. North access is at Port St. and south entrance is 2650 St. Hwy 361.

    Texas Clear Water Oyster Gardens
    This premium oyster farm is the first to operate out of Port Aransas, established by Bill and Amelia Strieber who met on the beach there in high school. Located on a two-acre site in the southern part of Aransas Bay, Clear Water Oyster Gardens offers unshucked oysters for purchase along with brand new sip-and-shuck oyster farm tours. Taking place on select Sundays, the tours ($94) include a two-hour boat ride with a welcome glass of bubbly, a bit of education by Bill Strieber, and freshly shucked oysters served onboard with curated wine pairings and sunset views. The tours are the first of their kind in Texas. 440 W. Cotter Ave., Slip B.

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