Travelin' Man

Where time stands still: Seminole Canyon preserves sense of wonder in lonelycorner of Texas

This bronze statue stands guard at the rim of Seminole Canyon.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Fossils are common along the trail leading toward the shelter.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The three human figures in this photo are one of the more famous paintings inFate Bell Shelter and are well preserved.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The guided group hikes into the canyon.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Here are more recent markings left by early settlers.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Overhanging rocks provided protection for early inhabitants.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Animal and abstract shapes abound in the shelter.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
We're looking out from Fate Bell Shelter in Seminole Canyon.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The canyon floor is scoured clean by flash floods.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The view from the Fate Bell Shelter.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz

Past Del Rio, the country turned from dry brush to desert. U.S. Route 90 swung west, leaving the city, past Amistad Reservoir — its water low, but still oddly tinged blue among the dull cliffs and arid hills.

It had been a solid six-hour drive from Houston to Del Rio, and we'd welcomed the chance for a break to fill up and grab a snack. West of here, the Chihuahuan Desert sprawled for hundreds of miles — a land of undulating rock, sand and canyons, nearly swallowing the few scattered towns.

Fortunately, we had just under an hour to go before turning south onto the short paved road leading into Seminole Canyon State Park. A brown sign, easily missed, pointed to the left, not offering a hint at the uniqueness of the site.

Before heading back, the ranger asked us to be quiet, sit and linger. I took in the view, listening to the faint wind stirring dry branches in the handful of trees growing among scattered boulders.

We stepped out, stretched our legs and looked across the seemingly smooth and unbroken ocotillo flats. A few paces from the parking lot revealed the first views of Seminole Canyon — a deep gash in limestone running in twists and turns all the way to the Rio Grande, six miles distant.

The ghosts of Texas past

Seminole Canyon State Park, 2,200 sparsely vegetated acres, sits in a lonely corner of Val Verde County near the Rio Grande and Mexican border. These lands have been inhabited for at least 12,000 years, and bones of large bison and mammoth are evidence of a successful hunting culture in a lusher landscape.

After climate changes and drier conditions prevailed, other cultures settled in the area about 7,000 years ago. These people left unique rock paintings in canyons along the Rio Grande, Pecos and Devils Rivers.

We arrived just in time to join one of the daily tours offered at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. during the winter season. Visitors cannot access the shelter and rock art outside ranger-led hikes in order to protect the fragile paintings.

An overlook near the visitor center offered explanations about the region, and a large bronze statue — its design based on the rock paintings — overlooked the canyon.

What goes down must go up

During the hike down, we learned about edible plants found in the desert. The ranger also pointed out materials used by early inhabitants for basket weaving and making sandals.

The bottom of the canyon was scoured clean by flash floods. Limestone, almost silver in the strong sun, stood out among sand and pebbles. Vertical cliffs rose on one side, while boulder-strewn slopes climbed from the canyon floor on the other.

Ten minutes later, we climbed the short trail to Fate Bell Shelter, where we saw the first paintings, along with more recent markings left by early settlers. Above us, time immortal was visible in colored layers of rock.

Many of the pictographs are about 4,000 years old. These archaic people lived in a land and environment that resembled conditions today. Small groups would seek shelter under natural rock overhangs and hunt small game in the surrounding desert and grasslands.

Fading away into mystery

We continued to a larger shelter. On the floor, archeologists had discovered many layers of grass left by generations of people seeking refuge beneath the large overhang. Some tufts of straw remain visible to this day.

The walls here have numerous pictographs depicting human and animal shapes, in addition to abstract forms. Over the decades, much of the color — which often is a combination of minerals and animals fats — has faded.

Fortunately, early explorers transcribed what they saw on the walls with watercolors. But even with these records, the specific meanings of the paintings remains a mystery.

Stop and stay for awhile

Before heading back, the ranger asked us to be quiet, sit and linger. I took in the view, listening to the faint wind stirring dry branches in the handful of trees growing among scattered boulders.

At my feet, polished fossilized shells from an ancient sea stuck out from the rock. In the distance, I could see the drop where ice age hunters chased mammoths over the edge. I was within touching distance of a 1,000-year-old painting of a human figure slowly fading.

Seminole Canyon, this lonely corner of Texas, offered a fresh perspective of time and a sense of wonder.

unspecified

Where to travel right now

Hill Country's historic spa reopens + 10 more Texas travel ideas for June

Photo by David Brendan Hall

undefined

Texas, it's time to make those summer vacation plans. June is shaping up to be a big month full of travel ideas, from fun wine tastings in Austin to a lively mural festival on the coast. There's also plenty to explore at home in Houston, such as a Japanese culture festival. Here are our top picks for summer travel events, hotel deals, and more in June.

Austin

The Loren Hotel is introducing two new wine programs this summer, open to all visitors. The "Boxed or Bougie" wine tastings will be offered on the first Saturday of each month, starting June 7, where guests can taste different wines to discover if fine wine is worth the price tag. On the second and third Saturdays of each month, the hotel will host "Varietal Wine Tastings" with different themes to spotlight wine regions, flavor profiles, and winemaking styles. Since June 14 is National Rosé Day, the first varietal tasting will focus on rosés. Both programs are free to the public and events will be held from 3-5 pm in the hotel lobby.

Nearly 30 participating Texas Hill Country Wineries will hit the highway for an Austin Road Show at the Austin Central Library. Attendees will get to meet the owners, winemakers, and managers behind some of the Hill Country's most successful vineyards while tasting new wines and dining on charcuterie. Guests will also receive a take-home event wine glass. The Austin Road Show event will be held from 5:30-8 pm on Friday, June 27. Tickets are $60 per person.

Central Texas

Floating down the Comal, San Marcos, or Pedernales Rivers while enjoying the scenery and the cool water is a perfect way to spend a hot afternoon this summer. People travel to the Central Texas area every year to tube, and locals love it, as well. However, it's not without dangers, rules, and guidelines that should be observed. Before setting off down the river, check out CultureMap's five essential tips for tubing this summer.

There's a unique new spa making a splash in the small town of Gonzales: Ottine Mineral Springs is finally celebrating its grand reopening after undergoing an extensive renovation. The 40-acre historic site was previously home to two private mineral-fed pools, but now the property is dotted with five new pools of varying adjustable temperatures, outdoor dining options, saunas, cold plunges, cabanas, fire pits, and much more. Day passes are $65 on weekdays and $75 on weekends.

Fredericksburg's beautiful new Albert Hotel, whichopened in January, is adding a new barbecue restaurant inspired by the area's German heritage. Junebug's BBQ will open Friday, June 6, serving barbecue classics such as brisket, pork ribs, house-made sausages, and more. Junebug's BBQ will have limited hours from June 6-9, serving food from 2 pm until it’s sold out. Starting June 12, Junebug’s will operate regular hours from Thursdays through Sundays, from 11 am until sold out.

Junebug's BBQ is ready to open at the Albert Hotel. junebugsbbq.com

TV stars Chip and Joanna Gaines' signature restaurant Magnolia Table in Waco has introduced a new summer menu, featuring dishes like a brunch slider flight and a spicy peach fizz mocktail. The nearby Silos Baking Co. and Magnolia Press café have also added new items on their seasonal summer menus, including a peaches and cream cupcake and a ham and cheddar croissant sandwich. Reservations for Magnolia Table can be made via OpenTable.

Houston

Texas-based luxury bus service Vonlane will debut daily service between Dallas and The Woodlands on Friday, June 13. The new route will pick up travelers at Woodlands Waterway Marriott Hotel & Convention Center and drop off at Dallas' Doubletree Love Field hotel. The ride will take 3 hours and 15 minutes. This will be a second Houston-area destination for Dallas, as Vonlane already offers service to downtown Houston. Tickets can be booked online; fares are a flat rate of $125 for one-way trips with advance purchase. No taxes, baggage fees, or change fees apply.

Tokyo X, one of Houston's premier celebrations of Japanese culture, is returning to NRG Center from June 14-15, promising celebrities, food, martial arts, anime, and more. Highlights of the festival include the Hot Import Nights Japanese car show series, a ramen showdown, and an anime convention featuring cosplay contests, panels, and voice actor appearances. Tickets can be purchased via Eventbrite. Saturday tickets are $36.22 per person, Sunday tickets are $ 30.48 per person, and two-day badges are $59.21 per person.

Along the Gulf Coast

The coastal city of Corpus Christi will celebrate its annual Mural Fest during the first week of June, showcasing its colorful large-scale murals in the Marina Arts District. During the Artist Week days from June 2-5, visitors can take self-guided tours to watch artists paint murals live throughout downtown, and collect "artographs." The festival will draw to a close on Saturday, June 7, with a block party on South Chaparral Street from 3-9 pm. More information about daily events during Mural Fest can be found via Visit Corpus Christi.

Mural Fest in Corpus Christi Mural Fest will take place during the first week of June in downtown Corpus Christi. Photo courtesy of Visit Corpus Christi

Across Dallas-Fort Worth

A long anticipated Fort Worth hotel and restaurant have arrived: The Nobleman Fort Worth, Tapestry Collection by Hilton and the hotel’s in-house restaurant Duchess, have opened at 503 Bryan Ave., with fabulous accommodations and food from celebrity chef Casey Thompson. The property has 121 guest rooms and 32 extended-stay suites with kitchenettes. Hotel amenities include a pool, state-of-the-art fitness center, and 2,000 square feet of meeting and outdoor event spaces, along with terraces. Nightly rates begin at $162 in June.

Dallas' Perot Museum of Nature and Science recently reopened the Moody Family Children's Museum, unveiling an extensively renovated 11,000-square-foot space sprawling with educational and science-centered activities. Among the new areas for children to explore are an immersive multi-sensory Imaginarium, an expanded toddler area, a hands-on maker area, an open-air outdoor space, and a fiber art playscape created by Toshiko MacAdam. Non-member general admission to the Perot Museum ($15 for children aged 2-12, and $25 for adults and children 13 and older) also includes access to the children's museum.

summer vacation travel texas dallas fort worth hotels festivals spas hill country wineries