It wasn’t even minutes after the official time on the invitation to Raising the Barre when Caracol was bursting at the seams with balletomanes arriving fashionably on time. One could even say that on Sunday, April 28, the coastal Mexican kitchen was donning its eating pants — with savoir-faire and springtime class, of course — as Houston Ballet supporters have a reputation for impeccable taste and panache.
Why not indulge in wood-roasted Gulf oysters on the half-shell kissed with chipotle butter, cheese, and toasted breadcrumbs? Or a plantain fritter topped with a rich mole? Or spicy ceviche served on a crisp tortilla tartlet shell? Make that ‘and’ instead of ‘or’ as Hugo Ortega surely was on a mission to show his VIPs only the best of southern hospitality by passing tray after tray after tray of these palatable finger foods. Co-chairs Heidi and Marcus Smith and Roslyn and Derrick Mitchell had concocted a sold-out showcase that linked culinary arts and dance, pairing chefs with Houston Ballet dancers to tell entertaining tales of creative connections.
And it was evident that Roslyn Mitchell had ballet in her past as she greeted guests with her pumps perched in fourth position. As for the hubby, Derrick Mitchell was proudly sporting one of his wife’s colorful creations, a limited edition pocket square from her line, RoKi Design, founded in 2019 with business partner Kimberly Phipps-Nichol.
The lively chatter gradually crescendoed into an animated buzz as guests eagerly anticipated the four-course dinner honoring the 54-year-old ballet company.
Ortega, the winner of the Best Chef: Southwest at the 2017 James Beard Awards, of H-Town Restaurant Group was in notable epicurean company that included Bludorn’s Aaron Bludorn, Chris Williams of Lucille’s, and Rebecca Masson of Fluff Bake Bar. On the ballet’s team were principal Skylar Campbell, soloist Eric Best, demi soloist Kellen Hornbuckle, and corps de ballet Zoe Lucich. Add Chris Shepherd of Southern Smoke Foundation as sommelier to this ensemble, and therein lies the reason why this Raising the Barre was a must on the guests’ dance card.
The dinner in four acts started in 2011 as a Ballet Barre young professionals rendezvous imagined by the coterie’s principal personalities Kristy Bradshaw and Lindsey Brown (Brown would later marry Shepherd). We're talking about harking back to the days of Shepherd’s Catalan and Underbelly restaurants, where the event was hosted in its early stages. This edition was as popular as bacon and crème brûlée, and everyone wants that party in their mouths.
Bon appétit.
Williams’ braised lamb stew with sweet potato purée, coconut collard green pesto, and peanuts was a satisfying overture that paid homage to Best’s mother, who often elevated African-inspired dishes, Best recounted. The combination of sweet and savory, made with vegetables from Williams’ production farm, also included a surprising protein—goat. A nine-herbed ravioli by Bludorn for Lucich played on both of their upbringings in California. As Lucich joked, herbs create a dance in your taste buds. Ortega and Skylar joined forces for Pacific halibut in ginger broth and puya peppers.
About the bacon brûlée reference? That was Masson’s brilliant idea for her 12th Raising the Barre event. She paired both for the rich finale, which, for Hornbuckle, represented the yin and yang of her parents: a bougie dame from the East Coast and a humble guy from Alabama. That sweet and salty pas de deux was worthy of a standing o.
Seen among the 200 gourmands were Lenni and Bill Burke, Lily Jang and Julien Nolan, Zoe Cadore, Jane DiPaolo, Mignon and Stephen Gill, Carey Kirkpatrick, Ann Graham, Victoria Gutierrez and Nick Pierce, Miya Shay and Gene Wu, Jesse H. Jones II and Terry Wayne Jones, Patti Murphy, Beth Muecke, Tammy and Wayne Nguyen, Cabrina and Steven Owsley, Laura and Brannon Robertson, Helen and Jim Shaffer, Marguerite Swartz, Ileana and Michael Treviño, Stephanie and Frank Tsuru, Allison and Troy Thacker, and Dina Munroe-Whitaker.
Photo by Melissa Taylor
Eric Best and chef Chris Williams put the finishing touches on their dish.
