If food gives folks a reason to join and jubilate, then it’s only fitting that Juneteenth, in the Culinary Capital of the South — which is Houston — is observed with a gourmet experience that exhibits the best of Black culture on a plate. Or many plates. And in cocktail stemware.
Juneteenth Jubilee: The Cookout became a cook-in on Wednesday, June 19, courtesy of the precipitation that had taken over afternoon forecasts. The 75 guests lucky enough to score a ticket to the sold-out freedom feast were treated to a five-course seated dinner at what’s set to open in the fall as the Hotel King David, located two miles from Emancipation Park, and its modern Creole restaurant Augustine's.
The culinary vision of hosts Houstonian and Top Chef finalist Dawn Burrell and Toni Tipton-Martin, a James Beard Award-winning food and nutrition journalist and authority on African American food, was complemented by an impressive roster of localebrities. They included 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist Ope Amosu of ChòpnBlọk, Joseph Boudreaux of Boo’s Burgers, Anitra Broussard of Riel, 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist Tristen Epps of Epps & Flows, 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist Greg Gatlin of Gatlin’s BBQ, Dominick Lee of Augustine’s, Florangel Polanco of Flor y Miel, Shannen Tune of Craft Burger, Lawrence Walker of Winnie’s, and Khalieb Rufael and Olayemi Thomas of Spice Boyz Supper Klub.
Before the meal commenced, attendees joined in harmony, singing James Weldon Johnson’s Lift Every Voice and Sing, a 125-year-old hymn considered by many to be the Black National Anthem.
The brigade de cuisine put on quite a show with passed hors d'oeuvres like injera crisps with whipped shiro and fresh pepper; and refried red beans with turkey neck, cornbread, and puffed rice. Supper featured green tomato crab salad with spicy tomato consommé, pea shoot oil, and fried shallots; fried chicken with compressed watermelon, chicken crackling, pickled beets, beet fluff, roasted garlic oil, mint, and feta; smoked oxtails with yam and sweet potato porridge and crispy turnip greens; and tasso pork collar with suya peanut and charred onion relish, romaine lettuce, fermented cantaloupe, and crispy rice.
For those with more room to grow, sweet endings included plantain bread pudding with dulce de leche ice cream and coconut-fried chick.
Tipples were crafted from Tipton-Martin’s Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs, and Juice: Cocktails From Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks. Selections included sparkling watermelon lemonade made with Houston-based, Black-owned Highway Vodka; and Planter’s Punch with Flor de Caña Rum, pomegranate, and citrus.
Epicureans were also offered a taste of what’s to come when the King David Hotel opens later this year. The setting, a stunningly restored 1935 manse in the Third Ward's historic Riverside Terrace neighborhood, surely added to the allure of the event.
Among the joyful crew were Kim and Darryl Eustache, Erika Harrison, Shay Bryson, Gabrielle del Bosque, Lorece Shaw, Indiana Joseph, Brittney Dixon-Bello, Vanessa Hall, Kendra Eustache, and Nneka Kanu.
Photo by Michael Anthony
Darryl and Kim Eustache.
