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    What's Eric Eating Episode 287

    Meet the good citizen behind Montrose's Aussie-styled cafe and coffee shop, plus hottest restaurant news

    CultureMap Staff
    Jun 15, 2023 | 3:00 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Andrew Geisel joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Citizens, the Australian-style cafe that recently opened its first Houston location in Montrose. The new restaurant joins Citizens' three existing locations in New York City.



    The conversation begins with Geisel explaining his decision to move from Australia to New York. Ultimately, he partnered with fellow Aussie Justin Giuffrida to open the first Citizens in New York's Chelsea neighborhood. Geisel explains the differences between an Australian cafe and a traditional American coffee shop, shares how Citizens survived the pandemic, and explains why the company chose Houston for its expansion.

    Sandler notes that Citizens has opened near a number of breakfast and all-day concepts, including Blacksmith, Snooze, and Picnik. He asks Geisel how he sees Citizens standing out.

    It's a really important question to answer. In essence, we're comfortable for a few reasons. Going back to Australia, there's really great cafes on every corner. The idea of saturation is something we're used to. We've operated in New York. There's tremendous offerings near our New York stores.

    Good competition makes you be a better business. Strong competition raises the bar. Rather than call it competition, it's inspiring. I think when you have a high concentration of really wonderful bars and restaurants in an area, it really shines a spotlight on the area. It's something you want to be part of. The important thing becomes, how can we very clearly define who we are and what our voice is? How is it different from the other players in the area?

    The idea is, why would you want to come to Citizens right now? What can we do for that's unique to us that you're not going to get at those other businesses? The breakfast with really high quality table service, genuine Aussie hospitality, and a menu offering that is diverse in both coffee and food. A menu that gives you everything from fresher, lighter, healthier bites to more hearty pieces. I find that to be something I'm very proud to represent.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: Street to Kitchen chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Texas; Bun B and his business partners opening a brick and mortar location of Trill Burgers; and Cocody, a new restaurant from Le Mistral veterans David Denis and Sylvain Denis that's coming to River Oaks this summer.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson discuss their recent meals at two newly opened restaurants. First, they rave about Albi, a fine dining Mediterranean restaurant in River Oaks. Then, they consider The Chelsea, the stylish bistro in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturdays at 2 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Citizens of Montrose Andrew Geisel Justin Guiffrida

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Andrew Geisel, left, is this week's guest.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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