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    wine guy wednesday

    Chris Shepherd breaks bread with Houston's 7 master sommeliers

    Chris Shepherd
    Apr 23, 2025 | 2:06 pm
    Chris Shepherd master sommelier dinner

    Clockwine from front: June Rodil, Julie Dalton, Keith Goldston, Jack Mason, Steven McDonald, Chris Shepherd, Guy Stout, and Brandon Kerne.

    Courtesy of Chris Shepherd

    This week something amazing happened that I didn’t see coming. Well, not exactly, I should say.

    Last year at Southern Smoke’s Decanted fundraiser, we auctioned off a night at our house where I would make snacks and all the master sommeliers in Houston would bring a bottle that meant something special to them. Did I ever think all seven of Houston’s master sommeliers would be able to find one night that they would all be available? Not really, because I know how busy they all are.

    Then the day came, and the stars aligned perfectly — it happened! Two of them may have flown in that day — including one who landed an hour before the event after an 9-hour flight home — but it happened, and it was magical. Let me drop some tidbits of information about how special this was.

    According to Wikipedia, here is what it takes to become a Master Sommelier.

    Those who wish to take the Master Sommelier exam must have passed the Advanced exam, be invited or recommended to sit the exam, and have typically worked in the industry for at least 10 years. The exam covers all aspects of the world and industry of wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, and hospitality from a business, service and philosophical approach. The three part, oral exam consists of theory (must be passed before taking the other two parts), blind tasting six wines before a panel, and service; the three sections do not need be attempted at once.

    The typical pass rate at the Master Sommelier exam is around 3–8 percent of applicants; in some instances as few as 1 in 70 have succeeded . . . Only 14 people have ever passed the Master level on the first try.

    Currently there are 279 Master Sommeliers in the world, and seven work and live right here in Houston. Why is that? You are the reason! Houstonians drink wine, quite a bit of it actually. From working in distribution, running restaurant programs, education and sales to owning a winery, there is a lot for an MS to do here.

    I have cooked at a lot of dinners with amazing chefs each doing a course, and those events are magical. This event was similar in thought process, since each one of these amazing people brought something to the party that meant something to them.

    There are very few times that you get seven people at the top of their chosen careers that open up their thoughts, hearts, and cellars to find one bottle that means something emotional to them. You don’t get seven of the greatest doctors in the world to look at you all at the same time when you have a cold. Seven of the greatest NBA players in the world to play Horse with you in the backyard, or seven of the greatest singers to sing you a lullaby at night.

    But that greatness happened, and I saw it, tasted it, and got to cook for it. They came together not just for a fun night. They all believe in the work that the Southern Smoke Foundation is doing to help change the food and beverage industry. I want to thank the lovely couple that purchased this lot for their belief in the organization because, without them, this would not have happened.

    You wanna know what wines these sommeliers brought to dinner? My wife Lindsey recorded every one of them describing what they brought, and then she transcribed it because she is amazing and quite frankly, I’m just not that talented.

    Let’s be honest. I write these article in the Notes App on my phone because I don’t own or know how to use a computer. Please enjoy, and, while you’re reading, understand the commitment and the knowledge that these folks have. Let’s cheer on those that are on the path to achieve this goal as well.

    Let your next sommelier guide you and see what your night turns into. I bet it’s magical.

    Guy Stout: Stout Cabernet 2014 and Kyla

    “It’s my wine. 2014 was a great vintage. We only did a few magnums, and I wanted to share with our friends. I also brought Kyla, which is the swan song from Stout Vineyards in Blanco, Texas. This was the last vintage from my vineyard of 20 years. We made a pet-nat. It’s Syrah and Tempranillo. It means a lot to me — this is the last wine that we made from our vineyard before we invested in Napa and started the Stout Napa project.”

    Julie Dalton: Donnhoff Dellchen 2016 GG

    “Riesling is my reason, and I thought it would be fun to show why it should be everyone’s reason. People don’t realize how delicious dry Riesling is, and I thought it would be a cool opportunity — looking at the menu with the pork and the duck and the cheeses — all of these salty, rich things want an explosion of acidity and brightness. That’s what dry Riesling does. Dry Riesling is the perfect way to incorporate an aria into any symphony of food.”

    Keith Goldston: 2013 Olivier Bernstein Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

    “What I brought tonight was a little red Burgundy because when in doubt, you might as well go for the heartbreaker grape, Pinot Noir. Olivier Bernstein is this rockstar in Burgundy who doesn’t make many wines, came in from the outside, and you just don’t see them. We happened to have a 2013 magnum hanging out, and it seemed like the perfect night for it.”

    Brandon Kerne: St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densite Hubert Lamy 2021, 1989 Chateau Pape Clement, 2022 Joannes Violot-Guillemard Aux Clous, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France

    “I brought St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard because everybody loves them some reductive blended chardonnay right now. We needed enough to go around, so always bring a magnum! And then the 89 Pape Clement is old Bordeaux we source directly from the estate, top vintage, top estate, and almost 40 years old now. This Violot-Guilleard is something we just got in, something that I found in Burgundy that I spent two years trying to bring in. It just landed, so I wanted to share with my friends.”

    Steven McDonald: 2012 Ca' Brusa Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai

    “I brought the Ca’ Brusa Barolo Riserva. Why? Because I’m pretty much on brand with my love of the Nebbiolo grape. This is a great example of one of the top riservas of the Monforte region of Barolo. It’s drinking great, and everything is better in a magnum.”

    Jack Mason: Guilio Ferrari 2002

    “This is Guilio Ferrari, the top wine of Ferrari in Trentodoc in Trentino, Italy. This is 100 percent Chardonnay aged over 10 years on the lees. This was ’02 but disgorged in ’15 in magnum. I love Trentodoc, because it’s got the alpine freshness and absolutely delicious.”

    June Rodil: 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets and Champagne Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion’ 2013

    “I brought two bottles because everyone else brought magnums, and I wanted to be equal! First bottle is 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets. It’s not really about the producer — it’s more about the vintage for me. It’s ’07, and it’s been sitting in my cellar so I wanted to share it. Also, the first year I went to Burgundy was in 2010, and we were drinking ‘07s. And it was really special. Also because critics poopooed on this year, and they were totally wrong! This is fabulous and drinking really well! I wouldn’t hold it anymore — I would drink it now.

    Second, in honor of one of the greatest ladies in wine of all time, Martine was an importer. May she ever rest in peace. She just passed away. She imported this wine. When she was importing, it was the first time I ever had this wine. Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion.' 100 percent Chardonnay. Delicious. So good! 2013 Vintage. Drop the mic! One of the best tête de cuvée from an independent producer.”

    -----

    What wine would you bring to a dinner at Chris's house? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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    meet the tastemakers

    These 10 restaurants and pop-ups serve Houston's best sandwiches

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 9, 2026 | 4:54 pm
    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

    Surely one of the most tired debates in Houston food is whether or not the city has good sandwiches. Usually, these complaints come from East Coast transplants who are disappointed by the lack of cold cut, Italian deli-style sandwiches.

    Allow us to illustrate the point with this year’s wildcard category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Best Sandwich.

    The nominees in this category demonstrate that Houston restaurants produce an endless array of banh mi, tortas, po’ boys, wraps, and, yes, one of the premier Jewish delis anywhere in the country. In addition to the old school favorites, a new crop of sandwich-obsessed pop-ups are raising the game.

    Who will win? Find out at our Tastemaker Awards ceremony April 16 at Silver Street Studios. Dine on bites from this year’s nominees, sip cocktails from our sponsors, and witness as we reveal the winners. Buy your tickets now. A limited number of Early Bird General Admission tickets remain. VIP tickets offer early entry, valet parking, and more perks. All tickets will sell out before the event, so don't wait.

    B'Tween Sandwich Co.
    After a lengthy stint as Greg Gatlin’s right hand at Gatlin’s BBQ and Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers, Wallace went out on her own with this sandwich pop-up. In addition to her familiar biscuit sandwiches, Wallace has been collaborating with other restaurants, creating a Cajun fish sandwich at fellow nominee Stuffed Belly and a butter chicken sandwich at Tastemaker Awards winner Burger Bodega. Discover Wallace’s latest creations every first and third Sunday of the month at the Rice Village farmers market.

    Bayou Butchers
    At this pop-up, chef Garrett Rice showcases his knowledge of meat. He dry ages ribeyes for Bayou Butchers’ signature Philly cheesesteak and makes his own pistachio-studden mortadella. Recently, he collaborated with chef Gabe Medina on a Spam sandwich that sold out quickly.

    Cali Sandwich & Pho
    For more than 30 years, this Midtown restaurant has been serving classic Vietnamese fare to Houstonians who appreciate a good deal on a tasty meal. The signature barbecue pork banh mi is always popular, as are the shredded chicken and steamed BBQ pork. While the days of $2 sandwiches may be over, Cali still offers a very satisfying lunch that only costs about $5.

    Craft Pita
    Diners may think of this Lebanese restaurant as primarily a bowl concept, but chef-owner Raffi Nasr knows a thing or two about sandwiches. Last year, he jumped on the viral chicken Caesar wrap with his own spin that used Craft Pita’s rotisserie chicken and its garlicky toum. More recently, he s introduced a crispy shawarma with a griddled pita and chicken skin for extra crunch.

    Kenny & Ziggy's
    Houstonians of all creeds flock to this Jewish deli for sandwiches that range from classics — such as corned beef and pastrami that are cured and smoked in-house — to more over-the-top creations like the Luck Be a Latke (brisket served between two potato pancakes) and the mammoth Zellagabetsky, an eight-layer, $116 sandwich that will best even the heartiest appetites. K&Z’s hot sandwiches, including an open-faced turkey with gravy, a Philly cheesesteak, and a classic French dip, are similarly can’t-miss.

    Local Foods
    With five Houston-area locations and two Austin outposts, this restaurant is among Houston’s most successful sandwich purveyors. Standouts include the “Crunchy” Chicken with its nut crumble and buttermilk ranch; the Gulf Seafood with its mixture of shrimp and crab that’s kicked up with green goddess dressing; and the Truffled Egg on a chewy pretzel bun. Vegetable sides sourced from area farms ensure the restaurant lives up to its name.

    Stuffed Belly
    Masterchef winner and James Beard Award finalist Christine Ha shares her love of sandwiches at this fast casual spot in Spring Branch. While Ha has built her reputation by making Vietnamese dishes, Stuffed Belly leans more traditionally American with options such as a patty melt, tuna salad, egg salad, and a grilled cheese. Specials, like this month’s Fish N Chips that gets added crunch from crushed kettle chips, ensure regulars always have something new to try.

    Thien An Sandwiches
    Like Cali Sandwich, this restaurant has built a devoted following for its affordable banh mi. The restaurant serves all the usual fillings, with the dac biet combo with pate among the standouts. Save room for the signature banh xeo, a crispy rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts.

    Winnie's
    This Midtown bar and restaurant would have earned a nomination solely for its definitive shrimp po’ boy, an overstuffed sandwich on bread from New Orleans’ iconic Leidenheimer Baking Company. Of course, the restaurant goes far beyond that with essentials like the Fried Chicken Crunch Wrap Supreme (made with Cool Ranch Doritos, of course) and weekly specials from the ever-restless mind of co-owner Graham Laborde. Top tier cocktails and some of Houston’s best wings only enhance Winnie’s appeal.

    Yuma
    This pop-up, which will soon open its first brick-and-mortar location on Washington Avenue, has built its reputation by blending Cuban and Brazilian flavors. Its menu includes a classic Cuban sandwich, the Sampa Gallo chicken sandwich, and the A Caipira, a Brazilian take on a cheesesteak. Yuma also creates sandwiches inspired by other cultures, such as the Vietnamese-style El Penny Cubano Banh Mi — made with mojo pork and ham that’s topped with Gruyere, garlic aioli, pate, pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, and jalapeno.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, NTX LVL Event, Shutto and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke

    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

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