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    P&P chef's new home

    Pass & Provisions star chef reunites with Local Foods owner to helm culinary operations

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 16, 2023 | 1:15 pm
    Seth Siegel-Gardner

    Seth Siegel-Gardner is now working with Benjy Levit.

    Photo by Ben Sassani

    One of Houston’s top chefs has joined a prominent local restaurant group. Seth Siegel-Gardner is the new culinary and creative director for Benjy Levit’s restaurants — a group that includes sandwich and salad concept Local Foods, gourmet grocer Local Foods Market, French restaurant Eau Tour, wine bar Lees Den, and Maximo Canteen, a new Mexican restaurant that will open in the former El Topo space.

    Best known for his time as the co-owner of The Pass & Provisions, Siegel-Gardner also brings experience working for celebrity chefs Marcus Samuelsson and Gordon Ramsay. Most recently, he’s served as culinary director for the Southern Smoke Foundation. He’s also a co-owner of the Marfa Spirit Co. with Agricole Hospitality co-owner Morgan Weber and Josh Shepard.

    Siegel-Gardner and Levit have worked together in the past, including in 2019 when the chef helped revamp the menu for Benjy’s restaurant in Rice Village. In his new role, he’ll work with the company’s existing chefs, including Local Foods chef-partner Dylan Murray, on everything from menu development to staffing and HR. He’s also working with Levit on what he describes as “long term crazy ideas.”

    What does that mean, chef?

    “A very crazy idea is wanting to build a gym — wellness, food, fitness — figuring out a way we could get into that space,” he says.

    What about opening a new restaurant of your own that would build on the legacy of The Pass & Provisions, widely considered one of Houston's best during its run from 2012-19?

    “That’s always a possibility. I’ve got a million ideas in my head of concepts I would love to do,” he says. “A lot of times it’s a little more strategic thinking about timing and then creating longevity for the concept. Wanting to build iconic restaurants instead of flash in the pan restaurants.”

    In the short term, he’s working with chef Tony Luhrman on the evolution of his Mexican restaurant El Topo into Maximo Canteen. As CultureMap reported this summer, Luhrman partnered with Levit on the project, which was originally going to be called Teshica. Although details are still being finalized, Siegel-Gardner does share a few things they’re working on for the restaurant.

    “One of the biggest pushes we’re giving Tony will be the way it feels inside. We’re totally gutting it. It will be a different service style,” he says.

    Plans also call for expanding the restaurant’s taco offerings that are made with heirloom corn tortillas. Specifically, Maximo will add fish tacos to El Topo’s existing roster.

    “I think Berryhill left a huge vacuum when they left town. I crave fish tacos all the time,” he says. “We need a great place to do that. Tony is already making incredible tortillas. We have great relationships with Frixos [Chrisinis of Blue Horizon Wholesale Seafood] and other seafood vendors. Let’s get all these people together to own that space a little bit.”

    While the chef’s daily involvement with Southern Smoke has come to an end, he says he’ll always remain affiliated with the organization. Towards that end, Eau Tour will serve a crispy pork rillette with champagne cane vinegar reduction throughout November; the restaurant will donate 100-percent of the dish’s proceeds to Southern Smoke. He’ll also continue to participate in fundraiser such as one this week at Riel.

    Eau Tour pork riletteEau Tour will serve these pork rilettes in November.Photo by Kent Domas

    “Whenever they need me, they know to pick up the neon yellow Southern Smoke bat phone. I will always answer,” he says.

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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