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    save the swamp thing

    Pappas restaurant group grills City of Houston over its future at Hobby Airport

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 24, 2023 | 12:20 pm
    Pappas Bar-B-Q Hobby airport

    Pappas is fighting to remain at Hobby.

    Photo by Julia Casbarian

    A fight has broken out between one of Houston’s most prominent restaurant groups and the City of Houston over the future of its restaurants at Hobby Airport. Pappas Restaurants has launched a social media campaign — dubbed #SaveOurPappas — calling on supporters to urge Houston City Council to reject a proposed concessions contract with Areas, a subsidiary of the Spain-based Areas SAU.

    As reported in the Houston Chronicle, the 10-year, $470 million dollar deal would end Pappas Restaurant’s 20-year tenure at Hobby. If approved, Areas, which operates concessions in more than 80 airports worldwide and nine in the United States, would bring local restaurants to Hobby such as Killen’s Barbecue, SpindleTap Brewery, Thoroughgood Coffee, and Galveston’s The Spot.

    The proposal also includes national chains such as Raising Cane’s and Longhorn Steakhouse.

    Getting to this point has required three RFPs since 2019, including one in December 2021 that the city canceled in September 2022. The proposed contract comes from bids submitted in October 2022. In January, council approved a separate, 10-year agreement with LaTrelle’s Management that will bring local restaurants such as Dish Society, Fat Cat Creamery, and Common Bond to Hobby.

    Pappas director of marketing Christina Pappas tells CultureMap that the company has concerns about how city scored the bids to determine the winner. The company’s proposal includes many of its popular restaurants, including Pappasito’s, Pappas Burger, Pappadeaux, and Pappas Delta Blues Smokehouse. It also includes local bakery the Original Kolache Shoppe and Chick-fil-A.

    “We’re asking for transparency. We’re asking to look at the score cards,” she says. “We’re asking to see what the numbers look like. We’re asking why one of the RFPs was abruptly canceled. We’re asking that council is provided with all the information they need to make the decision that’s best for the City of Houston.”

    The city has declined requests to release the scoring sheets, the Chronicle reports.

    In a lengthy statement provided by Mary Benton, communications director for Mayor Sylvester Turner, the city says it is “disheartened” by the “inaccuracies and disinformation” of Pappas’ allegations. Benton notes that the same bid process awarded Pappas the airport contract 20 years ago.

    “The competitive procurement process does not measure the quality of an individual, but rather the rate of return received by the City of Houston and the quality of service provided to passengers,” she said. “The rate of return is not the same as projected sales. The proposed awardee offered a significantly higher rate of return and delivered the local concepts sought after by Houston Airports through this procurement process. The City of Houston is obligated by law to make its decision based on the results of the procurement process — not a popularity contest.”

    Christina Pappas acknowledges that Areas has offered the city a higher rate of return but argues that the Pappas’ bid reflects its own data from 20 years of experience.

    “We’ve operated at Hobby. We know how much money it can make,” she says. “We want to make sure the numbers we are proposing are sustainable for business and not just to get a bid.”

    While the Areas bid does include the local restaurants mentioned above, Pappas questions how deeply involved those restaurants will be with their airport locations. “Are those brands operating it or is the concessions group operating it,” she asks. “Are you going to have the level of service you receive at those other locals restaurants or are you going to have another airport group and their level of quality?”

    Ultimately, the decision is up to Houston City Council, which will vote to approve or reject the contract next week. If it approves the proposed deal and Pappas departs, the days of waiting out a layover with a couple of frozen Swamp Thing cocktails will soon come to an end.

    news/restaurants-bars
    popular

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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