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    What's Eric Eating Episode 268

    Meet the talented team behind Upper Kirby's inventive 'new Japanese' restaurant, plus hottest food news

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 27, 2023 | 12:22 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Money Cat chef-owner Sherman Yeung and chef de cuisine Jio Dingayan join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the new restaurant that recently opened in Upper Kirby. The conversation begins with both chefs discussing how they entered the culinary world and began working together at Katy's well-regarded Tobiuo Sushi & Bar.

    Money Cat food spread
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
    A selection of dishes from Money Cat.



    From there, they turn to Money Cat. While the restaurant serves a full range of different kinds of sushi — including sashimi, maki, and nigiri — it also features creative riffs such as a tomato salad with cheese foam, chutoro toast, and tempura fried maitake mushrooms. As Yeung explains, he didn't want Money Cat to be a clone of Tobiuo.

    "It's not traditionally Japanese. I play around with 'new Japanese,' where we draw a lot of inspiration from Japanese ingredients and techniques," Yeung says. "We're not adhered to Japanese. Chef Jio and I want to explore Asian culture. That's why I call it new Japanese."

    Also worth noting is that Dingayan has a lot of responsibility for a 22-year old chef. Sandler asks him about leading a team of chefs who are likely older and more experienced than he is.

    "The thing I project the most is compassion and empathy. You want to work with someone who tries to understand you through the good and the bad, and that's what I try to do with each one of my cooks," Dingayan says. "I think teaching humanity really shines a light on what we're trying to do. We're not just cooks. We're humans, too, and you should know who's cooking your food."

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: il Bracco owner Western Addition Restaurant Group opening Balboa Surf Club in the same Galleria-area shopping center; the imminent closure of Tex-Mex restaurant Spanish Flowers; and the opening of Bayou Heights Bier Garten with a barbecue menu created by chef Teddy Lopez.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler share first impressions of Gatsby's Prime Seafood. They also discuss a recent meal at Home Slice Pizza, the Austin-based restaurant that opened in Midtown.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at noon on ESPN 97.5.

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    riel returns

    Shuttered Houston restaurant revived for 1 night only at Canada Day pop-up

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 19, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Riel truffle caviar pierogi
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    The pop-up will serve Riel's caviar and truffle pierogi.

    One of the saddest restaurant closures of 2025 will get a one-night-only revival. Favorite dishes from Riel will return at Chardon on Sunday, June 28 for an event being called “Booze Can Sunday.”

    While a French fine dining restaurant might seem like an unlikely host for a Riel revival, Chardon executive chef E.J. Miller once served as Riel’s opening sous chef. Miller invited his former boss, Riel chef-owner Ryan Lachaine, to join him for a pop-up that honors Canada Day.

    Together, the duo will serve some of Riel’s most popular dishes, including:

    • Truffle and Caviar Pierogies
    • Steak Au Poivre Poutine with Cheese Curds
    • Deli Dog
    • Montreal Smoked Meat Sliders
    • Torche Kolaches
    • Mushroom Empanadas
    • Gator Karaage
    • Maple Whiskey Soft Serve with Foie Caram

    The day will also feature drink specials such as Canadian Jell-O Shots, Molson X, Canadian Club, Old Grand-Dad, and more. Robin Wong, a co-owner of Blood Bros. BBQ and a successful DJ, will spin throughout the event.

    Riel truffle caviar pierogi

    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    The pop-up will serve Riel's caviar and truffle pierogi.

    "Riel was a special place for a lot of people, and Booze Can Sunday was always one of the most anticipated events of the week," said Miller. "Ryan and I wanted to bring back that energy for one day, celebrate the restaurant that meant so much to us, and give guests a chance to revisit some of the dishes and memories they loved."

    Riel Restaurant Ryan Lachaine E.J. Miller A vintage picture of chefs EJ Miller and Ryan Lachaine. Photo by Eric Sandler

    Riel opened in January 2017 and closed in August 2025. In between, it earned wide acclaim for the way Lachaine blended his Canadian upbringing and Ukrainian heritage with the modern Gulf Coast cuisine he learned while working at restaurants such as Reef and Underbelly.

    Currently, Lachaine works as the executive chef at River Oaks restaurant State of Grace. He added two Riel signatures to State of Grace’s menu — the caviar tater tots and signature butter burgers.

    Chardon, which earned a Best New Restaurant nomination in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards for its blend of classic French fare with Texas ingredients, opened in February 2025. In addition to Riel, Miller’s resume includes SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, International Smoke, and Muse.

    Booze Can Sunday takes place from 3-9 pm. Attendees are encouraged to register on Eventbrite.

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