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    Rare wines, reasonable prices

    Chris Shepherd checks out a Spring Branch wine bar loaded with vintage bottles

    Chris Shepherd
    Mar 20, 2024 | 1:00 pm

    A few weeks back my wife Lindsey and I decided to have a date night and only went to places we had never visited before. We had heard about a wine bar that we needed to check out — thank you Erin Smith, you were right! The name of the place is The Library. It’s a quaint little spot on Long Point Road just down the street from our friends at Feges BBQ (hence, the suggestion from Erin, who owns Feges BBQ with her husband Patrick Feges).

    This place is about as legit as a wine bar gets — the list is awesome. The depth of varietals, producers, and vintages is quite impressive, and the staff is about as nice and knowledgeable as they come.

    It took me quite a while to narrow down our choice, but we settled on a bottle of Maison Harbour Meursault 1er Cru “Blagny” 2018. It was absolutely delicious. This wine comes from a producer that I am not familiar with, but that’s okay. Different sections on the list highlight some of the staff's favorite producers.

    “Our ‘featured producers’ are chosen based on the ridiculously subjective criteria of producing wines that are, in our humble opinion, ‘soulful,’” general manager Brennan Harmeier explains. “They produce distinctive wines that tell a story no one else is telling and contribute an important chapter in the historical context of a region. These are wines that move us, and we think they have the ability to make a connection with others, too. Subjective? Yes, but wine can do that to you.”

    The list is heavy on Old World selections which means a large collection of European wines from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria and others. Price points are really fantastic — you can go in and spend anywhere from $35 to whatever your heart and budget desire.

    Why was I so impressed? I feel like this list was built for me, because so many of the older and really good vintages are available for very fair prices. They have vintages that date back to the ‘60s, which means you can try wines that are 40-50+ years old. I like to drink stuff that has some age on it, 10-20 years, and this list is chock full of choices.

    Older white and red Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo, domestic Cabernet Sauvignon, and vintage Champagnes are all over the place in this small spot in a strip center on Long Point next to a hair salon across the street from a carniceria. This is Houston, and I am here for it!

    Library wine bar spring branch
      

    Courtesy of The Library

    Find vintage bottles at The Library.

    Brennan and owner Jason Eubanks worked for two years before The Library opened to build up their inventory. It’s become a favorite of wine professionals — thanks again, Erin — looking for rare or unusual bottles.

    “It is wonderful to be able to share our wines with our guests and give them the opportunity to purchase vintage wines that they normally wouldn’t have access to unless they find themselves in a high end steak house or part of some waitlisted wine club where people are fighting tooth and nail to get their hands on a library release,” Harmeier said. “Honestly, it is hard to pick just one that I am looking forward to opening for our guests. But I have always favored older Champagne, and we do have a 1985 Krug that I wouldn't mind having the opportunity to taste.”

    Brennan’s Three Favorite Wines on the List:

    • 2002 Ployez-Jacquemart "Liesse d'Harbonville" Brut. “I normally don’t go to Ployez as my go-to Champagne, but this particular wine is SINGING. I honestly want to hold one in storage for another 10 years and see where it goes.”
    • 2017 Arnaud Lambert Saumur "Clos de l'Etoile.” “Such a fabulous producer in Loire, and I don’t feel like enough exposure in our city is given to the wonderful red wines ofthis region. I could honestly go the rest of my life with just drinking the red wines from Saumur and Chinon.”
    • 2017 Von Winning Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trocken. “I feel like if you ask any sommelier what their favorite white wine is, they will all say Riesling. But there is a reason for that. The complexity of this particular one is just top tier. One you can sip on for hours and the only time you will be disappointed is when you pour out the last drop.”

    Why Long Point? Brennan says that owners Jason and Laurie Eubanks are longtime residents of the Spring Branch neighborhood and wanted to open a wine bar that was both close to home and the kind of place they’d want to go themselves. A deep wine list with heavy emphasis on the Old World, older vintages, friendly and knowledgeable service, great glassware, reasonable pricing, and a casual environment were all important details. Equally important was that The Library be a comfortable and welcoming neighborhood spot for Spring Branch locals who wanted a great glass of wine, regardless of price point.

    Long Point has very good visibility for almost every Spring Branch resident. New restaurants are popping up with some regularity that are also driving people to Long Point who may have previously gone to other neighborhoods for a night out.

    When you leave make sure you pop in a few doors down to Loose Cannon and say hello to little Bobbie McGee, the bar kitty, and have a frozen Pina Colada or any other of your favorite Tiki drinks. It’s an old school bar that I wish was next door to our house.

    Loose Cannon bar catStop by Loose Cannon to say hi to Bobbie McGee.Photo by Chris Shepherd

    -----

    What’s other hidden gems should our Wine Guy visit? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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    he finished the job

    Houston chef Tristen Epps dishes on his Top Chef victory — and what's next

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 13, 2025 | 9:05 am
    Top Chef Tristen Epps
    Photo by David Moir/Bravo
    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

    Houston has played a leading role in America’s culinary scene, but the city has never been home to a Top Chef winner — until last night. In the final episode of season 22, chef Tristen Epps earned the title and a $250,000 cash prize.

    Epps secured his victory by remaining true to the Afro-Caribbean cuisine that helped him secured an impressive four Elimination Challenge wins and $35,000 in additional prize money from two Quickfire wins and as a member of the team that won the show’s signature Restaurant Wars challenge. His four-course menu took a panel of celebrity judges on a journey that also referenced the finale location of Milan, Italy.

    In particular, Epps wowed the panel with his second course — Chicken “Durango” with injera shrimp toast and shellfish jus — that referenced both the Ethiopian chicken stew doro wat and the Italian dish pollo durango, a sly nod to the history of imperialism between the two countries. He finished his savory offerings with Oxtail Milanese Crepinette with Carolina Gold rice grits, curry butter, and bone marrow gremolata, which earned praised from the panel.

    “Historically, we’ve been underserved oxtail,” Top Chef alum and James Beard Award winner Gregory Gourdet said during the episode. “Tristen took the time to pull it, create that beautiful, huge, maybe too big, portion of oxtail. And cover it with that gremolata. He did not forget the bone marrow. That’s very, very smart.”

    Throughout Top Chef’s run, Epps has been holding a series of pop-ups devoted to everything from hot dogs to steakhouses. Now, he can turn his attention to Buboy, a tasting menu concept that will celebrate the Afro-Caribbean cuisine he championed throughout his time on the show.

    CultureMap caught up with Epps on Friday morning for a brief chat about his victory and what’s next.

    CultureMap: What do you remember from the day you cooked that final dinner?
    Tristen Epps: It was an extreme amount of focus. A lot of writing in my notebook. I didn’t want to laugh. I didn’t want to cry or do anything except finish the job, regardless of whatever the outcome would have been. I remember wanting to call my mom. I really wanted to talk things out so I could calm myself down and stay within my focus. Once I got into cooking, I felt so much at ease. It’s my happy place. It’s my serenity.

    CM: How did you feel when you saw Gregory Gourdet on the panel? Did you feel like you had an advocate in the room?
    TE: I’ve cooked with gregory before, a long time ago. It was really fun. I loved what he was doing.

    I felt like I had kind of an advocate. I was worried my food wold be too spicy or too overpowering [for the European chefs]. Seeing Gregory was really good, especially with what I was doing.

    CM: Other chefs, including Gregory Gourdet and Houston chef Dawn Burrell, have done well on the show with Afro-Caribbean cuisine but they didn’t win. How important was it to you to finish the job and use those flavors to win the title?
    TE: To me that was super important. There’s adventurous people who make phenomenal food. They’ll go once because it’s interesting, bu they’re usually skeptical. When you don’t nail it, they say, that’s why I go to the regular places that are familiar.

    Finishing the job was really important to me. People have come up short on this. I wanted to get this right for everyone who’s made that step forward and created the ladder.

    CM: What have your last 12 hours been like since the episode aired? Have any celebrities reached out to you?
    TE: A lot of calls, a lot of good luck. A lot of everything. It’s been amazing.

    A lot of past Top Chef winners reached out to me, giving me a lot of support and telling me what they did after they won.

    [ESPN football commentator] Mina Kimes did, which was really cool.

    CM: What are your plans for the prize money?
    TE: It’s going to go to Buboy. Now that the cat’s out of the bag, it can go a little faster.

    CM: You’ve been holding a series of pop-ups that range from tasting menus to hot dogs? What’s next?
    TE: Part of getting the restaurant open has been introducing myself to all of Houston. These pop-ups represent my interests and my fun. They’re the things that Buboy is going to represent. It can be fun, it can be a conversation, it can be educational, it can push the limits of cuisines we know. It’s an expression of culture in whatever way I see fit that day.

    The hot dog concept will probably be a separate venture, but who’s to say there’s not a hot dog at the end of that meal?

    Top Chef Tristen Epps
      

    Photo by David Moir/Bravo

    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

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