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    Rare wines, reasonable prices

    Chris Shepherd checks out a Spring Branch wine bar loaded with vintage bottles

    Chris Shepherd
    Mar 20, 2024 | 1:00 pm

    A few weeks back my wife Lindsey and I decided to have a date night and only went to places we had never visited before. We had heard about a wine bar that we needed to check out — thank you Erin Smith, you were right! The name of the place is The Library. It’s a quaint little spot on Long Point Road just down the street from our friends at Feges BBQ (hence, the suggestion from Erin, who owns Feges BBQ with her husband Patrick Feges).

    This place is about as legit as a wine bar gets — the list is awesome. The depth of varietals, producers, and vintages is quite impressive, and the staff is about as nice and knowledgeable as they come.

    It took me quite a while to narrow down our choice, but we settled on a bottle of Maison Harbour Meursault 1er Cru “Blagny” 2018. It was absolutely delicious. This wine comes from a producer that I am not familiar with, but that’s okay. Different sections on the list highlight some of the staff's favorite producers.

    “Our ‘featured producers’ are chosen based on the ridiculously subjective criteria of producing wines that are, in our humble opinion, ‘soulful,’” general manager Brennan Harmeier explains. “They produce distinctive wines that tell a story no one else is telling and contribute an important chapter in the historical context of a region. These are wines that move us, and we think they have the ability to make a connection with others, too. Subjective? Yes, but wine can do that to you.”

    The list is heavy on Old World selections which means a large collection of European wines from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria and others. Price points are really fantastic — you can go in and spend anywhere from $35 to whatever your heart and budget desire.

    Why was I so impressed? I feel like this list was built for me, because so many of the older and really good vintages are available for very fair prices. They have vintages that date back to the ‘60s, which means you can try wines that are 40-50+ years old. I like to drink stuff that has some age on it, 10-20 years, and this list is chock full of choices.

    Older white and red Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo, domestic Cabernet Sauvignon, and vintage Champagnes are all over the place in this small spot in a strip center on Long Point next to a hair salon across the street from a carniceria. This is Houston, and I am here for it!

    Library wine bar spring branch

    Courtesy of The Library

    Find vintage bottles at The Library.

    Brennan and owner Jason Eubanks worked for two years before The Library opened to build up their inventory. It’s become a favorite of wine professionals — thanks again, Erin — looking for rare or unusual bottles.

    “It is wonderful to be able to share our wines with our guests and give them the opportunity to purchase vintage wines that they normally wouldn’t have access to unless they find themselves in a high end steak house or part of some waitlisted wine club where people are fighting tooth and nail to get their hands on a library release,” Harmeier said. “Honestly, it is hard to pick just one that I am looking forward to opening for our guests. But I have always favored older Champagne, and we do have a 1985 Krug that I wouldn't mind having the opportunity to taste.”

    Brennan’s Three Favorite Wines on the List:

    • 2002 Ployez-Jacquemart "Liesse d'Harbonville" Brut. “I normally don’t go to Ployez as my go-to Champagne, but this particular wine is SINGING. I honestly want to hold one in storage for another 10 years and see where it goes.”
    • 2017 Arnaud Lambert Saumur "Clos de l'Etoile.” “Such a fabulous producer in Loire, and I don’t feel like enough exposure in our city is given to the wonderful red wines ofthis region. I could honestly go the rest of my life with just drinking the red wines from Saumur and Chinon.”
    • 2017 Von Winning Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trocken. “I feel like if you ask any sommelier what their favorite white wine is, they will all say Riesling. But there is a reason for that. The complexity of this particular one is just top tier. One you can sip on for hours and the only time you will be disappointed is when you pour out the last drop.”

    Why Long Point? Brennan says that owners Jason and Laurie Eubanks are longtime residents of the Spring Branch neighborhood and wanted to open a wine bar that was both close to home and the kind of place they’d want to go themselves. A deep wine list with heavy emphasis on the Old World, older vintages, friendly and knowledgeable service, great glassware, reasonable pricing, and a casual environment were all important details. Equally important was that The Library be a comfortable and welcoming neighborhood spot for Spring Branch locals who wanted a great glass of wine, regardless of price point.

    Long Point has very good visibility for almost every Spring Branch resident. New restaurants are popping up with some regularity that are also driving people to Long Point who may have previously gone to other neighborhoods for a night out.

    When you leave make sure you pop in a few doors down to Loose Cannon and say hello to little Bobbie McGee, the bar kitty, and have a frozen Pina Colada or any other of your favorite Tiki drinks. It’s an old school bar that I wish was next door to our house.

    Loose Cannon bar catStop by Loose Cannon to say hi to Bobbie McGee.Photo by Chris Shepherd

    -----

    What’s other hidden gems should our Wine Guy visit? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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