what's eric eating episodes 429 and 430

Rising star Houston chef dishes on River Oaks' buzzy new supper club

On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tim Reading joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Leo’s River Oaks. Open since October, Leo’s is the companion fine dining restaurant to the recently-reopened River Oaks Theatre.

The conversation begins with Reading discussing his career as a chef at Italian restaurants Boston. Ready for a change of pace, he moved to Houston and began working for Hugo Ortega at Caracol. He then went on to open Ixím, a Mexican restaurant in Bravery Chef Hall that earned praise from Texas Monthly. Prior to joining Leo’s, he served as chef de cuisine at Chris Shepherd’s GJ Tavern.

All those experiences are reflected in Leo’s menu. While the focus is on steakhouse fare such as lobster bisque, Caesar salad, and different cuts of steak, diners will also find agnolotti, roast chicken, and lobster Thermidor. Sandler asks Reading to elaborate on the decision to have such a wide-ranging menu.

“I think it’s important for me as a chef not to make just what I want to make. I really wanted to make sure anyone could come in and choose what kind of experience,” he says. “If they want to come in for a steak, have the Caesar and a dry-aged [steak]. If you’re a foodie and want to try something different, our octopus is fantastic, the bouillabaisse is really good. I wanted to create a menu that turns into the guests’ menu. They can interpret how they want to have their evening.”

Listen to the full episode to hear the chef discuss why he put lobster Thermidor on the menu. He also talks about his entertaining social media presence.

In another recent episode, Sandler discusses his visit to Medium Rare with co-host Mary Clarkson. Jokingly referred to as the “Raising Canes of steak frites,” the Washington, D.C.-based restaurant only serves a $33, two-course menu of salad and two servings of sirloin steak with french fries. The affordable price point and included second serving make it a welcome alternative to bar steak nights and other casual options, Sandler opines.

Photo by Andrew Hemingway

Leo's River Oaks serves steaks, seafood, and more.

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podcasts interview news-you-can-eat openings

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.