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    what's eric eating episodes 429 and 430

    Rising star Houston chef dishes on River Oaks' buzzy new supper club

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 17, 2024 | 6:00 am

    On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tim Reading joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Leo’s River Oaks. Open since October, Leo’s is the companion fine dining restaurant to the recently-reopened River Oaks Theatre.



    The conversation begins with Reading discussing his career as a chef at Italian restaurants Boston. Ready for a change of pace, he moved to Houston and began working for Hugo Ortega at Caracol. He then went on to open Ixím, a Mexican restaurant in Bravery Chef Hall that earned praise from Texas Monthly. Prior to joining Leo’s, he served as chef de cuisine at Chris Shepherd’s GJ Tavern.

    All those experiences are reflected in Leo’s menu. While the focus is on steakhouse fare such as lobster bisque, Caesar salad, and different cuts of steak, diners will also find agnolotti, roast chicken, and lobster Thermidor. Sandler asks Reading to elaborate on the decision to have such a wide-ranging menu.

    “I think it’s important for me as a chef not to make just what I want to make. I really wanted to make sure anyone could come in and choose what kind of experience,” he says. “If they want to come in for a steak, have the Caesar and a dry-aged [steak]. If you’re a foodie and want to try something different, our octopus is fantastic, the bouillabaisse is really good. I wanted to create a menu that turns into the guests’ menu. They can interpret how they want to have their evening.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear the chef discuss why he put lobster Thermidor on the menu. He also talks about his entertaining social media presence.



    In another recent episode, Sandler discusses his visit to Medium Rare with co-host Mary Clarkson. Jokingly referred to as the “Raising Canes of steak frites,” the Washington, D.C.-based restaurant only serves a $33, two-course menu of salad and two servings of sirloin steak with french fries. The affordable price point and included second serving make it a welcome alternative to bar steak nights and other casual options, Sandler opines.

    Leo's River Oaks

    Photo by Andrew Hemingway

    Leo's River Oaks serves steaks, seafood, and more.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    where there's smoke

    Houston's only Michelin-recognized Tex-Mex restaurant now open in Bellaire

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 22, 2025 | 11:59 am
    Candente brisket nachos
    Photo by Duc Hoang
    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

    It didn’t take Sambrook Hospitality Group long to turn Mandito’s into Candente. First announced in September, the restaurant’s second location officially opens today, Monday, December 22, at 5101 Bellaire Blvd.

    Speaking on a November episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Sambrooks Hospitality founder Michael Sambrooks explained that, as a Bellaire resident, he saw an opportunity to open a restaurant close to home.

    “It was a combination of, this location became available, and we liked the market. I think Bellaire is underserved. As far as Tex-Mex options, I think it’s limited,” he says. “We always struggle with where’s somewhere we can grab a bite that’s five minutes away as opposed to driving to another part of town. I think Candente is that solution. I think it’s going to be pretty well received.”

    In terms of design, the restaurant replicates many of the same elements as the original Montrose location that opened in 2019, such as its copper-topped tables and yellow, orange, and maroon accents. Diners will note a mural by local artist Franky Cardona along one wall. Overall, the restaurant seats 125 in its dining room, 10 at its bar, and 24 on an outdoor patio.

    While the location is new, the menu is the same. That means the same wood-fired fajitas, brisket enchiladas, nachos, birria tacos, and other fare that helped it achieve a “Recommended” designation in the Michelin Guide for Texas — the only Tex-Mex restaurant in Houston to make the prestigious guide. Pair them with margaritas (both shaken and frozen), as well as agave-based cocktails such as the paloma and ranch water, beers, and non-alcoholic options.

    Sambrooks Hospitality also operates The Pit Room, the barbecue joint with locations in Montrose and Memorial City that earned a Bib Gourmand designation.

    “It’s a privilege to open in Bellaire and get to know and serve a new clientele,” Sambrooks said in a statement. “We’re excited to introduce our style of authentic, handcrafted Tex-Mex that has made us a Houston dining staple.”

    Candente will be open for lunch and dinner during the week beginning at 11 am. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday beginning at 10 am.

    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.

    Candente brisket nachos
    Photo by Duc Hoang
    Don't miss the brisket nachos at Candente.
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