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    chris loves latuli

    Chris Shepherd reveals his favorite bites and sips at new Memorial restaurant

    Chris Shepherd
    Sep 3, 2025 | 4:00 pm

    This summer, a restaurant I’ve been waiting on for a long time finally opened its doors — and man, it was worth the wait. Latuli is here, and after a few visits, I can say it’s firing on all cylinders.

    Latuli is co-founded by Allison Knight and chef Bryan Caswell, and the space itself is gorgeous — warm, inviting, and just feels good to sit in. But what really makes me happy is seeing Bryan back in the kitchen, turning out new dishes while also reimagining some of his classics. The menu is designed so every visit feels like a new experience. Want impeccably-sourced seafood? Done. Craving pastas or steaks? Easy.

    Here’s what we had last time but I could go here ten more times and order completely different things and not feel like I missed anything. The menu is outstanding!!

    • Bread service: Parker House rolls and cornbread with jalapeño and roasted poblano jelly and whipped sorghum butter (don’t skip it).
    • Gulf shrimp spring rolls with hot-and-sweet sauce.
    • Greener Pastures chicken: Absolutely worth seeking out.
    • Wagyu barbacoa: Rich, tender, perfect.

    And we wrapped it up with mignardises — peanut butter truffles, macarons, and madeleines. A perfect ending

    The other thing that made me grin that night? Seeing Jeb Stuart running the wine program. I’ve known Jeb forever and have always loved his style, and the list he’s put together here just works. It feels like the food and wine are in conversation with each other — exactly how it should be.

    When I look at a wine list, I want thoughtful options at every price point. Jeb nailed it. You could start with a few bottles of bubbly for the table — you don’t have to go all-in on 2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (though you absolutely wouldn’t be wrong if you did). Try the 2018 Roebuck Blanc de Noir from Sussex, England — yes, I said sparkling wine from England — and watch your friends think you’re brilliant when it hits the table.

    For something crisp and racy with snapper carpaccio or mussels steamed in Shiner Bock, grab a bottle of Alphonse Mellot “La Moussière” Sancerre. Feeling a little richer in style ? The Hilt Estate Chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills is one of my favorites.

    If you’re ordering the Greener Pastures chicken (you should) and your buddy gets the flat iron steak with brown butter mushrooms, arugula, and pickled peppers (plus add the Batata Brava, trust me), go with Pinot Noir from Roar in Santa Lucia Highlands, Bruno Rocca Barbaresco, or — if you’re feeling bold — a Ridge Monte Bello Cab.

    This wine list is just right. It’s thoughtful, balanced, and makes every dish shine. I see a lot of future nights with my wife Lindsey and me sitting at the bar, exploring this menu and wine list, and just being happy that Bryan, Allison, and Jeb built this place for us to enjoy.

    I hope you love it as much as we do

    Latuli is now open in Memorial.

    Latuli exterior
    Photo by Frank Frances
    Latuli is now open in Memorial.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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