chris loves latuli

Chris Shepherd reveals his favorite bites and sips at new Memorial restaurant

This summer, a restaurant I’ve been waiting on for a long time finally opened its doors — and man, it was worth the wait. Latuli is here, and after a few visits, I can say it’s firing on all cylinders.

Latuli is co-founded by Allison Knight and chef Bryan Caswell, and the space itself is gorgeous — warm, inviting, and just feels good to sit in. But what really makes me happy is seeing Bryan back in the kitchen, turning out new dishes while also reimagining some of his classics. The menu is designed so every visit feels like a new experience. Want impeccably-sourced seafood? Done. Craving pastas or steaks? Easy.

Here’s what we had last time but I could go here ten more times and order completely different things and not feel like I missed anything. The menu is outstanding!!

Bread service: Parker House rolls and cornbread with jalapeño and roasted poblano jelly and whipped sorghum butter (don’t skip it).
Gulf shrimp spring rolls with hot-and-sweet sauce.
Greener Pastures chicken: Absolutely worth seeking out.
Wagyu barbacoa: Rich, tender, perfect.

And we wrapped it up with mignardises — peanut butter truffles, macarons, and madeleines. A perfect ending

The other thing that made me grin that night? Seeing Jeb Stuart running the wine program. I’ve known Jeb forever and have always loved his style, and the list he’s put together here just works. It feels like the food and wine are in conversation with each other — exactly how it should be.

When I look at a wine list, I want thoughtful options at every price point. Jeb nailed it. You could start with a few bottles of bubbly for the table — you don’t have to go all-in on 2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (though you absolutely wouldn’t be wrong if you did). Try the 2018 Roebuck Blanc de Noir from Sussex, England — yes, I said sparkling wine from England — and watch your friends think you’re brilliant when it hits the table.

For something crisp and racy with snapper carpaccio or mussels steamed in Shiner Bock, grab a bottle of Alphonse Mellot “La Moussière” Sancerre. Feeling a little richer in style ? The Hilt Estate Chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills is one of my favorites.

If you’re ordering the Greener Pastures chicken (you should) and your buddy gets the flat iron steak with brown butter mushrooms, arugula, and pickled peppers (plus add the Batata Brava, trust me), go with Pinot Noir from Roar in Santa Lucia Highlands, Bruno Rocca Barbaresco, or — if you’re feeling bold — a Ridge Monte Bello Cab.

This wine list is just right. It’s thoughtful, balanced, and makes every dish shine. I see a lot of future nights with my wife Lindsey and me sitting at the bar, exploring this menu and wine list, and just being happy that Bryan, Allison, and Jeb built this place for us to enjoy.

I hope you love it as much as we do

Latuli is now open in Memorial.

Photo by Frank Frances

Latuli is now open in Memorial.

news-you-can-eat wine

Houston's smallest restaurant?

Michelin-recognized Houston sushi chef fires up 4-seat Japanese skewer spot

Courtesy of Sip & Skewer

Diners sit in front of chefs cooking on a grill.

The team behind one of Houston’s Michelin-recognized sushi restaurants is opening an intimate new izakaya. Sip & Skewer is the newest concept from Hidden Omakase owner Tuan Tran and chef Marcos Juarez.

Opening Friday, February 13, Sip & Skewer is a four-seat restaurant devoted to skewered meats that’s located within Sushi by Hidden, the group’s affordable omakase restaurant in Rice Village. At Sip & Skewer, diners sit across from the chefs as they cook a 10-course, $90 meal on a Japanese binchotan grill.

“Sip & Skewer is small, loud, and intentional. The kind of hidden experience you’d find in Tokyo,” Tran said. “And with Chef Marcos guiding the team at Sushi by Hidden, this space is getting new energy from every angle.”

A four-seat restaurant within a 10-seat restaurant might seem kind of superfluous, but Tran explains that it’s part of a larger plan for his group of restaurants, which also includes West U. hand roll restaurant Norigami. It also builds on the success of Hidden Omakase, the Galleria-area sushi counter that earned a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide.

“Sip & Skewer is part of a larger vision. It’s designed as a stepping stone toward our next concept, Kōri, a new hand roll and craft cocktail bar opening in the Heights. Our plan is to open Sip & Skewer directly next to our hand roll spot, creating a small alley of Japanese concepts that feed into one another,” Tran explains.

“This allows us to build awareness, train our team in a new format, and introduce guests to Japanese charcoal grilling in a very personal way before we scale the idea into a larger setting with Kōri. The four-seat format keeps overhead extremely low while serving as a live test kitchen and brand builder for what’s coming next,” he adds.

On a related note, Juarez and the other chefs at Hidden Omakase are dividing their time between all three restaurants. Tuam explains that it’s a deliberate strategy to ensure a consistent customer experience.

“The same team that works Michelin-recognized omakase service also runs the grill here, which keeps quality and execution consistent while allowing the chefs a creative outlet in a very different format,” Tran said. “Because Sip & Skewer is only four seats and reservations only, it does not require a dedicated full-time staff. It’s an extension of the team rather than a separate operation.”