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    strike up the band

    Inventive new Heights restaurant blends European flavors with Texas traditions

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 16, 2024 | 10:40 am

    Houston has a lot of restaurants, but none of them are quite like Blue Tuba. The restaurant, which is opening soon in the former Harold’s in the Heights space on 19th St., will bring a fresh perspective by blending European and Texan culinary traditions.

    Blue Tuba exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Blue Tuba is opening soon in the Heights.

    Before diving in to the menu, a bit of background. Blue Tuba owners Vlado Kolenic and Giga Leszayova come to Houston via New York, where they operated an Italian restaurant called Bettola. Prior to entering the restaurant business, Kolenic worked for years as a musician and composer — that’s him playing bass on ‘80s classic “Somebody’s Watching Me” — who had a successful career in Europe as well as in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. He became a professional chef when he met Leszayova, who worked as a manager at restaurants around New York.

    After surviving the pandemic in New York, they decided to move to Texas. They quickly fell in love with Houston and saw an opportunity to open a new restaurant, but it took awhile to find the right space.

    “Nobody gave us a chance. We lost three spaces, because they gave it to groups,” Kolenic tells CultureMap. “Except Alli [Jarrett, the owner of Harold’s], she took a chance on us. She’s fantastic. She really helped us.”

    Jarrett explains that she appreciated the couple’s background it hospitality. “They’re delightful people. I think they really are the American dream,” she says.

    Part of what appealed to Jarrett is the couple’s vision for the restaurant’s cuisine. Blue Tuba will pull from a range of European influences — “everything from Scandinavia to Greece,” Kolenic says — and blend it with Texas traditions. For example, the menu includes a number of tacos, but they’ll be filled with options such as escargot, smoked kielbasa sausage, schnitzel, and octopus and served on “Slovak tortillas” made with a mixture of wheat and potato flour. Similarly, Blue Tuba’s take on fajitas will be made with sausage and shrimp that are wrapped in a crispy potato pancake instead of a flour tortilla. For another entree, the chef plans to bring Spain and Texas together with his take on paella, which will take some inspiration from jambalaya.

    “Texas paella, which is like a Spanish jambalaya, I’ll mix it with crawfish tails,” Kolenic says. “It’s like music. I improvise. In New York, we were always creating some different stuff.”

    Other dishes will be more classically European, such as a Hungarian-style chicken paprikash and traditional schnitzel made with chicken or pork tenderloin. For the self-taught chef, the goal is to focus on flavors rather than what’s considered traditional.

    “It’s food. It’s not rocket science,” he says. “You put love into it, it shows. My grandmother didn’t go to school, she cooked great. We just have fun.”

    Jarrett agrees. She thinks Houstonians are ready for something new.

    “I think Houston is saturated with restaurants, but I think what they’re doing is interesting. There’s no one doing that type of cuisine, taking European dishes and putting a Texas flair on them,” she says. “I think that coupled with their operating experience and hospitality, hopefully the neighborhood will support them.”

    Commercial real estate broker David Littwitz, who represented the couple in their search for a space, thinks the Heights will also appreciate the couple’s upbeat attitude.

    “The Heights has always struck me as a very wide ranging population,” Littwitz writes in an email. “They also seem to be a neighborhood that likes to ‘eat local.’ I believe the Heights will warmly embrace Vlado’s personality! Hopefully, they will also embrace his creative menu.”

    When he’s not in the kitchen, Kolenic plans to perform in the dining room with other musicians. The couple aspire to be the kind of place where chefs and artists hang out. They hope to cultivate a strong group of regulars.

    “In New York, we knew 70 percent of the people by their first name. That’s what I want here,” he says. Later, he adds, “When we came from Europe, we didn’t know anybody. It’s exciting. I’ve moved thirteen times in my life. To me, it’s no problem. I was born on Earth.”

    Blue Tuba will initially open for dinner. Brunch, which will feature Leszayova’s classic Czech recipe for traditional kolaches, and lunch will follow once the restaurant is more established.

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    water, water everywhere

    The quest for a Topo Chico replacement — we rate 9 sparkling waters

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Sparkling water taste
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    We purchased sparkling water at five stores across the inner loop.

    Topo Chico drinkers nationwide are in a bit of a tizzy. Coca-Cola, which acquired the cult-favorite sparkling mineral water in 2017, announced that the product will be unavailable for at least the next few months.

    CNN reports the shortage is due to “facility upgrades at the water source and production facilities in Mexico.”

    “We are now making further investments at the source to improve source stability and quality and enable increased production, requiring us to temporarily stop production,” Coca-Cola said in a letter to CNN.

    For Topo Chico fans, the shortage brings an obvious question. What should a person drink until the supply is restored? Or, what’s a permanent replacement that will avoid this issue altogether?

    After collecting suggestions from people via Instagram, I went to Spec’s and inner loop grocery stores to purchase nine varieties of sparkling water with one goal in mind — find something that’s similar enough to Topo Chico that it will earn a spot in my refrigerator.

    In the interests of science, I only included sparkling water brands that are similar in size (approximately 12-ounce bottles) and price (between $1 and $1.50 per bottle). Whenever possible, I purchased glass bottles instead of cans or plastic. Although many are available in flavors, I only purchased unflavored waters. All waters were chilled overnight in a refrigerator prior to tasting.

    Sparkling water taste test Each water was chilled overnight prior to tasting.Photo by Eric Sandler

    Not surprisingly, my top three choices came down to two other Mexican sparkling waters and a convincing dupe from H-E-B.

    Most Similar to Topo Chico

    Agua de Piedra
    Purchased from Spec’s (can also be found at La Michocana), this water from Nuevo Leon, Mexico can be found at several restaurants and coffee shops around town. It offers both strong carbonation and just enough saltiness to satisfy a Topo craving. As long as I can source it reliably, this will be my new house water.

    Mineragua
    Available at both Whole Foods Market and H-E-B, this water from Jarritos is almost as carbonated as Topo Chico. Its flavor profile is salty with a slight, citrus-style acidity. I prefer the flavor of Agua de Piedra, but others may like this more.

    1877 Mineral Water by H-E-B
    H-E-B’s house brand sparkling mineral water is sourced from Texas, in Mineral Wells. It has carbonation that persists from opening until finishing. Its slightly salty flavor will be welcomed by Topo Chico drinkers. Overall, it’s probably the best choice for more people, since it’s so readily available.

    Less Like Topo, but Still Tasty

    Rambler Sparkling Water
    This mineral water from Austin is available everywhere, including many restaurants and bars. Since it's only available in cans, its more mild carbonation doesn’t match Topo Chico’s; however, it has a lightly salty taste that makes it very refreshing. This is a good option for those who find Topo to be too fizzy.

    Tehuacan
    Purchased at Central Market, this water is sourced from springs within Citlaltépetl, Mexico’s highest mountain. The mountain’s volcanic rock gives the water a noticeable saltiness with a slightly sour taste. Although it wasn’t quite to my taste, its strong carbonation and distinct flavor could appeal to other Topo devotees.

    Private Selection Sparkling Mineral Water
    Available at Kroger, this water is neither as carbonated nor as salty as Topo Chico. Still, it has enough fizz and minerality to do in a pinch, particularly for people who prefer shopping at Kroger over other grocery stores.

    Your Mileage May Vary

    Richard’s Sparkling Rainwater
    Admittedly, a non-mineral water was unlikely to emerge as a favorite in this taste test. Since it’s made with filtered rainwater, Richard’s has a very clean taste and a mild level of carbonation.

    Saratoga Carbonated Spring Water
    Like Richard’s, this water is too lightly carbonated and too mildly flavored to satisfy a Topo craving. Still, it’s clean and refreshing, which could appeal to non-Topo drinkers.

    I’ve Had Better

    Liquid Death Mountain Water (Sparkling)
    Bland and flat-tasting, this water was the only one I wouldn’t purchase again. Maybe the flavored versions are better.

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