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    Where's Eric Eating

    CultureMap editor's 11 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in October

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 3, 2025 | 5:43 pm

    As both the city editor of CultureMap and the host of a bi-weekly podcast about Houston restaurants, I am one of those fortunate people whose literal job responsibilities include regularly dining at restaurants. Even though I’m not (and never have been) a food critic, it’s impossible to experience these places without forming some opinions about them.

    A couple of years ago, I began documenting my favorite dishes of the month on Instagram. I thought it would be helped for people who looked at my feed as they made their own decisions about which new restaurants to try. Since then, local influencers and food writers have put their own spin on the format.

    In addition to those posts, I’m going to share a few thoughts about my picks here on CultureMap. These are not reviews (at all); instead, they’re meant to be a quick summary of what I liked about each dish.

    My rules are simple. First, expect approximately 10 dishes each month. Critically, it’s only one dish per restaurant, and no restaurant will appear twice in the same month. Generally, they’ll be new restaurants in the Houston area, but I’ll always mix in an old favorite or two — and I reserve the right to include other parts of Texas when something particularly excellent grabs my attention.

    Finally, they’re not presented in any particular order. I do not have a No. 1 favorite dish. I like something about all of them.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in October.

    Bucatini Amatriciana at Paulie’s
    The Montrose staple makes all of its pastas in house, including this tube-shaped style that’s paired with an unapologetically spicy Amatriciana sauce. I add shrimp both for a little protein and to cut the heat a little. With the restaurant set to close December 31, I’ll certainly be back for another order as well as my other favorites on the menu.

    Fried squash blossom taco at Late August
    Part of the restaurant’s recently-introduced, seven-to-nine-course tasting menu, the crispy squash blossom is paired with lettuces from Lucille’s 1913’s farm and wrapped in a tortilla made with nixtamalized blue corn. Earthy, crunchy, and a little spicy, it’s a compelling combination of flavors that shows off chef executive chef Sergio Hidalgo’s skills that helped the Midtown restaurant retain its place in the Michelin Guide.

    Mezze at March
    Speaking of tasting menus at restaurants in the Michelin Guide, one-star March includes this impressive spread of small bites as part of its Levant menu. If it only included the freshly baked pita and caviar, that would have been enough, but the ability to mix and match the various bites — everything from a sweet-and-spicy muhamara to a tangy cheese and briny olives — added an interactive, almost playful element that matches the restaurant’s light-hearted approach to contemporary fine dining.

    Wonton soup, grilled beef spring roll, and Vietnamese egg rolls at Kim Son
    Before the restaurant closed on October 12, I put it one last to-go order that featured three items I’ve been enjoying for more than 30 years. Most of all, I’ll miss the wonton soup for being the perfect source of salty, savory comfort any time I felt a little under the weather or wanted to be warmed up on a cold day.

    Stone crab and cold seafood at Truluck’s
    Recently reopened after a two-month renovation, the Galleria-area steakhouse is once again serving its signature stone crab. While the days of all-you-can-eat are gone, the sweet, briny crab remains as compelling as ever.

    Barbecue tray at Redbird BBQ
    Admittedly, Port Neches isn’t in the Houston area, but this barbecue restaurant, ranked No. 4 in the state by Texas Monthly, is worth the 100-mile drive. Go for the hot honey ribs, the expertly-rendered brisket, the Persian-style koobideh sausage, the dinner rolls — well, all of it, really. And save a little room for banana pudding.

    Capellini with lobster at Coltivare
    While every visit to this Heights staple should always include its signature black pepper spaghetti, those who eschew its other pastas are missing out. The thing, delicate noodle allows the lobster’s natural sweetness to shine, as do the herbs and lemon in the sauce. Given the seasonal nature of most of Coltivare’s menu, go soon, since it might not be around much longer.

    Sea bass with frisee and smoked trout roe at Leo’s River Oaks
    Steaks are definitely the focus at this retro-styled establishment that won Best New Restaurant at the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, but chef Kirk Thompson and his team cook a nice piece of fish, too. Here, the seared sea bass gets a boost of umami from the smoked trout roe, while a citrus beurre blanc adds acidity to cut the rich flavors.

    Ginger-scallion lobster at Fung’s Kitchen
    Prompted by my mother to choose “something different” for dinner, we headed outside the Loop to this Southwest Houston staple. One of the lobster preparations is always a reliable choice, as the wok-seared meat is never rubbery or overcooked and the delicate sauce brightens up the meat. The half Peking duck we split could’ve also made this month’s list.

    Chicken Milanese at Maximo
    Since taking over the kitchen earlier this year, chef Adrian Torres has continued to showcase his vision for modern Mexican cuisine at this Rice Village restaurant. Crispy, juicy, and paired with a spicy green spaghetti, the chicken Milanese is comforting, familiar, and utterly craveable. No wonder Michelin included Maximo as one of the city’s five new Bib Gourmand recipients.

    Wild mushroom pizza at Murray’s Pizza & Wine
    Newly opened in Memorial, this new concept from the owners of Leaf & Grain offers an elevated approach to pizza centered around a sourdough crust that’s fermented for three days. For this pie, a mix of mushrooms are roasted in wine and butter that’s further enhanced with a bright salsa verde and a garlic-cream sauce. The intensely savory flavors make for a compelling bite, especially when paired with the restaurant’s frozen Negroni.

    For more Houston food coverage, follow @ericsandler and @culturemaphou on Instagram and subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Fung's Kitchen ginger scallion lobster

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Always get lobster at Fung's Kitchen.

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    visiting popup bagels

    A highly opinionated take on Houston's venture-backed new bagel shop

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 18, 2026 | 5:10 pm
    PopUp Bagels
    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels
    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    It’s hard to remember the last restaurant opening with as much fanfare as PopUp Bagels. Houstonians lined up in the heat for the bakery’s grand opening on Saturday, June 13.

    Shawn the Food Sheep included a glimpse of the line in his review below.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Shawn Singh (@shawnthefoodsheep)


    Eager to see what the fuss is all about, I stopped by around 10 am on Thursday, June 18. Thankfully, only about a dozen people stood in line ahead of me, and I had a bag of six bagels in less than 20 minutes.

    The frequency with which it boils and bakes it bagels sets PopUp Bagels apart from Houston’s traditional, mostly family-owned bagel shops. Instead of making large batches early in the morning that may get refreshed once or twice per day, PopUp Bagels is constantly boiling and baking smaller batches of a couple dozen bagels at a time throughout its operating hours. That's why customers will hear the cry of “hot bagels” echoing through the small, counter-service space every time more emerge from the oven.

    PopUp is different from traditional bagel shops in a couple of other important ways. First, the menu only list five varieties — plain, poppy, salt, sesame, and everything, which is topped with poppy seeds, salt, and sesame seeds. And, it only serves whole bagels — no slicing or toasting. The store’s motto of “grip, rip, and dip” explains how it expects customers to consume their bagels. Packaged lox are available, but diners have to assemble the sandwich themselves — either off-site or at one of the couple of cafe tables outside.

    PopUp Bagels also doesn’t sell individual bagels. Instead, diners must order a minimum of three bagels and a schmear — various cream cheese and butters are available — for $15. Six bagels and a schmear costs $24. A dozen bagels and two schmears is $46. As a point of comparison, the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire charges $25 for 13 bagels and two, 8-ounce schmears.

    So, how is it?

    Fresh, hot bagels are inherently superior to hours-old bagels. That’s a real advantage for PopUp Bagels. On my visit, the fresh-from-the-oven plain bagels were so hot that they needed a couple of minutes before we could "grip and rip" them.

    As for the bagels themselves, they certainly look the part. The outside is deeply caramelized with an even distribution of toppings that adhere well to the exterior.

    But the biggest shortcoming is texture. Bagels, obviously, are supposed to be chewy, but all six of the bagels that an ex-pat New Yorker friend and I ordered walked the line between chewy and underbaked. That may be deliberate, as softer bagels are easier to “grip and rip.”

    It's also possible that the bakery’s new employees are still dialing in procedures, and that a different day would yield bagels with a crispier texture. Colloquially, friends who have also visited the shop — both in Houston and other cities — disagreed with my assessment of the texture.

    The plain is just that, with a very mild flavor. Both the scallion cream cheese and salted butter had a pleasantly creamy texture and boosted the dining experience.

    Overall, PopUp is competitive with Houston’s best bagels. That’s promising, since Stripes — the equity growth firm that bought PopUp Bagels in 2023 — has announced plans to open more than 300 locations nationwide.

    But you won’t see me driving half an hour or standing in a long line to get another taste. Houston’s locally-owned bagel shops are more convenient, less expensive, and just as good.

    PopUp Bagels

    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels

    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

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