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    rumor no more

    Veteran Houston chef claims Menil restaurant for new all-day cafe

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 13, 2025 | 12:58 pm
    Claire Smith Houston chef

    Claire Smith is opening Chrôma in the former Bistro Menil space.

    Courtesy of Claire Smith

    The Menil Collection has found a new operator for its campus restaurant. Veteran Houston chef and restaurateur Claire Smith will open a new concept called Chrôma in early 2026.

    Located in the former Bistro Menil space (1512 Sul Ross), Chrôma (styled as the all-lowercase “chrôma” in press materials) will serve the global comfort fare that Smith prepared at her Houston restaurants Shade, Canopy, and Alice Blue. Smith will serve breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch at Chrôma, which is located steps from the Menil Collection, Houston's world-renowned art museum.

    The menu will feature dishes such as Indian-spiced chicken and waffles with tamarind maple syrup and cilantro butter, ratatouille with crispy polenta, and a Greek Caesar salad. Smith is also reviving dishes from her former concepts, such as soup trip from Shade, Canopy’s crab remoulade, and Alice Blue’s chicken flautas.

    Considered one of Houston’s earliest advocates for using local ingredients on her menu, Smith opened Daily Review Cafe, her first restaurant, in 1994. She followed it with Southern-inspired Shade, which debuted in the mid-aughts 19th Street in the Heights. It earned a devoted following for its Southern-inspired comfort food such as the signature shrimp and grits. In 2017, she transformed Shade into the European-inspired Alice Blue, with an assist from chef Jason Vaughan and beverage expert Sean Jensen — the duo who would go on to national acclaim for Nancy’s Hustle. She also operated all-day concept Canopy on Montrose Boulevard from 2009-2019.

    When Smith chose to close both Canopy and Alice Blue as their leases expired, some assumed she might be headed for retirement. That was never the case, she tells CultureMap.

    “Over the last year and a half I have been exploring options for a new space. When the opportunity arose to open a project on the Menil campus, I jumped on it,” she explains.

    “The Menil is a unique world renowned destination in Houston, in the Montrose that I have always loved. I am looking forward to Chrôma becoming a part of daily fabric of the neighborhood,” she adds.

    Houston architect Dillon Kyle is working with Smith on renovations to the Bistro Menil space. Plans include expanding the bar area to facilitate easier to-go service for both neighborhood diners and museum visitors who want to enjoy a meal on the Menil lawn.

    Chef Greg Martin opened Bistro Menil in 2014 with a menu of European-inspired comfort fare. The restaurant closed in June after more than 10 years in business.

    “I’m honored by the trust the Menil Collection has placed in me,” Smith said in a statement. “Chrôma will be a space that reflects the creativity and warmth of the Menil community — a place where visitors, neighbors, and art lovers can gather, dine, and connect.”

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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