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    Changes at Shade

    Beloved Heights restaurant is turning Blue as a modern bistro with dramatic new menu

    Eric Sandler
    May 12, 2017 | 10:14 am
    Alice Blue Shade Heights Claire Smith rendering
    A rendering of the future Alice Blue.
    Courtesy image

    Heights residents only have a few more days to get their fill of Shade's famous shrimp and grits. Owner Claire Smith announced this week that, after more than a dozen years, she's closing the beloved Southern restaurant on Mother's Day.

    But Smith, who opened in the Heights when the idea of the neighborhood becoming Houston's hottest dining destination would have seemed comical and grew the restaurant into one of the neighborhood's most reliable destinations, isn't abandoning 19th Street. Instead, she intends to replace Shade with a new concept called Alice Blue that will open in June.

    “We are proud of what we have accomplished with Shade, and it will always be a part of the history of 19th Street and dining in The Heights," Smith said in a statement. "The time is right for our dining experience to evolve. I am excited about what our team at Alice Blue will bring to the dynamic Heights restaurant scene."

    That team consists of a number of rising star chefs and sommeliers who should help Smith attract the next generation of Heights diners. Kent Domas will serve as the restaurant's new executive chef, after working in the same capacity at nearby Down House. Chef Jason Vaughan, who is returning to his hometown after working for Chicago's acclaimed Hogsalt Hospitality Group (Au Cheval, Gilt Bar, etc), will also consult on the menu.

    Domas isn't quite ready to list specific dishes, simply describing the menu as featuring "contemporary bistro cuisine with a nod to classical European cooking techniques." The restaurant's representative couldn't confirm exactly what that means, but she agreed that it represents a departure from the classic Southern fare that has been Shade's signature.

    Summer Sepeda comes to Alice Blue from One Fifth and will serve as the restaurant's general manager. Sean Jensen, who worked at both Shade and Hay Merchant before earning a CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Bartender of the Year nomination for his work as Public Service's general manager, will consult on the wine list and cocktail menu.

    Helping Alice Blue should be good practice for Jensen and Vaughn. Later this year, the duo will open a new restaurant called Nancy's Hustle in East Downtown.

    Smith tried a more mild revamp last year when she hired chef Kenten Marin to serve as Shade's executive chef, but the number of Southern-inspired restaurants in the immediate area (Southern Goods, Harold's, Bernadine's, etc) has made it hard to stand out. A new concept that's backed by a sophisticated cocktail program and an upgraded interior could be just the thing to ensure Alice Blue gets a fresh look from area diners, who this year alone have new options like Presidio, Field & Tides, Helen in the Heights, Star Fish, and King's BierHaus.

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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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