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    get the horchata berlinesa

    Bon Appetit names Michelin-recognized Houston cafe to best breakfast list

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 20, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Casaema restaurant food spread

    Casaema is once again in the national spotlight.

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Houston’s favorite new breakfast destination is basking in the national spotlight. Bon Appetit included Casaema (formerly known as Ema) as one of 14 restaurants in an article titled “These New Restaurants Are Waking Up the Breakfast Menu.”

    Open since March 2024, Casaema is an ode to Mexico City cafes created by chefs Stephanie Velasquez and Nicholas Veras along with their business partner, coffee roaster Marlén Mendoza. Anchored by Valesquez’s pastries — which won her Pastry Chef of the Year in the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards — and Vera’s savory dishes like the fan-favorite mushroom tetela and confit carrot taco, Casaema has already earned wide national acclaim, including a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide and a mention in the New York Times for its signature horchata berlinesa.

    “Inside an airy, modern dining room flooded with light from tall windows, chef Nicolas Vera and pastry chef Stephanie Velasquez reward patience with a satisfying menu focused on ingredients native to Mexico,” staff writer Sam Stone writes. Noting the line diners will likely endure on the weekends, Stone mentions the carrot taco, horchata berlinesa, and French toast.

    The magazine also included Austin’s Mercado Sin Nombre. Stone hails the restaurant’s dishes, which are made from heirloom Mexican corn that’s nixtamalized on-site.

    “One morning, you’ll fall in love with an egg sandwich doused with devilishly spicy hot sauce and cradled between two halves of an earthy blue corn masa biscuit. The next, it’ll be the standout masa dessert inspired by a Twinkie, filled with chili-tinged chocolate ganache, and finished with a swirl of toasted marshmallow,” he writes.

    The list also includes Comedor Nishi in La Jolla, California, Mémoire Cà Phê in Portland, Oregon, and Norm’s Diner in Detroit.

    “As American breakfast morphs and expands to encompass morning rituals the world over, our first meal of the day has become something we seek out and treat with deserved respect,” restaurant editor Elazar Sontag writes in the article’s introduction. Later, he continues, While the restaurants on this list aren’t above French toast and pancakes, they bring something new to even the most well-trodden dishes.”

    news-you-can-eatawardsthe-heights
    news/restaurants-bars
    popular

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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