One of the most tired tropes in the discourse around Houston restaurants is that the city doesn’t have any good sandwiches. The claim has long been easily refuted — consider Local Foods, Kenny & Ziggy’s, or any number of restaurants that serve banh mi.
When confronted with that reality, these critics usually assert that they’re missing the kind of cold cut sandwiches served primarily by Italian delis on the East Coast. Previously, the response to this sort of petty griping has been to encourage these displaced Yankees to embrace what Houston’s restaurants do well by eating more tacos or barbecue.
Recently, a group of restaurants have embraced sandwiches. Some are serving classic hoagies, while others have embraced the power of mortadella — a fancy, more flavorful kind of bologna — to create the sort of multi-layered sandwiches that even the most skeptical New Yorker could get behind.
In addition, restaurants are dipping into Houston’s multicultural culinary universe to put fresh spins on fried chicken sandwiches. Most of these new school sandwiches are served on breads that are baked in-house or sourced from high quality purveyors.
Broadly, these restaurants understand that a sandwich should eat like a composed entree with savory meats complimented by creamy or spicy spreads, crisp vegetables, and salty, melty cheeses. Taken together, these restaurants demonstrate that Houston’s sandwiches can hold their own.
Notably, most of these restaurants (and a couple of sandwich-obsessed wine bars) have opened since the end of 2022. This list also include an established restaurant that’s embraced the trend and a pop-up from a Tastemaker Awards nominee that’s worth seeking out.
Mimo
Sandwiches are at the heart of the lunch menu at this East End Italian restaurant. Picking a single favorite is tricky, as so many of chef Fernando Rios’s creations deserve attention. Still, give us the Italian Beef; made with slow roasted beef shoulder and topped with pickled vegetables, it’s the kicked up pot roast sandwich that’s pure comfort on a plate. Grilled mortadella with melty mozzarella and a credible East Coast-style hoagie are also worth considering, especially when paired with a selection from co-owner Mike Sammons’s affordable wine list.
LuLoo’s Day + Night
This restaurant in Garden Oaks unites the minds behind Blood Bros. BBQ with veteran pastry chef Alyssa Dole. The result are sandwiches that utilize meats smoked or cured by Blood Bros with breads that are freshly made on site. A classic BLT gets served on fresh milk bread, while another riffs on the muffaletta by combining mortadella, two kinds of salami, prosciutto, provolone, peppers, and olive spread on focaccia. Craft beer and cocktails keep patrons hydrated, and a selection of freshly baked desserts and pastries provide plenty of options to bring home.
Rado Market
Lucille’s chef-owner Chris Williams channels his love for Local Foods at this new restaurant that’s part of the Third Ward’s historic Eldorado Ballroom complex. Williams and his team have put their spin on a number of sandwich classics, such as a grilled cheese made with poblano pimento cheese, cheddar, and provolone that comes with a small cup of gumbo for dipping. Similarly, braised beef cheek shines in a Southern dip sandwich that also includes caramelized onions, pesto, and provolone. At breakfast, look for sandwiches made on the hot rolls created by Williams’s great-grandmother, noted culinary pioneer Lucille B. Smith.
Stuffed Belly
James Beard Award finalist Christine Ha shares her love for classic American sandwiches at this Spring Branch spot. Primarily designed for takeout via its drive-thru window, the restaurant offers selections such as a smash burger, patty melt, egg salad, and a gooey grilled cheese made with a combination of cheddar, provolone, and American. The real standout is a Sichuan-spiced fried chicken sandwich that matches a crispy, juicy piece of chicken thigh with a spicy Sichuan mayo that delivers a jolt of heat.
Fiora’s Bottle Shop
This newly opened wine bar in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development offers sandwiches alongside the more familiar snacks. Built around breads from Houston’s acclaimed Slow Dough Bread Co., the menu feature options such as deli-style turkey with tomato and Swiss; a veggie sandwich with tabbouleh, avocado spread, harissa, and artichoke hearts; and a funky boquerones with burrata and lemon aioli. Those with hearty appetites should consider The Goat, a 14-inch long baguette loaded with salami, mortadella, smoked ham, bacon, capocolla, two kinds of cheese, vegetables, and more. An extensive wine list will cater to almost any taste.
Narwhal Jousting Club
Ninja Ramen owner Christopher Huang and chef David Ramos (Better Luck Tomorrow) have teamed up to open this sandwich shop in the former Click Virtual Food Hall near Washington Ave. With essentially no seating (a patio is coming once the weather cools down), diners have the option of picking up to go or ordering via third party delivery apps. Narwhal’s take on a mortadella sandwich comes topped with American cheese, tomato, cole slaw, and fried chicken skin for extra crunch. Its fried chicken sandwich gets dunked in mole, which gives it a compelling sweet-savory balance. Currently, its only open for lunch, but dinner and late night hours could be coming soon.
ElRo Pizza and Crudo
Chef Terrence Gallivan’s new restaurant only has one sandwich on the menu, but it’s worthy of attention. ElRo’s Italian-style hoagie combines mortadella and coppa with provolone and a spicy giardinera on a housemade, sesame-seeded roll. While not technically a sandwich, the spicy tuna toast is a keto-friendly umami bomb.
“I think if you’re a pizza place you’ve got to have a sandwich on the menu,” Gallivan said on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast. “We have all these delicious meats. We’re making our own breads. Why not have a hoagie?”
Josephine’s Gulf Coast Tradition
Sandwiches are a core component of the offerings at this Midtown restaurant. That starts with a classic po’ boy — choose fried shrimp or fried oyster — served on French bread sourced from New Orleans’s Leidenheimer Baking Co. Chef Lucas McKinney pays homage to his Mississippi roots with the Biloxi Vancleave Special — essentially a crab cake sandwich that’s topped with American cheese and dressed like a po’ boy.
Padre’s Wine Shop + Bar
This spot in the Heights serves sandwiches alongside its extensive wine selection. Initially intended to be a daily panini special, the menu has expanded to include fried bologna with white balsamic aioli, a BLT made with pancetta, and a crab roll. Of course, the staff is ready to suggest pairing options for each sandwich.
PrimoHoagies
The Washington Avenue location of this Philadelphia favorite has been a destination for sandwich lovers since it opened in February. While the menu includes cheesesteaks and hot sandwiches, the menu’s strength is grounded in its hoagies that are served on a sesame seed roll such as the Italian (prosciutto, provolone, capicola, and salami) or the Diablos that are kicked up with extra spices. Those looking for a true taste of Philly may opt for sandwiches made with roast pork.
Leaf & Grain
This salad restaurant recently added sandwiches to its offerings. Served on either housemade sour dough or ciabatta from Slow Dough, they utilize the proteins and vegetables that power the restaurant’s salads. Options include an avocado turkey club dressed with a sun-dried tomato and black pepper aioli, a chicken pesto topped with mozzarella, and a chicken salad that gets kicked up with candied jalapenos.
B’Tween Sandwich Co.
Former Gatlin’s BBQ chef Michelle Wallace has been drawing crowds with her sandwich pop-up. Typically found at the Rice Village Farmers Market, Wallace’s menu varies, but it typically includes a fried chicken sandwich served on her signature biscuits, smoked meats on sourdough, and more. Earlier this summer, she put a Texas twist on an East Coast favorite with a smoked lobster roll topped with corn butter.
Photo by Ally Hardgrave
Find po' boys and a crab meat melt at Josephine's.
