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    Fire Starters

    Live-fire-loving LA chef duo opens Basque-style restaurant in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 22, 2023 | 6:15 pm
    Baso restaurant chefs Max Lappe and Jacques Varon

    Chefs Max Lappe and Jacques Varon lead Baso.

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    An innovative new restaurant has brought a fresh culinary perspective to the Heights. Baso has quietly opened its doors.

    Located next to local wine shop Reata Cellars (633a W. 19th St.), Baso describes itself as a Houston restaurant with a Basque personality that’s led by two chefs, Jacques Varon and Max Lappe ("baso" is the Basque word for "forest). The duo met in Los Angeles when they worked at Angler, the live-fire seafood restaurant created by star chef Joshua Skenes. Lappe’s resume includes a number of high-end Los Angeles-area restaurants, including Dunsmoor, Rustic Canyon, and Animal. Varon’s resume includes time at Inua, a restaurant in Tokyo founded by a former Noma chef that held two Michelin stars.

    As the chefs explain, they formed a fast friendship based on shared heritage — “you don’t find many handsome Mexican Jews in the industry,” Lappe quips — as well as shared interests in live-fire cooking and fermentation, among others. When Varon’s original partner Fernando Recio opted to take a position working for the hospitality group that operates Spanish fine dining restaurants BCN and MAD, Varon approached Lappe about moving to Texas.

    “It took too long for Fernando. I respect him for the time he gave. He needed something immediate. I couldn't provide it. It was sad to him go,” Varon says.

    “I’ve always known me and Jacques are compatible in terms of collaboration,” Lappe says. “It’s also a new restaurant, a new kitchen. It’s something that will evolve and be fun to put together.”

    Part of the compatibility stems from a shared passion about sourcing the best ingredients possible. All of Baso’s produce and most of its proteins come from Texas. The rare exceptions are certain items with a specific geographic pedigree like Manchego cheese from Spain or blue fin tuna from Japan. Lappe says he’s been particularly impressed by the beef and pork he’s found here. Both meats are on the menu in larger portions that are designed to be served as a shared entree.

    “We’re a Houston restaurant with a Basque philosophy. Almost 99 percent of our product touches the fire,” Varon explains.

    “We want to think of ourselves as Basque-inspired where we’re utilizing product that is local and doing as much in our power to do as little as possible,” Lappe says. “You get a perfect tomato. You spend hours kissing it on the fire to keep it perfect rather than masking it with other stuff. The style is putting as little on the plate as possible to make the product shine.”

    The menu begins with a section of Pinxtos, bar snack-style bites meant to be paired with beer, cider, or the Basque wine txakoli. One example is a guilda, a skewer typically made with olives, anchovies, and pickled peppers. Other dishes include boquerones with olive oil, potatoes with aioli, and gambas al ajilo (garlic shrimp).

    In addition to the shared entrees of pork, beef, or fish, the menu’s other two savory sections include raw items such as venison tartare, raw oysters, and caviar as well as a section titled “small” that consists of bread service and small vegetable plates. Specific dishes are likely to change as Lappe learns more about Texas and meets more purveyors.

    “We’re learning our own voice and personality. I think now that there’s a home this infant will grow into something,” Lappe says.

    It’s a sentiment his co-chef readily agrees with.

    “We’re two guys who’ve worked at really good restaurants who want to bring everything we’ve learned to the city, because Houston’s my home. I’m going to do everything I can to make Houston shine,” Varon adds.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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