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    space city cowboy rides again

    Veteran Houston chef steps in to EaDo barbecue joint

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2025 | 1:13 pm
    Arash Kharat J-Bar-M BBQ

    Arash Kharat is the new executive chef and pitmaster at J-Bar-M BBQ.

    Courtesy of J-Bar-M BBQ

    A veteran Houston chef has taken over the kitchen at J-Bar-M BBQ. Chef Arash Kharat began serving as the executive chef and pitmaster at the EaDo restaurant in April, he tells CultureMap.

    His path to J-Bar-M came via an unexpected source. After leaving Blood Bros. BBQ last year, Kharat had been bartending at Holler Brewing Co. While there, he ran into Houston Chronicle barbecue columnist J.C. Reid, who suggested he meet with J-Bar-M’s owner and management team. Having worked at both Beaver’s and Buffalo Bayou Brewing, Kharat decided he was ready to get back into barbecue.

    “It’s a beautiful space,” the chef says about J-Bar-M. “All the firepower they have in the pit room is awesome. There’s only a couple of spots in Houston that have this much equipment.”

    Kharat has plans for all that equipment — including four, 1,000-gallon smokers; two roasters that can be used for whole hog or chicken; and a live fire grill for items such as burgers and steaks. Look for items such as crawfish on Saturday, barbacoa on Sunday, and his award-winning fried chicken. Of course, he knows to keep his focus on the smoked meats.

    J-Bar-M BBQ trayKharat has focused on improving the barbecue at J-Bar-M.Courtesy of J-Bar-M BBQ

    “Little by little, I’ll start adding more and more,” Kharat says. “My main focus at the moment is getting all the barbecue to 100 percent. It was good, but now it will get even better.”

    In addition to his skills in the kitchen, Kharat also brings his outgoing personality. He’s been spending time in the dining room greeting customers.

    “You know me, I like to be in front of people talking, shooting the breeze,” he says. “They told me the previous guys would just stay in the pit room. I like touching tables. That’s what this place is all about.”

    Opened in 2021 by real estate developer John Toomey and his wife, Michelene Guseman Toomey, J-Bar-M occupies almost an entire city block near the intersection of Leeland and Emancipation. With an 8,000-square-foot dining room and a spacious, covered patio, it offers plenty of room for dining and special events. Texas Monthly included the restaurant on its 2023 list of the Top 25 New and Improved BBQ Joints in Texas.

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    what's on tap

    Dough-obsessed pizzeria picks River Oaks for first Houston location

    Eric Sandler
    May 22, 2025 | 6:10 pm
    Dough-obsessed pizzeria picks River Oaks for first Houston location
    Courtesy of Pie Tap

    A Dallas pizzeria known for its artisanal dough is coming to Houston. Pie Tap will open its first Bayou City outpost in June.

    Located next to Fielding’s River Oaks in the Novel Residences luxury apartment building, Pie Tap is an endeavor from Dallas restaurateur Rich Hicks and Italian chef Giovanni Mauro. The chef is responsible for the restaurant’s pizza dough, which uses a mother starter and a 96-hour fermentation process that uses natural yeast to achieve a good balance of crunch and chew.

    "Without great dough, you can't have great pizza," Mauro told CultureMap Dallas when the first location opened in 2016. "The idea that the crust is simply a vehicle for toppings is the wrong approach. There has to be a perfect balance of sauce and topping, but you have to have a commitment to the dough. If dough is everything it should be, the pizza is stellar."

    Using Italian flour and natural yeast are essential components of the dough’s flavor, Mauro added.

    "It's the kind of dough our great-grandparents used to eat," he says. "It's a very natural, slow process. We don't use any commercial yeasts. We started a 'mother dough' with a starter that's proprietary to us. It's a five-day process, an absolute minimum of 96 hours, from when we start to when we put the pizza on the plate."

    The restaurant uses that dough to create pizzas that include classics like a margherita, pepperoni, and veggie. Some of the more creative options include the Prosciutto (topped with dates, pistachio, arugula, cheese, and balsamic) and the Salami (calabrese salami, fennel sausage, pepperoni, bacon, and mozzarella).

    In addition to pizza, the restaurant touts its rotisserie chicken, which is served both as a half bird with mashed cauliflower and vegetables and as part of sandwiches, pastas, and salads. Other pastas include pappardelle bolognese, ricotta gnocchi, and the on-trend rigatoni in spicy vodka sauce.

    Having covered “pie,” let’s turn to the “tap” portion of the restaurant’s name. The bar program starts with 30 beers and wines on tap. They’re joined by cocktails, more wines by-the-glass, and non-alcoholic options. Taken together, it’s a compelling package that earned Best New Restaurant in the 2017 CultureMap Dallas Tastemaker Awards.

    “Our talented and dedicated team has been anxiously awaiting this exciting entrance to the Houston market as it is the epitome of all things interesting in food and culture and one of the friendliest and most diverse cities in the U.S. When it comes to our brand, if it is not exceptional, it is unacceptable,” Hicks said in a statement. “We are proud that we have one of the most clean, healthy, and delicious artisan pizzas you can enjoy out there because it has no preservatives, fillers, or additives.”

    Pie Tap will be open for lunch, dinner, happy hour, and weekend brunch.

    Pie Tap Pizza
      

    Courtesy of Pie Tap

    That's what crust looks like when its dough is fermented for 96 hours.

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